My 1994 M6 coupe Restoration Thread...Pic Heavy
#22
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
My GM service manuals came in yesterday. I'm already reading up on it. I'll post it up once I figure it out. But I'm pretty sure it had to do with the door switch. If the door switch doesn't work properly it keeps the hatch switch on the driver door from working. It's all tied in.
#23
My GM service manuals came in yesterday. I'm already reading up on it. I'll post it up once I figure it out. But I'm pretty sure it had to do with the door switch. If the door switch doesn't work properly it keeps the hatch switch on the driver door from working. It's all tied in.
#24
Just kept flicking my driver door switch till the dome lights came on, and the hatch switch worked. So it's confirmed. How can we ever doubt the FSM manual? So I ordered 1 new door switch... ;-)
#25
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I also did this about 100 times and nothing. I may just order a new one. Passenger side works of course and all dome lights come on. When I turn my key to unlock my Door all dome lights come on. But if I open my door, nothing.
#26
Same here! Had to flick the door switch 100 times till it triggered the dome lights.
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
More goodies and progress.
Installed new nose emblem.
New check valve and map connector. My a/c now works all the time!!!
Goodies!
Now I know why I have been dying of heat and been hearing loud noises. I temporarily repaired this with a zip tie and duct tape. Going to order her boot, leather shift boot, new console cover and a short shifter. I'll do it all at once.
1994 Bluetooth???
First time removing shift console.
Found this under coolant overfill.
Installed new nose emblem.
New check valve and map connector. My a/c now works all the time!!!
Goodies!
Now I know why I have been dying of heat and been hearing loud noises. I temporarily repaired this with a zip tie and duct tape. Going to order her boot, leather shift boot, new console cover and a short shifter. I'll do it all at once.
1994 Bluetooth???
First time removing shift console.
Found this under coolant overfill.
#29
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Here's a video of me running the a/c on then off. Engine idles better too. It would idle like total crap when the a/c was on. It seemed to go away now that I replaced the check valve and the map connector. Not sure if it's related. Well, I also replaced the egr valve and most small vacuum hoses.
#30
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Talk about nickel and diming myself to death. Looked at the bank account the other day and it was almost dangerously low $10 here, $30 there. Damn my money went down quick with this project! Waiting for next payday.
But in the meantime, my sparkplug wires, diff fluid, posi additive and the other headlight gear repair kit came in today. So that will keep me busy until next payday. I am dreading the sparkplug wire replacement.
Next on the list is a trip to my local Corvette shop to have the front lifted up a few inches. Then when payday comes I will be ordering a rubber lower boot for the shifter, leather upper boot, console cover and ZF Doctor's short shifter.
But in the meantime, my sparkplug wires, diff fluid, posi additive and the other headlight gear repair kit came in today. So that will keep me busy until next payday. I am dreading the sparkplug wire replacement.
Next on the list is a trip to my local Corvette shop to have the front lifted up a few inches. Then when payday comes I will be ordering a rubber lower boot for the shifter, leather upper boot, console cover and ZF Doctor's short shifter.
#32
Safety Car
I love how fast you are attacking the small details. This might last 3 months or so then your ride will be squared away. I wish I could motivate a couple of friends of mine to do the same, but they aren't the do-er type.
My 95 had a new opti and new wires, but original plugs. The previous owner said he spent so much money when the water pump and radiator went out, that he didn't want to pay the mechanic the extra 1.5 hours to do the plugs. I did that and the car really ran a lot better after word- especially over 5000 rpm.
My 95 had a new opti and new wires, but original plugs. The previous owner said he spent so much money when the water pump and radiator went out, that he didn't want to pay the mechanic the extra 1.5 hours to do the plugs. I did that and the car really ran a lot better after word- especially over 5000 rpm.
#33
Racer
Here's a video of me running the a/c on then off. Engine idles better too. It would idle like total crap when the a/c was on. It seemed to go away now that I replaced the check valve and the map connector. Not sure if it's related. Well, I also replaced the egr valve and most small vacuum hoses.
#35
Instructor
Your finding out that these cars are expensive to restore I bet. I made the mistake of doing two cars at once. I assume the engine will not be rebuilt? I guess if it is not broke don't fix it. Mine has 108k miles on it and when I found out about the Camaro block I had, I decided to tear everything apart. Anyway if it were me I'd replace all the sensors and switches that the PCM reads along with the plug wires, plugs and hoses etc. You probably have this planned anyway. I will follow along and if I can help along the way I will , like you've seen I had mine stripped down to almost nothing. I found out also that things go back in order, I've had to remove items after installing them to make room for something else.
Good luck and have fun. If you need to break things loose under the hood, don't break loose any A/C items. I had my motor apart with just the block in the car, no crank or pistons and still had all the A/C lines on. Had to break them eventually.
Also all the interior pieces are plastic as you know, be careful. Sorry for being long winded.
Good luck and have fun. If you need to break things loose under the hood, don't break loose any A/C items. I had my motor apart with just the block in the car, no crank or pistons and still had all the A/C lines on. Had to break them eventually.
Also all the interior pieces are plastic as you know, be careful. Sorry for being long winded.
#36
Instructor
Here's the door switch. The metal ring that the screws screw into is on the inside. I believe if you unscrew one screw, turn the switch then put the screw in to hold the ring in place, then pull the switch and plug out you'll be fine. I just reached in because my panel is off.
You'll notice that the center of that switch pulls out for adjustment.
You'll notice that the center of that switch pulls out for adjustment.
#37
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Here's the door switch. The metal ring that the screws screw into is on the inside. I believe if you unscrew one screw, turn the switch then put the screw in to hold the ring in place, then pull the switch and plug out you'll be fine. I just reached in because my panel is off.
You'll notice that the center of that switch pulls out for adjustment.
You'll notice that the center of that switch pulls out for adjustment.
#39
Interior is not too bad. Leather seats are cracked of course. All the carpet is very decent. No holes or stains anywhere. Glass is all good. Needs weather strip here and there. Outdoor window sweeps are shot. But everything works, except the trunk release on my driver door. I'll be diagnosing that tomorrow.
Btw, what patch are you talking about ?
Btw, what patch are you talking about ?