Synthetic blend oil why do people use it?
04-22-2015, 02:02 AM
#21
Melting Slicks
I've had 4 cars from the 1980s.
All on synthetic. No leaks.
Two of which were over 100,000 miles when I got the cars. The vette's had regular stints up to 150 mph, over the last 3 years, and more than a few 1/4 mile passes. It has 152,000 on it, and had 140,000 even when I got it. No oil leaks what so ever. Now I did replace intake gaskets, when I put my edelbrock base on, (it was leaking coolant, at the china wall.. but no oil leaks)
My 86 Z-28 had 73,000 on it when I got it. It has 84,000 on it now..no leaks. Again Synthetic. This engine is getting removed, from the Z, making room for a big block stroker, for curiosity sake I'll tear it down, but I'm pretty sure it's going to look like every other engine I've owned for years, and torn down later to part out. It'll be spotless inside, like everything else I run synthetic in.
88 GMC Van, 104,000 when I got it...no leaks, at 125,000 now.
85 Camaro 2.8 V6 90,000 when I got it, it had 130,000 when I sold it. Again put synthetic in it, and never had a lick of problem with oil leaks.
The viscosity of Synthetic oil, is exactly the same as a given weight of conventional oil. That's exactly what the whole weight of oil measures in the first place. The difference is, synthetic won't turn to sludge in short order. It's resistance to viscosity breakdown, and that it doesn't turn to sludge.
Dino oil, turns to sludge, which makes it harder to get past blown out and worn seals.
Synthetic doesn't.
You already had a leak if something's leaking with synthetic.
That site you linked is so full of bupkiss that I'm amazed someone put those old wives tales together in the first place.
Next it'll be saying how important Zinc is to have in your oil
Know what causes oil leaks in reality? Poor maintenance and wear and tear.
By the way, even dino sludge is radically different chemically to what the engine came out with even in cars ten years ago, let alone the 25+ of 1980s and older cars.
Synthetic is no harder on seals than any other oil is. If anything it's actually better since A it runs cooler and B, works the pump less and thus has lower pressure required to run through the engine.
The ONLY and I do mean the ONLY reason to run dino sludge through your car is, if you're a tightwad. Cheap has it's place, don't get me wrong..but imo engines isn't that place. As the old saying goes. You can have, Cheap, Reliable, or Fast, and can only pick two.
All on synthetic. No leaks.
Two of which were over 100,000 miles when I got the cars. The vette's had regular stints up to 150 mph, over the last 3 years, and more than a few 1/4 mile passes. It has 152,000 on it, and had 140,000 even when I got it. No oil leaks what so ever. Now I did replace intake gaskets, when I put my edelbrock base on, (it was leaking coolant, at the china wall.. but no oil leaks)
My 86 Z-28 had 73,000 on it when I got it. It has 84,000 on it now..no leaks. Again Synthetic. This engine is getting removed, from the Z, making room for a big block stroker, for curiosity sake I'll tear it down, but I'm pretty sure it's going to look like every other engine I've owned for years, and torn down later to part out. It'll be spotless inside, like everything else I run synthetic in.
88 GMC Van, 104,000 when I got it...no leaks, at 125,000 now.
85 Camaro 2.8 V6 90,000 when I got it, it had 130,000 when I sold it. Again put synthetic in it, and never had a lick of problem with oil leaks.
The viscosity of Synthetic oil, is exactly the same as a given weight of conventional oil. That's exactly what the whole weight of oil measures in the first place. The difference is, synthetic won't turn to sludge in short order. It's resistance to viscosity breakdown, and that it doesn't turn to sludge.
Dino oil, turns to sludge, which makes it harder to get past blown out and worn seals.
Synthetic doesn't.
You already had a leak if something's leaking with synthetic.
That site you linked is so full of bupkiss that I'm amazed someone put those old wives tales together in the first place.
Next it'll be saying how important Zinc is to have in your oil
Know what causes oil leaks in reality? Poor maintenance and wear and tear.
By the way, even dino sludge is radically different chemically to what the engine came out with even in cars ten years ago, let alone the 25+ of 1980s and older cars.
Synthetic is no harder on seals than any other oil is. If anything it's actually better since A it runs cooler and B, works the pump less and thus has lower pressure required to run through the engine.
The ONLY and I do mean the ONLY reason to run dino sludge through your car is, if you're a tightwad. Cheap has it's place, don't get me wrong..but imo engines isn't that place. As the old saying goes. You can have, Cheap, Reliable, or Fast, and can only pick two.
Last edited by MavsAK; 04-22-2015 at 02:14 AM.
04-22-2015, 08:40 AM
#22
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"Works the pump less.....lower pressure required"...
"Runs cooler".....why/how does it do that??
Synthetic is good stuff, but let's not give it magical powers it does not possess.
Last edited by rocco16; 04-22-2015 at 08:43 AM.
04-22-2015, 10:56 AM
#23
Burning Brakes
so much mis-information.......to answer the OP, people put synthetic blend in their cars because that is what is commonly available. most synthetics on the shelf are blends. None are 100% synthetic, they all have petroleum based additive packages. Most use non-synthetic carrier oil. there is no legal definition of synthetic, and even Mobil-1 is not fully syntheric.
and not compatible with "old" seals? where do people come up with this stuff? synthesized oil versus refined oil has nothing to do with seal compatibility. period.
you do know synthetic oil has been around for nearly a hundred years? has been used in commercial vehicles, fleets, and gov. since the 40's....
marketing is such a powerful tool...
and not compatible with "old" seals? where do people come up with this stuff? synthesized oil versus refined oil has nothing to do with seal compatibility. period.
you do know synthetic oil has been around for nearly a hundred years? has been used in commercial vehicles, fleets, and gov. since the 40's....
marketing is such a powerful tool...
04-22-2015, 12:25 PM
#24
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Using blend is all about $$$, no other reason. In a beater car, I would use blend or dino oil exclusively and change at strict intervals. I prefer to stick with full synthetics otherwise.
04-24-2015, 12:08 AM
#25
Melting Slicks
Less friction generates less heat, and since it flows easier, it also will move through the engine quicker at a given pressure than dino sludge.
Nothing magical about it.
Last edited by MavsAK; 04-24-2015 at 12:11 AM.
04-26-2015, 12:11 PM
#26
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Oil discussion is always a can of worms.... Are the molecules larger or smaller in synthetic oil.
Read this: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
Read this: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
04-28-2015, 12:38 AM
#27
Racer
I've had 4 cars from the 1980s.
All on synthetic. No leaks.
Two of which were over 100,000 miles when I got the cars. The vette's had regular stints up to 150 mph, over the last 3 years, and more than a few 1/4 mile passes. It has 152,000 on it, and had 140,000 even when I got it. No oil leaks what so ever. Now I did replace intake gaskets, when I put my edelbrock base on, (it was leaking coolant, at the china wall.. but no oil leaks)
My 86 Z-28 had 73,000 on it when I got it. It has 84,000 on it now..no leaks. Again Synthetic. This engine is getting removed, from the Z, making room for a big block stroker, for curiosity sake I'll tear it down, but I'm pretty sure it's going to look like every other engine I've owned for years, and torn down later to part out. It'll be spotless inside, like everything else I run synthetic in.
88 GMC Van, 104,000 when I got it...no leaks, at 125,000 now.
85 Camaro 2.8 V6 90,000 when I got it, it had 130,000 when I sold it. Again put synthetic in it, and never had a lick of problem with oil leaks.
The viscosity of Synthetic oil, is exactly the same as a given weight of conventional oil. That's exactly what the whole weight of oil measures in the first place. The difference is, synthetic won't turn to sludge in short order. It's resistance to viscosity breakdown, and that it doesn't turn to sludge.
Dino oil, turns to sludge, which makes it harder to get past blown out and worn seals.
Synthetic doesn't.
You already had a leak if something's leaking with synthetic.
That site you linked is so full of bupkiss that I'm amazed someone put those old wives tales together in the first place.
Next it'll be saying how important Zinc is to have in your oil
Know what causes oil leaks in reality? Poor maintenance and wear and tear.
By the way, even dino sludge is radically different chemically to what the engine came out with even in cars ten years ago, let alone the 25+ of 1980s and older cars.
Synthetic is no harder on seals than any other oil is. If anything it's actually better since A it runs cooler and B, works the pump less and thus has lower pressure required to run through the engine.
The ONLY and I do mean the ONLY reason to run dino sludge through your car is, if you're a tightwad. Cheap has it's place, don't get me wrong..but imo engines isn't that place. As the old saying goes. You can have, Cheap, Reliable, or Fast, and can only pick two.
All on synthetic. No leaks.
Two of which were over 100,000 miles when I got the cars. The vette's had regular stints up to 150 mph, over the last 3 years, and more than a few 1/4 mile passes. It has 152,000 on it, and had 140,000 even when I got it. No oil leaks what so ever. Now I did replace intake gaskets, when I put my edelbrock base on, (it was leaking coolant, at the china wall.. but no oil leaks)
My 86 Z-28 had 73,000 on it when I got it. It has 84,000 on it now..no leaks. Again Synthetic. This engine is getting removed, from the Z, making room for a big block stroker, for curiosity sake I'll tear it down, but I'm pretty sure it's going to look like every other engine I've owned for years, and torn down later to part out. It'll be spotless inside, like everything else I run synthetic in.
88 GMC Van, 104,000 when I got it...no leaks, at 125,000 now.
85 Camaro 2.8 V6 90,000 when I got it, it had 130,000 when I sold it. Again put synthetic in it, and never had a lick of problem with oil leaks.
The viscosity of Synthetic oil, is exactly the same as a given weight of conventional oil. That's exactly what the whole weight of oil measures in the first place. The difference is, synthetic won't turn to sludge in short order. It's resistance to viscosity breakdown, and that it doesn't turn to sludge.
Dino oil, turns to sludge, which makes it harder to get past blown out and worn seals.
Synthetic doesn't.
You already had a leak if something's leaking with synthetic.
That site you linked is so full of bupkiss that I'm amazed someone put those old wives tales together in the first place.
Next it'll be saying how important Zinc is to have in your oil
Know what causes oil leaks in reality? Poor maintenance and wear and tear.
By the way, even dino sludge is radically different chemically to what the engine came out with even in cars ten years ago, let alone the 25+ of 1980s and older cars.
Synthetic is no harder on seals than any other oil is. If anything it's actually better since A it runs cooler and B, works the pump less and thus has lower pressure required to run through the engine.
The ONLY and I do mean the ONLY reason to run dino sludge through your car is, if you're a tightwad. Cheap has it's place, don't get me wrong..but imo engines isn't that place. As the old saying goes. You can have, Cheap, Reliable, or Fast, and can only pick two.
If you have, say, a ten year old Corvette (or for that matter, any car), with, say, 25K miles on it, should full synthetic Mobil1 oil be automatically changed once a year because of the of lack of driving allowing combustion contaminants to eat away at the engine's insides while it's sitting idle for several of months at a time?
Or, can it be left in the oil pan (or sump) indefinitely, regardless of time?
04-28-2015, 02:12 AM
#28
Melting Slicks
If I can leave them sitting for 30 years without killing them I don't see the need to change the oil all the time just because its sitting. Remember each time you change the oil your normally running the motor dry after the oil change. Do the math. Whats going to hurt it more. Changing it yearly scoring the motor from lack of oil each change or leaving it alone 
04-28-2015, 10:58 AM
#29
Racer
If I can leave them sitting for 30 years without killing them I don't see the need to change the oil all the time just because its sitting. Remember each time you change the oil your normally running the motor dry after the oil change. Do the math. Whats going to hurt it more. Changing it yearly scoring the motor from lack of oil each change or leaving it alone
04-28-2015, 11:34 AM
#30
Melting Slicks
OK. That I've heard and this issue doesn't address the question of synthetic oil break-down over time, but, to me, it seems that the most wear occurs after leaving your car sitting for a couple of weeks or longer and the starting it up dry after all the oil has gone to the sump (at least the LT1 has a cylinder pre-oiler). Not sure about other people, but I'm an old schooler and when I get an oil change, I drive around till I have good oil temperature (about 200 degrees) and the dealer I go to has a separate Corvette department that takes me immediately while it's still hot and the crap is suspended. It would seem that, during an oil change, there would still be at least some protection on the bearings that would not have drained down into the sump. Following that line, starting up after the oil change would be the least destructive. ?? Another good question, do you need to heat up full synthetic oil before an oil change or is that now history?
If vehicle is left sitting for long periods with one year being alluded to is I better the change it then or let it sit for even longer (years) and change it when your ready to use it.
In that situation any drain down has already reached max drainage amount. So waiting years vs a year makes no difference. All your doing by cranking it up to do an oil change or draining it to do the oil change is causing a dry start when once not really required till your actually ready to change it to use it. Plus I doubt the oils going to go bad just sitting. Ive never had oil do that without an external contaminant such as water leakage.
04-28-2015, 05:08 PM
#32
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Why? because not everybody drives the hell out of their cars. A 70 year old woman does not need Mobil-1 in her Buick.
05-03-2015, 07:13 PM
#34
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Did the mobil 1 thing nowadays just run whatevers on sale on the shelf in the DD. Sometimes use a good filter, other times not dont think it makes much difference if its changed regularly . Just cant see spending $50 on oil/filter for a worn out engine
On a higher dollar/higher rpm build still use decent stuff but dont lose sleep over it. If something is going to break having more expensive oil in it isnt going to make any difference imo.
On a higher dollar/higher rpm build still use decent stuff but dont lose sleep over it. If something is going to break having more expensive oil in it isnt going to make any difference imo.
05-04-2015, 11:33 AM
#35
Melting Slicks
It's not hard to get a jug of Mobil 1 and a name-brand long-life oil filter for about $32, maybe less. And that's regular price.
Mobil 1 currently has a rebate offer running through the end of May, gives you $12 back for every 5-qt jug you buy, up to 2 jugs max. Pretty sweet deal if you ask me.
Mobil 1 currently has a rebate offer running through the end of May, gives you $12 back for every 5-qt jug you buy, up to 2 jugs max. Pretty sweet deal if you ask me.