takovr

Just wondering, why do people put synthetic blend oil in there cars. Can anyone please explain to me were would you use this kind of oil?

FAUEE

Some people want to save a buck.

jv9999

On a related note, I once talked to a lubrication engineer at Mobil. I asked him how much synthetic is in a "blend". He told me it was a "trade secret". I figured that means <10%.

Crash594

It only worth it if your doing extended oil changes or operating in extreme conditions. Other than that it's a waist of money. In some cases causes more problems. Like oil leaks

crowz

Ive used synthetic in about every kind of motor out there from new to old and Ive never had leaks form from using it.

I use synthetic oils on extended use vehicles (long time between changes) or vehicles that sit a good bit.

Normal stuff generic American stuff I use conventional oil unless it called for synthetic when new. Course Im doing oil changes on 20 some odd vehicles so its not cost effective otherwise

As for blends. I use all or nothing. I don't fool with the mixed oils.

MavsAK

Synthetic doesn't cause any leaks.
What it does do however is resist turning into sludge like conventional oil.

I've yet to see a real world example where synthetic caused a leak.

Any engine that "started leaking" with synthetic in it..was already leaking, to start with. The sludge just covered it up.

mike100

I run motorcraft semi synthetic 5w-20 in my mustang. Nothing but the best- $17 jug from walmart. I figure the oil gets changed every 5000 or 6000 miles, what else do you want- it's a Ford. In that case the semi-synth oil is the factory fill.

Dt86

The op is talking about the synthetic blend. Not full synthetic.

MavsAK

I guess people use synethic blend cause it's cheaper than full on synthetic.

It IS better than conventional...but meh. I never got it either. Spend bigger and get the synthetic!

Wildride

The problem I've always had with the synthetic blends is what is the mix?

Is it 90% synthetic or 10% synthetic or something in between? The containers never say.

For a little more I buy the real thing-100%! I've had good luck with full synthetic and use it in all my internal combustion engines including the lawn tractor and the snow-blower.

Hary Gahtoe

Blended Syn is a less expensive way of making a Dino or base oil react more like Synthetic. It's done for $$$ reasons. The base or larger volume of the oil is Dino. Syn additives are mixed in with some very important chemicals to allow reduced bearing and surface wear. Oil companies found that Syn additives could be an alternative to some of the Gov't mandated pollution restrictions on institutionalized standard chemicals used since the 50's to reduce friction and reduce wear.

From a car owners standpoint it's crucial to read the manufacturers reccommendation of oil weight, full Syn or Dino mix.

The misunderstood piece about Synthetics and leaks is only partially truthful. It happens when an owner has an engine with very high miles and gaskets beyond service life specifically uses; and only uses High Mileage Synthetic oil. Some companies have already changed their additive formulas because it could make the rubber and nylon gaskets, timing chain blocks etc. turn soft, swell and possibly causing leaks

takovr

Thank you for the detailed info, now I understand

Red08

I think it has a lot to do with ignorance. Not sure how much synthetic is in the blend, but I've heard it isn't much. Certainly not a 50'50 m ix like some folks thin,

Greg Gore

The switch to synthetic oil required engineering changes to gaskets and seals just like the switch to R-134 refrigerant did due to the smaller molecules which will leak right through the earlier sealing technology. This does not mean you have a problem, it just means you need improved seals to handle the newer fluids.

whalepirot

I find the answer to about any 'why' question is "money".

Klondike

Never understood why anybody would "Cheap-Out" on engine oil. It doesn't cost any more than a full tank of good grade premium gas and it will out last many tanks of gas!

rocco16

If I were going the synthetic blend route, I'd roll my own; mix 50% full synthetic and 50% premium conventional oil. That way I'd KNOW what was in the engine.

I would imagine I'd get 90% of the advantages of full synthetic at 75% of the cost.


But, I find it easier to just go with the full synthetic......

Crash594

From drivinracingoil.com

4. Synthetic oils are bad for engines with old seals.

Fact or Fiction? Fact

You thought all of these would be fiction didn’t you? Well, this one turns out to be true in most applications. Notice we said most applications. While some exceptions to this rule can be found, the majority of times this rule does apply – don’t use synthetic motor oils in old engines with original seals.

When we say old engines, we mean engines that were built before 1992. Synthetic base oils are not compatible with many of the traditional seal materials, and even with “seal conditioner” additives, synthetic oils are harder on traditional seal materials than conventional oils. To avoid leaking seals, avoid very light synthetic motor oils in older engines. The low viscosity and resulting free flowing nature of the synthetic makes it easier for the oil to find a leak path. Higher-viscosity oils tend to leak less. Thus, most old-school hot rodders use thicker-viscosity conventional oils like a 15W-50 or 20W-50 in their engines.

Modern engines and modern seal materials are designed to be compatible with synthetic motor oils. This is so you can use a synthetic in a freshly rebuilt Small Block Chevy for your 1969 Camaro. If you have a ‘69 Camaro with the original seals though, then you should use a conventional oil. Now if you also happen to have a 2013 Camaro, you should use a synthetic motor oil in that engine.

Hopefully all of this puts to bed any worries or fears related to any myths you’ve heard about oil. More importantly, we hope you now see the importance of selecting the proper type of oil for the needs of a specific application. Just like a tailored suit fits the person it was tailored to better than an off-the-rack suit, application-specific formulas provide a better fit for the unique needs of performance enthusiasts than off-the-shelf motor oils.

crowz

The only problem with the "its bad for oil style seals" is Ive been running synthetic in one of the 1980 v8's I have that has 500k+ miles now (may be almost 600k) and it doesn't leak. I switched it to synthetic around 190k miles I think. I did replace the lower bearings in it around 250k miles because I pulled it apart thinking it was knocking but it was the timing chain slapping. New chain, new mains and rod bearings, new oil pump and pan gasket. Its been sealed up and not leaking from there to the 500k+ mark.

Also my stepdad ran mobil 1 in his 1977 Datsun b210 for 200k+ miles with no leaking.

Ive run synthetic in I guess about 40 vehicles Ive owned probably and never had oil leak issues from switching it over. The only thing I have that sprang a leak is my f250 in the oil cooler but that's kind of known issue plus it didn't start till around 310k miles I think. Ive got to fix that this year too. At $27 a gallon that stuff is expensive enough without it leaking on the ground

Crash594

Never said it would only that it could. Better to be made aware and make your own choice. Also there are some other interesting facts on the web site I left. What it comes down to does your oil meet the need of your engine. Not what you want but what it needs. Most every day drivers do not need it. I use royal purple in my 1988 c4 due to Florida weather and the low yearly mileage I drive it.