kidbubbles

Hi All.

I have a '93 6-speed with 60K on the clock. I would like to like to soften it up a bit.

I do enjoy stomping the pedal on occasion, though a less rattling drive would evoke some good feelings too.

I live in Illinios, where most roads have the mandatory 3 pothole minimum.

Thanks for all the help in advance.

Keith

antfarmer2

you can change the tires shocks springs and sound proof turn the radio up but nothings going to help much when your four wheeling a vette.

QCVette

I live in Illinois also. I think you missed the new law, it is now a 5 pothole minimum.

antfarmer2 is right about springs, shocks, and tires to make a change. Tell us what you have for options (could be base or FX3, Z07 ) and tires (some brands and/or runflats are stiffer), or if anything is already changed from stock, so we can make recommendations.

WVZR-1

The "pothole" minimum is per mile OR per "daily drive"?


OP - tires are maybe the first consideration - learn to "date code" check your current tires I'd think the first move.

92ragtop

The KYB shocks are a good choice to soften things up. The OEM Bilsteins are great, but are firmer than the KYB.

JrRifleCoach

Exactly. Until you tell us what your current state is, how can we help you?

Any car will ride rough when the tires are old and the shocks are worn.
And remember it's a Corvette, so a ride like your Grandmas Buick is not on the table.

So fill in the blanks and we'll try to assist.
Tires. Model/make size Front/Rear condition and tread depth
Shocks. Make mileage and condition
Suspension RPO. The PRO codes are listed in the cargo hatch behind the driver.
How often do you drive your Vette and how do you drive?

Eakster

Rear springs make the biggest difference in the ride on these cars. You might want to call Vette Brakes and Products Inc - they have a range of spring rates. Generally though, the C4 experience is shake rattle and roll

DrDyno

Keith, I'm no expert on verts although I've driven a few. And, I'm probably going to get slammed by more than one vert owner but... Every C4 vert I've driven (here in Florida on flat, reasonably well maintained roads) shook and shuddered it's way over even small road inconsistantcies.

The problem is that the C4 was not designed to be a convertible. It was designed to have removable top sections like the C3 coupes before it. However, prior to production, the GM Mucky-Mucks decided it had to have a "targa" style top, like the Porsches of that era. That's why the verts have an X-brace and the coupes become noticeably less stable with the targa top removed.

I finally had enough and installed Vette2Vette "No-Flex" frame braces on my '96 coupe. They did wonders for my coupe with the top removed. I've read they also work well for verts and allow the removal of the X-brace.

I am no expert on C4 verts and expect to get slammed pretty good but... contact Jason at Vette2Vette and ask him if his frame braces will give you what you want for your '93 vert.

JrRifleCoach

DrDyno There is much credibility in your words.Flames not necessary.

The OP really needs to come forward with more info to assist him.

Hot Rod Roy

Also, what air pressure are you using in your tires? Do you run the same air pressures front and rear?

kidbubbles

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I have more info, and will get more over the weekend.

'93 Coupe
Falken Tires
255/45/17
285/40/17
Running 35 PSI.
The DOT number is on the inside of the mount, and I didn't have time to crawl under the car. Once I get that, I'll know how old the tires are. They have a lot of tread on them, so I guess that they're not over 2 decades old.

The car came from a hot climate, (Nevada), so I guess shocks and bushings are the first order of business. I have shaken the tires while they were up in the air, so I suppose the tie rods and ball joints are good. And overall, the vehicle tracks well. It just stutters when encountering "asphalt deficient" areas. Again, I realize that it's not going to ride like a Bentley.

Again, thanks to all for the great suggestions.
Keith

WVZR-1

I believe since about '08 the DOT info and date code has been required to be on the "outside tire sidewall" as intended to be mounted. A reasonable explanation would be that either your tires are "white side-walled" OR very old. Which Falken tire model? Tread design could certainly create "noise".

I'd say it's safe to assume you should likely make tires the "first order of business" OR at least "crawling around" to get that information.

Fresh tires and tinkering with maybe tire pressures I believe would benefit ride quality more dramatically than any other "inexpensive" option. Shocks could likely improve BUT spring purchases unless you've a defective spring are expensive and I doubt very beneficial.

On the center console lid is the GMSPO SPID label with all of the production options. You might check the 3digit codes that are F(XX) & Z(XX) with (XX) being letter and number combinations. Those control the suspension features of the car "as built".

Is the car a coupe or a 'vert?

QCVette

Lower your tire pressure to 30 psi. That will help soften the ride and is what was the recommended pressure.

The tire decal on the door edge says to use 30 psi. Another decal says for competitive or high speed (over 150 mph) increase pressure to 35 psi. It doesn't sound like you are looking for competitive high speed performance so stay with the 30 psi recommendation.

I agree to check the date codes. Like WVZR-1 said, the intention now is for manufacturers to put the date code on the outside, however unless the tires are asymmetric they can be mounted either way. I have seen a lot of them (even some newer tires) mounted with the date codes on the inside. So don't guess, just look and see what they are.

MatthewMiller

IME, the most important things affecting your ride quality over bumps (which are high-speed events in terms of the speed of the suspension movement over them) are not springs, but rather dampers (shocks) and bushings. I'd go through your suspension and subframe bushings and replace any that look even slightly worn. Then, I'd look for shocks that have a highly digressive damping curve with soft overall rates. KYBs aren't what you're looking for here. Possibly single-adjustable Konis would help, but I am thinking about a set of Bilsteins with custom valving for very low damping rates in the high-speed realm (again, "speed" referring the rate of damper shaft movement rather than the vehicle's speed over the road). I do agree that rear spring rates will matter a lot more than front rates, since we nearly sit on top of the rear-axle centerline in these cars. Maybe you could search for the softest factory rear spring and swap that in (probably a base 1996 spring?).

TorchTarga94

You need to get a really big chick to ride with you. I mean, atleast pushing 350. It will soften the ride up some...

kidbubbles

I sent the wife to look in the console. The only digit combo was FE1.

As for the gravity enhanced chick......


I used to have one of those.
Traded in for a sleeker model.

JrRifleCoach

Thanks for some help.

Chances are your shocks are original. Recommended replacement interval is 50K miles and/or 10 years
Falkens are not OEM so replacement interval should be 4-6 years tread depth not a factor.
Suspension rubbers need a close examination for deformity and deep cracks.

You need to get her up on a lift and take our advise for inspection areas.
Take lots of pics too. Those can help immensely.

WVZR-1

FE1 is "base suspension" so there's theoretically little that can be done regarding replacement of major components. Tires and tire pressures I'd still think "first". Inspection of all of the rest certainly.

If you get "rattles" when hitting these potholes you might make maybe the sway-bar links and bushings a first/priority check when you do get it checked. They're easier and less expensive than any of the major suspension bushings involved. I would think these in addition to the tires and tire pressures might improve dramatically the ride quality.

ColaBear

Your 93 with FE1 should have a Rear Spring Rate of (N/mm) 39.9 (Code NYR or RCA)

A base 96 with FE1 should have Rear Spring Rate of (N/mm) 26.0 (Code RHZ)

If you decide to go this way, you should be able to locate a good used base 96 FE1 rear spring (code RHZ) for $100 to $175 with a search and some patients.

1993C4LT1