When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Changed the tps and the starter today and go to turn on the car and the SES light came on. Didn't hear anything weird so I went to drive it. The light went off and then back on three times driving about 3 miles. Here's the thing though. When I was putting on the new tps I disconnected what I think was a smog hose and forgot to put it back when I started it. Put it back and disconnected the battery for like 5 minutes to try and reset the code. Didn't work. Pulled the codes with the good ole paper clip and its only a tps code which was there before. Anyone got ideas? Car is an 85 l98 tpi.
It's a 1985. Would an incorrect idle setting cause the SES light to come on? It has always had a weird idle when it's cold and that's why I finally got a new tps to fix hopefully that. Which it didn't.
Did you adjust the new TPS correctly? Should be about .54 volts at idle. In fact, did you measure voltage on the old TPS before condemning it to the garbage can? Not uncommon for them to get out of spec and set a code. Reset voltage, clear the code, and life is good.
Did you adjust the new TPS correctly? Should be about .54 volts at idle. In fact, did you measure voltage on the old TPS before condemning it to the garbage can? Not uncommon for them to get out of spec and set a code. Reset voltage, clear the code, and life is good.
Sorry if I sound like a noob but how do I adjust the voltage? Do I need a voltmeter for it?
I extracted the codes before I replaced the starter and the tps. The only code was a tps (2 flashes followed by 2 flashes.) That is still the only code. I checked when I noticed the SES light on. It's weird but it's not showing any new codes. My car has always idled really low 380-410 rpm when I first turn it on. After it warms up it idles at 590-600.
Sorry if I sound like a noob but how do I adjust the voltage? Do I need a voltmeter for it?
Yes, any digital voltmeter will work. You can get them free with a coupon at Harbor Freight sometimes, but even without they're under $10.
All you do is loosen the screws and rotate the TPS until you achieve .54 volts with the throttle closed. You do it with the engine off. If memory serves me correctly, there are 3 wires on the TPS....you'll measure voltage on the top 2. I just unplugged the TPS and used 2 pieces of bare wire to jump the connection and attach my voltmeter. Rotate the TPS until you have .54 and tighten it down. Disconnect the battery to clear the codes, and fire it up. You shouldn't get another check engine light.
I suspect your old one was just out of adjustment and may not have been bad at all.
Maybe you guys can help me. I can't figure out how to use this thing. I followed the instructions and connected everything right and it won't get a reading. Anyone familiar with this voltmeter and can tell me what I'm doing wrong? Also if I connected the paper clips correctly? I also tried piercing the insulation on the wires (didn't work either)
Maybe you guys can help me. I can't figure out how to use this thing. I followed the instructions and connected everything right and it won't get a reading. Anyone familiar with this voltmeter and can tell me what I'm doing wrong? Also if I connected the paper clips correctly? I also tried piercing the insulation on the wires (didn't work either)
No idea I borrowed it from my buddy he said he didn't know how to use it either. When I tried it, it turned on and when I turned it the the battery icon it made a loud tone so I assume the battery is ok. When it was on the setting I was trying it said .000 on the display.
It's always a good idea to baseline a piece of equipment before running a test,
- set the rotary selector to [200] ohms. (funny looking "O") this should automatically turn the meter "On" if not then there is an on/off button on the side of the meter, it looks like the leads are in the correct position, now touch the leads together and observe the reading, it should be between 000-.5
If you don't get a reading then the internal fuse may have been Blown, or there is a Dead/Low Battery in the Meter it-self.
- set the Rotary selector to [20] on the Volts (V) Scale and select DC at the A/C-D/C selector Button, now put the leads across the car Battery and Verify the meter indicates about 12.xx without the car running. If so then you are ready for the TPS voltage test.
When you Back probe the TPS connector you will have better luck using an actual back probe needle, or just a simple straight pin..
Set the meter to 2 Volts to read the TPS voltage. Ignition must be on. Engine does not need to be running (and it's probably better if it isn't -- unless you like living on the edge and working around moving parts).
Sometimes back probing the connector is iffy. You have to make certain your probe wires are actually touching the connector pins inside the connector shell.
Did you do any of the things I suggesting in post #7?
10-03-2015, 10:05 PM
SES light comes on after starter/tps change
thankyou for the chuckle
