I Now begin my quest to find me a C4
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
I Now begin my quest to find me a C4
Well the weather is changing and with this last week of rain we received, I have put my C3 away for the winter. I have had an interest in the C4 for some time now especially the 91 thru 96 design. So I have been looking to replace my daily driver (chevy cavalier) with a C4. I have been doing alot of reading and they seem to be pretty dependable. The fact that I turn my own wrenches, they are affordable with the basic parts needing to be replaced are not that hard to replace. I am sure there are a few of you that do not agree with me, but I do not care. Anyways I have a basic budget of $5,000 to purchase one and so far it looks doable. I am sure for that price it will not be perfect but I am out for dependability, a couple scratches and needing weather stripping, etc, needing replaced does not bother me.
So far I have found a 1992 local to me that has about 108,000 on the clock and runs great. There is also a 1994 not far with only 89,000 on it that I plan to check out. The 1992 is a standard and the 1994 is an automatic. A question for any of you out there who drive their vettes daily, how is driving a standard as far as the clutch goes and shifting. Would you prefer a automatic for daily driving ?
Anyways opinions are welcome if you guys have any pointers for me.
Thanks for reading.
So far I have found a 1992 local to me that has about 108,000 on the clock and runs great. There is also a 1994 not far with only 89,000 on it that I plan to check out. The 1992 is a standard and the 1994 is an automatic. A question for any of you out there who drive their vettes daily, how is driving a standard as far as the clutch goes and shifting. Would you prefer a automatic for daily driving ?
Anyways opinions are welcome if you guys have any pointers for me.
Thanks for reading.
#2
Safety Car
I don't daily drive my 86 5 speed, but I do drive it on occasion to work (usually to check out some repair) though my normal driver is my F150 automatic.
IMO it depends on what you have to drive through and the other drivers. I have a combo of city and highway driving and inclines I have to stop on at times. Driving through downtown in a manual shift during rush hour sucks but it's doable but the real issue is stopping on inclines. There's always some dork that likes to pull right on the rear bumper at a stop. A couple are steep enough you worry about rollback while starting up, bumping into them (hasn't happened yet but still worry about it).
If I was going to do a manual around here, I'd seriously consider adding a line-loc to the car to prevent that rollback, then it would be much more doable. Without that option in the driving I do, the automatic is the easier vehicle to do.
My 2 cents
IMO it depends on what you have to drive through and the other drivers. I have a combo of city and highway driving and inclines I have to stop on at times. Driving through downtown in a manual shift during rush hour sucks but it's doable but the real issue is stopping on inclines. There's always some dork that likes to pull right on the rear bumper at a stop. A couple are steep enough you worry about rollback while starting up, bumping into them (hasn't happened yet but still worry about it).
If I was going to do a manual around here, I'd seriously consider adding a line-loc to the car to prevent that rollback, then it would be much more doable. Without that option in the driving I do, the automatic is the easier vehicle to do.
My 2 cents
Last edited by hcbph; 10-06-2015 at 07:22 AM.
#3
Racer
Depends on your driving terrain
As stated earlier an auto can make driving a lot easier in hilly areas. I have a 94 6SP which I enjoy but I live in FL which is pretty flat. The hydraulic clutch on later year C4's is very easy and smooth but if you get a manual do away with the "skip 1-4 shift" which is a pain and easy to do. As mentioned also get a "hill holder"! As I age, I'll be 73, I do think more about an auto!
#4
Intermediate
Manual or Auto. Depends upon your traffic
Hi.
I have a 93 manual, which I love to drive to the club. (about 4 times a week, 5 miles each way.)
Now, if I had to drive to my job, (30 miles each way, city of Chicago potholes, traffic jams, etc.); I'd shoot myself.
Keith
I have a 93 manual, which I love to drive to the club. (about 4 times a week, 5 miles each way.)
Now, if I had to drive to my job, (30 miles each way, city of Chicago potholes, traffic jams, etc.); I'd shoot myself.
Keith
#5
Le Mans Master
Depends on your driving and what you like.
When I had a lot of traffic (frequent dead stops on a 6 lane highway and lots of creeping forward a few feet) I wanted an automatic. For most other conditions I want a 6 speed.
Getting used to starting on an uphill is not to bad. You can do it quite easily with practice.
For me the 6 speed is just more fun. That is why I sold my '88 A4 for my '94 6M when I had about a 100 mile per day commute.
Just depends on what you like.
When I had a lot of traffic (frequent dead stops on a 6 lane highway and lots of creeping forward a few feet) I wanted an automatic. For most other conditions I want a 6 speed.
Getting used to starting on an uphill is not to bad. You can do it quite easily with practice.
For me the 6 speed is just more fun. That is why I sold my '88 A4 for my '94 6M when I had about a 100 mile per day commute.
Just depends on what you like.
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1993C4LT1 (10-06-2015)
#7
Safety Car
Automatic C4's do not exist to me. That said, the ZF and dual mass flywheel combination in the 89-up 4th gen vette is probably the easiest manual trans vette there is to drive. Small block off-idle torque combined with a 40 lb flywheel and you almost can't stall one. Make sure the synchros are good on the ZF box as they are super spendy to rebuild. Clutch hydraulics fail easily and sometimes people don't jump on the repair right away and screw things up.
These cars are either great or a can of worms. Try to find a good seller that did a fair amount of repairs and maintenance (mileage not super critical) because if you don't, you can get a car that needs everything and it might wear you down. Good thing you do your own work though-it is cheaper to buy a newer car if you don't.
These cars are either great or a can of worms. Try to find a good seller that did a fair amount of repairs and maintenance (mileage not super critical) because if you don't, you can get a car that needs everything and it might wear you down. Good thing you do your own work though-it is cheaper to buy a newer car if you don't.
#8
Melting Slicks
Depends on your driving and what you like.
When I had a lot of traffic (frequent dead stops on a 6 lane highway and lots of creeping forward a few feet) I wanted an automatic. For most other conditions I want a 6 speed.
Getting used to starting on an uphill is not to bad. You can do it quite easily with practice.
For me the 6 speed is just more fun. That is why I sold my '88 A4 for my '94 6M when I had about a 100 mile per day commute.
Just depends on what you like.
When I had a lot of traffic (frequent dead stops on a 6 lane highway and lots of creeping forward a few feet) I wanted an automatic. For most other conditions I want a 6 speed.
Getting used to starting on an uphill is not to bad. You can do it quite easily with practice.
For me the 6 speed is just more fun. That is why I sold my '88 A4 for my '94 6M when I had about a 100 mile per day commute.
Just depends on what you like.
I think it all boils down to how much you enjoy shifting gears, and what your daily drive/commute looks like. My commute has some stop/go and unpredictable city traffic. So my DD is a Tacoma pickup with an automatic, which almost drives itself. My 1995 LT1/ZF6 is driven about 3 days per week, usually in the evening after commute hours when traffic has let up a bit. That is why I wanted a manual, not only is it preferred for sports cars, but I try to take it out when I can be relatively sure the roads won't be packed, and can actually enjoy driving (I enjoy driving, therefore I hate traffic). For me, manual transmissions get tiresome after about 20 minutes of stop/go traffic. But that's my threshold for pain, yours may be different.
These cars are very reliable if in good overall condition, especially the later years you are looking at. All cars are improved and refined within their model generations, but this is especially true with the C4. I've had two 1995 models with the LT1/ZF6 combo, first one was 108,000 miles/good condition, this one is 60,000 miles/excellent condition. I stay on top of maintenance, took them on several road trips of 1000+ miles and never a wisp of trouble from either one.
I agree the ZF6 is hard to stall, also because 1st gear is fairly short ratio. I often don't touch the gas at all when leaving a stop in 1st gear.
Jim Jandik of Power Torque Systems is an expert with the C4 clutch hydraulics. Very experienced, friendly and helpful. He even owns some of the original GM tooling that was used to produce clutch parts for these cars.
Hope this helps you. These cars are a ton of fun, great bang for the buck and great handling, and a great choice for anyone who wants an engaging sport driving experience.
#9
Safety Car
I drove in LA stop-start traffic for a few years. It's a pain in the *** heavy clutch pedal, and you are CONSTANTLY watching the temp gauge (even tho I never had a problem with overheating..reverse cooling just makes you paranoid). However, it's a Corvette that sounds awesome going under the overpasses and not the same old grey/ silver boxes that surround you, plus its a proper sports car so why would you *ever* want an auto!! So that's what mattered to me at the time
#11
Melting Slicks
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"If I was going to do a manual around here, I'd seriously consider adding a line-loc to the car to prevent that rollback, then it would be much more doable. Without that option in the driving I do, the automatic is the easier vehicle to do."
Set the E-brake, when you start to engage the clutch release the E-brake = no roll back.
OP, a friends Dad has a nice 94 coupe, red w/ red/black guts, auto, new brakes, opti, restored saw blades, about 62K miles. Car looks good in the pix I viewed Sunday.
Priced @ 7500.00. Its located in IL south of Chicago.
Set the E-brake, when you start to engage the clutch release the E-brake = no roll back.
OP, a friends Dad has a nice 94 coupe, red w/ red/black guts, auto, new brakes, opti, restored saw blades, about 62K miles. Car looks good in the pix I viewed Sunday.
Priced @ 7500.00. Its located in IL south of Chicago.
#12
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Sep 2015
Location: Bang Bang Chicago Illinois
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C4 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
Scrappy since you asked if I was daily driving any car in Chicagoland like kidbubbles too I would drive one with an automatic and I do. I drive 32 miles each way from the west suburbs to the north side of Chicago. In the summer months I do drive my 6 speed manual 1990 Corvette regularly. This year not as much as previous years due to road construction and the clutch still does not work right after having it replaced in June, it has been back to the shop twice since then and going back again Thursday.
I am the one and only owner of my Corvette and I ordered and bought in 1990. I think that they are very reliable. In the 25 years that I have owned the car the first break down was in 2000 and that was the injectors. The next time was in 2008 and that was a bunch of stuff from what I remember water pump, fuel pump, computer and a few other things that added up to $2044. 2014 was the clutch master and slave cylinder. 2015 has been bad I had the clutch and flywheel replaced in June and back twice since. The clutch is chattering, the shop thinks it’s the flywheel, they put in a single mass, I don’t know what it is. I got the dual mass back from them and had it resurfaced. They are going the install the dual mass on Thursday. Anyone have any ideas? Mike100?
Scrappy the only other thing I can think of is don’t drive while it’s snowing, I don’t know if you get snow there, and try not to drive the Corvette while it is raining although I have done that and you can definitely hear the water hitting the bottom of the car. It is good that you can turn the wrenches it will save you some cash.
I am the one and only owner of my Corvette and I ordered and bought in 1990. I think that they are very reliable. In the 25 years that I have owned the car the first break down was in 2000 and that was the injectors. The next time was in 2008 and that was a bunch of stuff from what I remember water pump, fuel pump, computer and a few other things that added up to $2044. 2014 was the clutch master and slave cylinder. 2015 has been bad I had the clutch and flywheel replaced in June and back twice since. The clutch is chattering, the shop thinks it’s the flywheel, they put in a single mass, I don’t know what it is. I got the dual mass back from them and had it resurfaced. They are going the install the dual mass on Thursday. Anyone have any ideas? Mike100?
Scrappy the only other thing I can think of is don’t drive while it’s snowing, I don’t know if you get snow there, and try not to drive the Corvette while it is raining although I have done that and you can definitely hear the water hitting the bottom of the car. It is good that you can turn the wrenches it will save you some cash.
#14
Pro
^ good post
I think it all boils down to how much you enjoy shifting gears, and what your daily drive/commute looks like. My commute has some stop/go and unpredictable city traffic. So my DD is a Tacoma pickup with an automatic, which almost drives itself. My 1995 LT1/ZF6 is driven about 3 days per week, usually in the evening after commute hours when traffic has let up a bit. That is why I wanted a manual, not only is it preferred for sports cars, but I try to take it out when I can be relatively sure the roads won't be packed, and can actually enjoy driving (I enjoy driving, therefore I hate traffic). For me, manual transmissions get tiresome after about 20 minutes of stop/go traffic. But that's my threshold for pain, yours may be different.
These cars are very reliable if in good overall condition, especially the later years you are looking at. All cars are improved and refined within their model generations, but this is especially true with the C4. I've had two 1995 models with the LT1/ZF6 combo, first one was 108,000 miles/good condition, this one is 60,000 miles/excellent condition. I stay on top of maintenance, took them on several road trips of 1000+ miles and never a wisp of trouble from either one.
I agree the ZF6 is hard to stall, also because 1st gear is fairly short ratio. I often don't touch the gas at all when leaving a stop in 1st gear.
Jim Jandik of Power Torque Systems is an expert with the C4 clutch hydraulics. Very experienced, friendly and helpful. He even owns some of the original GM tooling that was used to produce clutch parts for these cars.
Hope this helps you. These cars are a ton of fun, great bang for the buck and great handling, and a great choice for anyone who wants an engaging sport driving experience.
I think it all boils down to how much you enjoy shifting gears, and what your daily drive/commute looks like. My commute has some stop/go and unpredictable city traffic. So my DD is a Tacoma pickup with an automatic, which almost drives itself. My 1995 LT1/ZF6 is driven about 3 days per week, usually in the evening after commute hours when traffic has let up a bit. That is why I wanted a manual, not only is it preferred for sports cars, but I try to take it out when I can be relatively sure the roads won't be packed, and can actually enjoy driving (I enjoy driving, therefore I hate traffic). For me, manual transmissions get tiresome after about 20 minutes of stop/go traffic. But that's my threshold for pain, yours may be different.
These cars are very reliable if in good overall condition, especially the later years you are looking at. All cars are improved and refined within their model generations, but this is especially true with the C4. I've had two 1995 models with the LT1/ZF6 combo, first one was 108,000 miles/good condition, this one is 60,000 miles/excellent condition. I stay on top of maintenance, took them on several road trips of 1000+ miles and never a wisp of trouble from either one.
I agree the ZF6 is hard to stall, also because 1st gear is fairly short ratio. I often don't touch the gas at all when leaving a stop in 1st gear.
Jim Jandik of Power Torque Systems is an expert with the C4 clutch hydraulics. Very experienced, friendly and helpful. He even owns some of the original GM tooling that was used to produce clutch parts for these cars.
Hope this helps you. These cars are a ton of fun, great bang for the buck and great handling, and a great choice for anyone who wants an engaging sport driving experience.
#15
when I bought my 85 I looked for a automatic because my wife and I make 5-6 trips a year down to the pigeon forge tn area lots of stop and go traffic, if I ever get a different vette ill go with a stick. most of my driving locally a stick would be more fun to drive.
#16
Safety Car
... The clutch is chattering, the shop thinks it’s the flywheel, they put in a single mass, I don’t know what it is. I got the dual mass back from them and had it resurfaced. They are going the install the dual mass on Thursday. Anyone have any ideas? Mike100?
...
...
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks guys for all the replies.
I have a 98 mile a day commute, but its mainly highway. Not alot of traffic because of my work hours ( 4am-3pm ). We do get a fair amount of snow but it changes from one year to the next. I have a S10 4x4 for that. I love the idea of a manual and it sounds as if these C4's do not have hard clutches. I have not driven one yet, going to look a couple this weekend. So that will determine if I go manual. As I said before, I basically only have a budget of $5,000-5,500 so I have to try and stay in that range. My wife was diagnosed with cancer a few years ago and could not work. Thank god she is cancer free and just now started working almost full time.
' churchkey ' , Thank you for telling me about the one you know for sale, but that is out of my budget and too far to go get.
So if anyone of you know of one for sale in the 1991 to 1996 range and within 150 miles from DC area, please let me know.
I have a 98 mile a day commute, but its mainly highway. Not alot of traffic because of my work hours ( 4am-3pm ). We do get a fair amount of snow but it changes from one year to the next. I have a S10 4x4 for that. I love the idea of a manual and it sounds as if these C4's do not have hard clutches. I have not driven one yet, going to look a couple this weekend. So that will determine if I go manual. As I said before, I basically only have a budget of $5,000-5,500 so I have to try and stay in that range. My wife was diagnosed with cancer a few years ago and could not work. Thank god she is cancer free and just now started working almost full time.
' churchkey ' , Thank you for telling me about the one you know for sale, but that is out of my budget and too far to go get.
So if anyone of you know of one for sale in the 1991 to 1996 range and within 150 miles from DC area, please let me know.
#18
Pro
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Current C4 is the ZFx6 and I'd have it no other way. But then all my cars are manuals. Been driving manuals since my first car, a Corvair, my latest being a Cruze 6 speed. I live in Wisconsin but work in Chicago(sales). Mainly the suburbs but plenty of stop and go. I have no trouble with hills or with the stop and go, even in parking lot freeway traffic jams. After a long drive one of my passengers even remarked "I thought you had a stick shift". It can be that smooth and natural. You just get used to it. For me its just more enjoyable to play with the RPM's, the torque and such. I also have a C3 4 speed, my bud has one with an auto. We both love them and wouldn't change. If you want to drive a manual you'll learn, with or without a "hill holder". By the way, if you consider the ZF be prepared for a lot of gear whine. Of all the manuals I've owned this is the noisiest. I'm informed this is optional, but normal. Switching to Amzoil quieted it down a lot, but its still noisy. After a few months I've grown to actually like it.Whichever you choose, enjoy the ride.
#19
Safety Car
Scrappy
Here's a couple of thoughts on car sources. First is watch the forums, many times someone will list here or on other sites before listing local. One advantage is you can get more history and info on a car before going to see them.
The second is riskier but can save some real $$ if it works out. If you know someone with a dealers license, have them check out the various car auctions. If a car isn't sold soon enough or doesn't go with the other vehicles the dealer normally carry, many are auctioned off. There's potential to get more of a car for less $$ but it's not without risk, there are no mulligans at an auction. If you bought it, it's yours. You also cannot get in to see the cars without going with a dealer. I've bought 3 vehicles that way, including my 86 and it's worked out for me. My 86 was a trade-in on a Hummer and didn't go with the vehicles the dealer stocked (Hummers, Lambo's, high end Porsche's, AMG Mercedes, etc) on their lot. The dealer still had it on their website when it went to auction so I found a lot of info there plus I talked to them post purchase. I ended up saving several thousand $$ buying it through the auction over what they'd listed it for on their website.
My friend (the dealer) said most cars are accurately listed on any issues and condition of the vehicles. He said if a seller lies, word gets around very quickly and buyers are reluctant to buy from that seller in the future so it's in their best interest to be honest. Having gotten 3 vehicles that way, it's been accurate for the ones I've bought.
My 2 cents. Good luck.
Paul
PS - I've been driving sticks for almost 60 years so I've a bit of experience with them. Problem though can be how the previous owner treated a vehicle, in particular the clutch on manual tranny cars. When my kids took drivers ed, they didn't teach anything on manual transmissions so no telling if the p.o. knew how to drive a stick or not. I've seen a new manual driver burn up a clutch in as little as a few months so if you don't know the history of the vehicle or driver, be prepared for a possible clutch replacement if it was abused.
Here's a couple of thoughts on car sources. First is watch the forums, many times someone will list here or on other sites before listing local. One advantage is you can get more history and info on a car before going to see them.
The second is riskier but can save some real $$ if it works out. If you know someone with a dealers license, have them check out the various car auctions. If a car isn't sold soon enough or doesn't go with the other vehicles the dealer normally carry, many are auctioned off. There's potential to get more of a car for less $$ but it's not without risk, there are no mulligans at an auction. If you bought it, it's yours. You also cannot get in to see the cars without going with a dealer. I've bought 3 vehicles that way, including my 86 and it's worked out for me. My 86 was a trade-in on a Hummer and didn't go with the vehicles the dealer stocked (Hummers, Lambo's, high end Porsche's, AMG Mercedes, etc) on their lot. The dealer still had it on their website when it went to auction so I found a lot of info there plus I talked to them post purchase. I ended up saving several thousand $$ buying it through the auction over what they'd listed it for on their website.
My friend (the dealer) said most cars are accurately listed on any issues and condition of the vehicles. He said if a seller lies, word gets around very quickly and buyers are reluctant to buy from that seller in the future so it's in their best interest to be honest. Having gotten 3 vehicles that way, it's been accurate for the ones I've bought.
My 2 cents. Good luck.
Paul
PS - I've been driving sticks for almost 60 years so I've a bit of experience with them. Problem though can be how the previous owner treated a vehicle, in particular the clutch on manual tranny cars. When my kids took drivers ed, they didn't teach anything on manual transmissions so no telling if the p.o. knew how to drive a stick or not. I've seen a new manual driver burn up a clutch in as little as a few months so if you don't know the history of the vehicle or driver, be prepared for a possible clutch replacement if it was abused.
Last edited by hcbph; 10-07-2015 at 07:17 AM.