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Clutch going after under 1 year/2,000 miles? (transmission problems)

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Old 10-22-2015, 08:24 PM
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Default Clutch going after under 1 year/2,000 miles? (transmission problems)

Early this year, I had my 1985 4+3 clutch assembly, slave cylinder, master cylinder, and flywheel replaced with AC Delco parts by a trusted mechanic after the long-squeaking throwout bearing had failed almost completely. The slave cylinder blew again shortly thereafter, and the linkage was adjusted when the slave was replaced. For the first several hundred miles, however, the clutch slipped badly but was broken in and working great by summer and through, when the suspension was rebuilt and I sent the car in for an alignment.

Going to pick it up at the body shop where it was done, I couldn't put it in gear and reverse simply grinded; the next day, I had the car towed down the street to the shop where the clutch was replaced... they told me to come back Monday, when it was working fine even though they hadn't touched anything. I've been driving it daily since then. However, it was only a couple of weeks later when really intrusive clutch chatter began (pulling away in first). It became less pronounced after a while until it got to the point where it wasn't a real concern. Soon after the clutch chatter subsided, the car would intermittently grind going into reverse (sometimes won't go at all, others grinding just a bit, almost always requiring some force). I'd pump the clutch pedal and shift into third and then reverse which helps marginally if at all. Sometimes the car will just slide right into reverse. This worries me because reverse is part of the overdrive, and there has been whine in direct drive (that I now realize is probably from the '85 pre-updated annular thrust bearing) since I bought the car.

Just after the reverse issue, it became very difficult to shift into first gear and somewhat difficult to shift into second gear (other gears to a lesser extent). This might have been because of worn synchros--I'm really not sure--but it seems that way because it is very easy to shift into first when rolling at about 5 mph and not too hard in other gears when rev matching properly. This, surfacing just after reverse issue, was followed by the most recent development: the reemergence of the TOB squeak from the beginning of the entire clutch saga. I noticed a week ago that, like a few months before I had to replace the clutch, there is a squeak something like a slipping belt when I engage/take my foot off the clutch. It has been getting progressively more noticeable just as it did before.

My only theories are faulty clutch, poor installment, failing overdrive, a bad clutch release fork, and maybe bad shifter rods?

Can anyone with any practical knowledge figure any of these issues out? I'd really appreciate any advice. Thanks!

Last edited by C4+3=/=C7; 10-22-2015 at 08:35 PM.
Old 10-22-2015, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by C4+3=/=C7
Early this year, I had my 1985 4+3 clutch assembly, slave cylinder, master cylinder, and flywheel replaced with AC Delco parts by a trusted mechanic after the long-squeaking throwout bearing had failed almost completely. The slave cylinder blew again shortly thereafter, and the linkage was adjusted when the slave was replaced. For the first several hundred miles, however, the clutch slipped badly but was broken in and working great by summer and through, when the suspension was rebuilt and I sent the car in for an alignment.

Going to pick it up at the body shop where it was done, I couldn't put it in gear and reverse simply grinded; the next day, I had the car towed down the street to the shop where the clutch was replaced... they told me to come back Monday, when it was working fine even though they hadn't touched anything. I've been driving it daily since then. However, it was only a couple of weeks later when really intrusive clutch chatter began (pulling away in first). It became less pronounced after a while until it got to the point where it wasn't a real concern. Soon after the clutch chatter subsided, the car would intermittently grind going into reverse (sometimes won't go at all, others grinding just a bit, almost always requiring some force). I'd pump the clutch pedal and shift into third and then reverse which helps marginally if at all. Sometimes the car will just slide right into reverse. This worries me because reverse is part of the overdrive, and there has been whine in direct drive (that I now realize is probably from the '85 pre-updated annular thrust bearing) since I bought the car.

Just after the reverse issue, it became very difficult to shift into first gear and somewhat difficult to shift into second gear (other gears to a lesser extent). This might have been because of worn synchros--I'm really not sure--but it seems that way because it is very easy to shift into first when rolling at about 5 mph and not too hard in other gears when rev matching properly. This, surfacing just after reverse issue, was followed by the most recent development: the reemergence of the TOB squeak from the beginning of the entire clutch saga. I noticed a week ago that, like a few months before I had to replace the clutch, there is a squeak something like a slipping belt when I engage/take my foot off the clutch. It has been getting progressively more noticeable just as it did before.

My only theories are faulty clutch, poor installment, failing overdrive, a bad clutch release fork, and maybe bad shifter rods?

Can anyone with any practical knowledge figure any of these issues out? I'd really appreciate any advice. Thanks!
Did they machine the flywheel or replace it ?? And was the pilot bearing replaced ??? I need to know this before I can form an intelligent hypothesis.
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Amotoxracer
Did they machine the flywheel or replace it ?? And was the pilot bearing replaced ??? I need to know this before I can form an intelligent hypothesis.
It was a new dual mass flywheel. As for the pilot bearing, I wish I knew for sure whether or not that was replaced... the friend who did the replacement said that he could get a good deal on the AC Delco parts so I didn't end up ordering them myself. I don't know what all was included in the AC Delco clutch kit I'm afraid. Sorry for not having the specifics but thanks for the help.
Old 10-22-2015, 09:02 PM
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Amotoxracer, it seems that the 4+3 clutch kit PN is ACDELCO 381223, which does contain a new pilot bearing. I'm assuming it does have a new one in that case.

Originally Posted by bow tie guy
sounds to me like someone man handled it and busted the input shaft bearing and cracked the bearing sleeve/cone

are you getting full stroke and disengagement? if so pull the trans and inspect the above
I have full stroke and disengagement, so maybe this winter will be a good time to take a closer look. This should help to narrow down the problem. Thank you.

Last edited by C4+3=/=C7; 10-22-2015 at 09:04 PM.
Old 10-22-2015, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by C4+3=/=C7
It was a new dual mass flywheel. As for the pilot bearing, I wish I knew for sure whether or not that was replaced... the friend who did the replacement said that he could get a good deal on the AC Delco parts so I didn't end up ordering them myself. I don't know what all was included in the AC Delco clutch kit I'm afraid. Sorry for not having the specifics but thanks for the help.
Ok good at least the flywheel is new. So now you need to know for certain if they replaced the pilot bearing. I would start by looking at your repair order. We all know that sometimes you don't get what you pay for but you NEVER get what you don't pay for, so I would think there would be a line item on the repair order charging you for the part.

I'm not ready to say the input shaft bearing is damaged .... yet.

I guess it does not matter since if the pilot bearing is messed up then the trans is coming back out anyway ...
Old 10-22-2015, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by C4+3=/=C7
It was a new dual mass flywheel.
I doubt that they put a DM FW in an '85. Probably a new single mass FW. It sounds like youre hydraulics are not functioning correctly. If it grind and/or won't go into reverse, or any other gear, the clutch isn't releasing. What releases teh clutch? The Master, slave, fork and Throw out bearing.
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Old 10-22-2015, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by C4+3=/=C7
Amotoxracer, it seems that the 4+3 clutch kit PN is ACDELCO 381223, which does contain a new pilot bearing. I'm assuming it does have a new one in that case.



I have full stroke and disengagement, so maybe this winter will be a good time to take a closer look. This should help to narrow down the problem. Thank you.


Ok. Assuming its new and was actually replaced during install process then there's not really any good way to determine what's going on without disassembly and carefully inspecting all the parts. If the installer was some jackass that used an impact gun to draw the trans and the bell housing together then he easily could have damaged the clutch disc, the input shaft, or the pilot bearing and possibly some of the trans internals. Regardless of our speculation, it sounds like the trans is coming back out.
Old 10-22-2015, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
I doubt that they put a DM FW in an '85. Probably a new single mass FW. It sounds like youre hydraulics are not functioning correctly. If it grind and/or won't go into reverse, or any other gear, the clutch isn't releasing. What releases teh clutch? The Master, slave, fork and Throw out bearing.
You're right, it seems that the same single mass was used from '65 to '85. Hydraulic parts seem like a logical explanation; I remember arriving at the conclusion that the fork was causing the problem after the alignment but can't remember exactly why I'd arrived at that other than that it would explain the blown master and two slave cylinders. I appreciate the help.


Originally Posted by Amotoxracer
Ok. Assuming its new and was actually replaced during install process then there's not really any good way to determine what's going on without disassembly and carefully inspecting all the parts. If the installer was some jackass that used an impact gun to draw the trans and the bell housing together then he easily could have damaged the clutch disc, the input shaft, or the pilot bearing and possibly some of the trans internals. Regardless of our speculation, it sounds like the trans is coming back out.
Sorry for putting the info in a another reply. The clutch chatter points to a possibly damaged disc while blown master/slave cylinders seem to suggest a clutch fork problem from what I've read. The shop owner and his relative who works there are friends of mine, but I won't discount the possibility that there was an install problem. I definitely understand the possibilities better now than before and hopefully things will be clearer once I get the chance to take the car off the road for a while.

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