Brad-SixTsix

Hi all,

I'm restomodding a C2 and I want to use the suspension, seats, steering, and engine from a C4 (85-87).

I was going to buy the parts individually but realized I could save $$$ if I just parted one out.

So you guys that have 85-87 C4's, is there anything I need to watch out for?

How much would a stock L98 rebuild cost me?
How much would stock suspension, brakes, and steering rebuild cost?


Just wondering if I should spend $1500-2000 and get one with 150k miles on it then rebuild everything or spend $3,000 and get one with 65k miles.

corvetteronw

If I were you (which obviously I am not) I would find an LS based engine from a GM truck. The car will have better resale value and there are more aftermarket goodies available.
But the L98s are sturdy beasts and will last 200,000 miles+ without a rebuild. The weak points are the sealing of the intake manifold, the wear on the fuel injectors and the relatively common blown head gaskets.
Have you talked with Jason at www.vette2vette.com? He supplies C4 parts for street rod and restomod projects all the time and offers great service. Winter is a busy season for him so have patience.
The brakes, steering and suspension may not need a rebuild if you find the right car as many of them have had this done already.
If you are determined to go this route then look in the C4 For Sale section here or the C4 Parts For Sale/Wanted section. You can even place an ad there for what you want.
Here us a lead in Ontario, CA:http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/5303718531.html

Tom400CFI

about the engine.

spend as little as possible...all suspension should be rebuilt on a 20+ year odl car regardless of mileage.,

WVZR-1

It might help if you shared a little more regarding the project. If this is on a custom chassis by a reputable fabricator then there's no reason to "cheap out" on the project. If it's a build that isn't maybe as well thought out then maybe there's a very good reason for your direction.

If you're dead set on an early build I believe you buy a late '86 or '87 car and you buy a manual trans car or a car that has a confirmed D44 rear. The D44 gets you a 3.07 for sure and is easier to build on later.
Late '86 or '87 gets you the aluminum heads, '87 gets you roller hydraulics.

I don't understand the seats?

Is the chassis as it sits constructed for '87 and earlier components?

You've presented a pretty confusing post.

Brad-SixTsix

Sorry should have been more clear.

I'm going to weld the C4 suspension into my C2 frame, and yes I know tough project etc. I have a friend who's done it before (on a C2) so he's going to work with me. Both of us know how to weld and have enough experience to do the job right.

On the seats there are others who have put them in their C2's. Sure they're not the best if I buy the whole car I might as well use what I can.

Buying the C4 suspension alone will cost me between 1000-1200, then the engine 500 if I find a good deal. For that price I can buy a whole car, part it out and make my money back while getting a bunch of free stuff.

That's one thing I don't understand on some of these forums. A lot of people here like to talk about how much money they spend on their vettes. Not me, I've got to many hobbies to put all my $ into a car I plan on driving regularly.

WVZR-1

Your intention is to use only the "steering axle" and the engine OR ....

Brad-SixTsix

I'll use the steering rack, front suspension & crossmember, rear suspension, seats, and engine. It's all been done before on both the C2 and the C3.

I missed a good one the other day, '85 with 100k for $2,000. But as said before the late 86's and 87 has better engine components.

JrRifleCoach

Chevy L98 5.7 600lbs 270 hp
Chevy SB LS1 460lbs 400 hp

Numbers are approximate, but you get the idea.

Churchkey

Suggest 88 up suspension it has the same track width as the earlier cars. Better brakes etc. Might find one with the J55 13" front rotors. Some cars had a quick ratio rack.

Easy to spot the 13 front brakes they have vane rotors. Standard 12" rotors are thin solids.

88 & later rear calipers have the E brake built into them. 84 to 87 use the C3 style E brake with shoes inside the rotor.

Tom400CFI

No C4 brakes are solid; they're all vented...or "vane" as you called them.

J55 vs. base...

skullandbones

I like the idea of transplanting the entire chassis of the C4. It is a nice unit. I was thinking of building another Cobra but using the C4 suspension but the long torque tube would be a major hurdle. If you accomplish your goal you will get a great improvement on the suspension maybe lowering your roll centers and the LS engine would really change your weight to HP ratio. It would be a track monster!!

Good luck,

WEK.

Churchkey

Thanks for the clarification its been 15 or so years since I had 12" brakes & posted from a tired memory. Should have consulted my brake data.

The visual is rotor thickness.
12" has .72
13" has 1.1

Stock 13" rotors are side specific they have curved cooling vanes.

Tom400CFI

No worries. We all do it. I do, anyway.

Interesting info about the "shaped" vanes/fins on the J55. My C6/Z51 (which was obviously later) had "shaped" fins too....but only one PN for both sides!! So the right side rotor was "backward" and would run hotter than the left side! Stupid.

Lloyd Smale

heres a slightly different look at it. The tuned port motor is going to be cheaper to buy and cheaper to rebuild. No it wont put out the power and is heavier but with alum heads its still probably lighter then what you have now. You can probably buy a rebuilt 350 cheaper then a used ls motor. Then you have the tuned port system. Yes its old technology now. But again its a big step up from what your running now and I personaly think its got more eye appeal then ANY motor. The ls motor with its covers doesn't even look like a motor. Where the tuned port motors really pop. They impress everyone that doesn't know motors at car shows. I think a c3 with a tuned port motor would be a nice rig myself.

odxr

If you want oem grade bushings + ball joints try Rock Auto.They almost give the parts away.There are a few companies making complete frames but they are about $10k.I bought an 87 4+3 that was rough for a project for $1500.Fyi the 4+3 in 85+ has a dana 44 diff.My overdrive was not working but I just installed my own switch and it works fine.If you get a tpi motor with out wiring I would run it with a megasquirt efi.