Bobby Brewsky

I'm considering draining and filling my system myself as I don't know it's history. It's in off site storage now, and I don't remember if it has green or orange...I think if it's green, I'll keep it that way, if it's orange, I'll keep it that way.

1996 LT1 A4
42,000 miles

1. Looking on Rock Auto, there are many types of knock sensors. Are the right/left the same or are they different part numbers?

2. Any manufacturer recommendations or is everything made in China?

3. I've seen a shop vac recommended on blow to help. Can anyone elaborate or point me to the right thread?

4. Is anyone still using the recommended sealing pellets GM Part #3634621?

5. The manual says to remove the lower right/left drain hole plug. I've never heard anyone refer to these. Anyone know the location in relation to the KS's?

5. Would you replace the water pump? Any other non Opti SBC I wouldn't touch it.

6. Any manufacturer recommendations or is everything made in China? I'm not interested in a stand alone wp.

I'll do the upper/lower hoses and the thermostat while I'm in there...

PatternDayTrader

The knock sensors are the same, and it's a good idea to replace them if they have been removed at any time.

I tend to gravitate towards ac Delco parts regardless of cost.

You don't need to mess with the shop vac idea if your going to pull the knock sensors. It will just make an even bigger mess in the driveway.

I woukdnt mess with the pellets. It's just more crap that dosent really do anything except add to the gross revenue of wherever you buy them.

I'm not sure what drain plug is being talked about in your manual unless its the radiator drain in either the left or right side radiator tank at the bottom.

I wouldn't replace the water pump unless it's leaking or otherwise causing a problem. Just inspect it from time to time and if it ever feels like your power steering isn't working properly then it's probably dripping coolant onto the belt.

Same thing on the wp manufacturer. I would go with ac delco, not because I love them, but because I suffer less bs by using them.

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corvetteronw

Gordon Killebrew used to recommend Bars Leaks as he said it was put in all Cadillacs on the assembly line. If it was good enough for Cadillac to use then it should be good enough for Chevys.
As for the water pump - if it ain't broke then don't fix it.

TorchTarga94

Just replace hoses & coolant (knock sensors if you want) and motor on.

Bobby Brewsky

Thanx to all

c4cruiser

Your '96 uses DexCool; a 50-50 mix of that and distilled water. You can buy Dex already pre-mixed but it's cheaper to buy the concentrate and get a couple gallon jugs of distilled water at any grocery store.

IIRC, GM dropped the use of the sealing pellets some years ago. I would suggest replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses. The water pump doesn't need to be replaced as long as there are no signs of leakage such as stains or coolant dripping.

Removing the knock sensors will help in getting all of the old coolant out of the block. I think the FSM says to drain the old coolant, refill with plain water and start the engine. Let the coolant temp come up to near operating temp, shut the engine off and drain the water. Repeat this two more times, then fill with the coolant mix.

It can't hurt to replace the thermostat and the pressure cap. If they are original, that makes them 20 years old. Also remove the serp belt and inspect for cracks. Might want to just get a new one to be safe.

antfarmer2

100 percent with A racer the knock sensors are on either side of the engine. In the center under a shield. You will have to block it up. Pay attention to them them they can be confusing one side more than the other. Just pinch the connectors with your fingers to remove. I worked in some factory's and we always put the pellets in but do not anymore. run a wire in the KS holes to loosen crap and turn your head and keep your mouth shut. I would do the o2s while under there most will disagree but they do get old and slow. I just did my front two but mine is a 94 and ob1. Torque is very important on the KS 14 lb if I remember right. The new ones come with the right dope I recomend new and $25 if I remember right.

ColaBear

I would only replace the water pump if there was something wrong with it.

PatternDayTrader

Digression on knock sensors.



If you look closely at a knock sensor you will notice that it is constructed out of two main pieces. There is the body of the sensor that threads into the block and there is a second piece (in the center) that has the six sided hex stamped into it. The body of the sensor is crimped over the edges of the second piece with the hex. In the event the crimped lip on the body of the sensor allows the center piece with the hex to rotate without the body of the sensor, then it will break internally, and regardless of other circumstances you will have to replace it. This can happen when your removing the sensor or reinstalling it. This brings me to my point; if you can see this happened then don't bother even trying to see if it will work, just get a new one.