1995 fuel leak
#1
1995 fuel leak
Hey guys, haven't driven the car for awhile once I noticed fuel leaking onto the exhaust. Sucks because I have long tube headers and 1.7 rockers waiting to go in.
Anyone experience this leak befor? <br > <br >
I've never messed with fuel lines befor, is this a do it yourself in a few hours fix? It seems to be coming from up high then dripping down on everything else.
Who is a good place to get the parts from? Could it be just a seal or is it most likely rusted lines?
Thanks for any help!
Anyone experience this leak befor? <br > <br >
I've never messed with fuel lines befor, is this a do it yourself in a few hours fix? It seems to be coming from up high then dripping down on everything else.
Who is a good place to get the parts from? Could it be just a seal or is it most likely rusted lines?
Thanks for any help!
#2
Pull the fuel door then the bib and hope it is right there.
#4
Sorry. To hear this. I have not witnessed that much rust on a vette. I have experianced. Tiny pin holes. That developed on these VERY thin C4 fuel tanks. In multi 94 - 95's
Your picture suggests there is major rot on your fuel tank corner. And the fuel lines.
If your sending unit is in good condition?? The lines are only steel. On the tank side. You can purchase aluminum line from summit / jegs. That is VERY easy to work with. To replace your tank fuel line.
Your picture suggests there is major rot on your fuel tank corner. And the fuel lines.
If your sending unit is in good condition?? The lines are only steel. On the tank side. You can purchase aluminum line from summit / jegs. That is VERY easy to work with. To replace your tank fuel line.
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; 05-19-2016 at 07:59 PM.
#5
#6
well I got the bib out and everything was dry there. Is the other end of the rubber hoses clamped or crimped?
It doesnt seem "rusty" to me in a bad sense. It seems "rusty" to me as in its a 1995 from the midwest lol, pretty standard on anything you buy here. Im in Cincinnati Ohio and the car came from near cleveland, forget where it was befor that but around the same part of the country, so it may not have seen snow but it probably got risidual road salt spray. I know the car sat for awhile, no idea where or really how long though. I dunno, in my eyes its not that rusty for a 20 year old car for these parts, she isnt a show car. Shes a toy.
I was thinking the fuel tank rust was just on some sort of shell and the actual tank is plastic or something? is that not the case?
It doesnt seem "rusty" to me in a bad sense. It seems "rusty" to me as in its a 1995 from the midwest lol, pretty standard on anything you buy here. Im in Cincinnati Ohio and the car came from near cleveland, forget where it was befor that but around the same part of the country, so it may not have seen snow but it probably got risidual road salt spray. I know the car sat for awhile, no idea where or really how long though. I dunno, in my eyes its not that rusty for a 20 year old car for these parts, she isnt a show car. Shes a toy.
I was thinking the fuel tank rust was just on some sort of shell and the actual tank is plastic or something? is that not the case?
Last edited by trilkb; 05-19-2016 at 08:37 PM.
#7
Your not going to be happy with this. looks like new lines and tank
Last edited by antfarmer2; 05-19-2016 at 08:38 PM.
#8
I cant even find the lines for sale anywhere lol. I guess they need to be custom made or just use flex line?
Any reason on why a new fuel tank? Just preventive?
Any reason on why a new fuel tank? Just preventive?
Last edited by trilkb; 05-19-2016 at 08:55 PM.
#9
#10
Hairdryer was to soften the rubberish fuel filler bib for removal.
#11
Rear end off as in bumper? Or rear end as in diff? I have no issues taking the bumper off. Can't be to terrible, I did tear downs in a body shop for awhile lol. That's basically the biggest issue right now, I can't see anything. I'm thinking cut the hard line, undo the rubber hose clamps at the pump, then just buy rubber hose and dual clamp it on the hardline like it is at the pump?
Hairdryer was to soften the rubberish fuel filler bib for removal.
Hairdryer was to soften the rubberish fuel filler bib for removal.
#12
#13
#16
I guess I had to say it.
If the entire c4 was engineered as well as the morons designed the rear bumper it would be worth so much money.
I just spent an hour and a half fisting the rear bumper. Broke one tail light housing too and it still isn't budging. Wtf!
If the entire c4 was engineered as well as the morons designed the rear bumper it would be worth so much money.
I just spent an hour and a half fisting the rear bumper. Broke one tail light housing too and it still isn't budging. Wtf!
#17
1) remove rear wheels2) remove screws into rear bumper which attach rear wheel well to rear bumper3) disconnect support bar (underneath) bumper side only4) remove license, tail lights, and side markers (and disconnect plugs)5) reach in thru tail light holes and remove (or loosen) 10mm nuts
QUOTE=trilkb;1592276418]I guess I had to say it.
If the entire c4 was engineered as well as the morons designed the rear bumper it would be worth so much money.
I just spent an hour and a half fisting the rear bumper. Broke one tail light housing too and it still isn't budging. Wtf![/QUOTE]
Told you, you would not be happy.
QUOTE=trilkb;1592276418]I guess I had to say it.
If the entire c4 was engineered as well as the morons designed the rear bumper it would be worth so much money.
I just spent an hour and a half fisting the rear bumper. Broke one tail light housing too and it still isn't budging. Wtf![/QUOTE]
Told you, you would not be happy.
Last edited by antfarmer2; 05-23-2016 at 08:43 PM.
#18
Can't reach through tail light holes on a 95, and I broke a bulb housing trying to remove it. They screw in from the back with bolts. So unless you spend time removing those bolts while blind you won't be going through there lol.
Nothing listed there about the 6? 7mm bolts along the top edge either. I got 5 loose so far and it still won't budge, makes me wonder if I'm removing the wrong screws lol. They have been a major pain and I have no clue how you'd ever get them back in lol.
Nothing listed there about the 6? 7mm bolts along the top edge either. I got 5 loose so far and it still won't budge, makes me wonder if I'm removing the wrong screws lol. They have been a major pain and I have no clue how you'd ever get them back in lol.
Last edited by trilkb; 05-23-2016 at 08:57 PM.
#19
Might find another way but think you better get the tail lights out. And yes the six smaller ones had to come out too. Taking the fuel door off and bib can help. Go from there or the plate hole to get to the inside tail lights. Then go in those holes to get to the outside ones.
Last edited by antfarmer2; 05-23-2016 at 09:06 PM.
#20
Ah, I found another write up. States to remove the inner housing then use its hole for access to remove the other housing. Seems like I've been going in the right direction everywhere else.