Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Results, regardless of the product(s) used depends on the preparation of the paint, and the paint itself.

1 oz of Dawn dish washing in a gallon or so of warm water and a foam car-wash sponge will strip (whatever) wax/polish is on there.

If the paint has issues, fix them first by whatever necessary means needed to accomplish a base paint, ready for polymer/wax (whatever).

Clay bar or buffer the base. Clay bar = great for good paint prior to shine product application. I agree, an orbital buffer (e.g., a Porter Cable 7424) with a fine foam pad and a very mild cleaner/polish may be required if there are swirls in the paint you warrant attention.
Shine product notes:
First is color: Just about anything looks good on WHITE. It's BLACK (especially) and dark colors in general that are the "acid test" of shine products. Extra attention is required to preparing the paint (e.g., swirls and especially on BLACK)

Two significantly different shine products to chose from-
There's the natural or synthetic WAXes (carnauba wax or the like) or Synthetic polymer "polishes". Both have their advantages.

Depending on the condition of the paint, BOTH of these groups work very well, depending on how they are applied and how much is applied.

The two differences I found are the waxes (carnauba) are harder to maintain, primarily due to the fact that heat (sunlight) softens the wax, turning it into virtual "quicksand". In sunlight (read: HOT wax), any pollen, or dust floating on the breeze and the wax will act like flypaper! In no time at all, a bluish haze begins to form and the cure is to strip and re-apply again (and again and again and again). And, should anything brush the paint or someone touch it especially while in the sun, the surface is marred and can't be buffed out until the paint is cool again.

The polymers once applied and cured are practically impervious to pollen and dust and finger prints, etc. and can often be wiped clean with a duster. even in direct sun w/o ill effects to the shine. When I was using carnauba products on my black car, to keep that clear black, "wet tar" look w/ no haze, I'd have to strip it and clay-bar it once if not twice a season. With polymer I stripped and polished my black Vette ONE TIME in the 4 years before I traded it for the Z. And, as for the Z, only once did I strip and reapply the polymer - only washed it and spritzed it with a final gloss enhancer/buffing, up until I had to have it repainted to match all over when the front bumper and hood got broken.

And, generally speaking, you get what you pay for, beit wax or polymers (or whatever*). Many complain about the initial cost, or having to go on line to buy some of the high-end products (not to say such products don't sometimes exist on store shelves). But, what makes the difference is the durability.

ALL THAT SAID.... There was a car on the recent mountain run that had undergone a professional application of a special polymer treatment that is applied at only a handful of shops around the country. It was the deepest, clearest, most durable polish I've ever seen. The downside was the application costs: almost 2 grand... But, hey! for a showcar polish that is touted as practically impermeable...maybe it's worth it!?

In short:

Prep is everything
Everything looks good when first applied
White/light colors easiest to maintain, BLACK is the crucible of all shine products! (ask anyone with a black car!)
Polymers are much more durable and perhaps provide better UV protection. But, (some say) that wax (carnauba) produces a warmer glow and is better at filling in swirls, etc.
Everyone has their favorite. Use what makes you happiest!!

Originally Posted by jay23ls

Yup. We might look a little looney blow drying our rides but we can't care what the neighbors think. What do they know, taking their their big ol, cookie cutter sedans SUVs to the typical car wash spot!

That Shine product looks great btw. Would love to get a bird poop resistant barrier on the paint which is what I hear it does