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I am trying to learn how to get a great finish on my car plus maintain it. But, I am confused I do not know what products (no retail names) do what and which is best. I have been searching through the forum & U-Tube for step by step instructions for taking care of the exterior of a car but have found none I liked.
I stopped by a Corvette Dealer who put on a Polishing demonstration and they were using an Orbital Hand Held Buffer. They frowned against the novice using a rotary buffer. They OK?? I would like to learn How and What the products do from start to finish after the car is washed. Example: Strip old wax, Buff with compounds, Clay Bar, Polish and or Wax.
Your help & instructions are appreciated in advance
Be careful! Once you get sucked in there's no turning back. I don't often even wash my truck but I'll happily spend days washing waxing and polishing the Corvette. I know Adams polishes has many videos on their website and I'm certain other vendors do as well. There are many buffers suitable for a beginner Porter cable, Griots, Adams just to name a few. I personally don't use a machine but do everything by hand. If you need to do paint corrections then a machine is needed. Good luck and have fun. What Corvette dealers detail clinic did you attend? I know your not looking for product names but I use Adams products and am happy with them. I see your in Boston among other places, are you going to the Gate City Corvette Club Spring Fling tomorrow?
Dave
first of all, unless you are experienced in using a rotary polisher, stay away. you want to get a random-orbital polisher such as a proter-cable 7424, with a series of foam pads. I know you said no name brands, but meguirers is an excellent source for pads and paint cleaners/polishes. also, get a copy of this DVD - http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/pcdvd.html . the random-orbital is a bit more work than the rotary, but a whole lot safer.
I just did my 90 - started off with a good wash, clay bar, medium cut cleaner with a medium pad, followed by a fine cut cleaner and finishing pad. I really like meguirers #205, ultra finishing polish. finished with a machine glaze and hand wax. the original paint on my 90 probably looks as good as day one.
also, get a bundle of new, microfiber towels. a good bang for the buck is a 30 count pack from sam's club - about $12
Be careful! Once you get sucked in there's no turning back. I don't often even wash my truck but I'll happily spend days washing waxing and polishing the Corvette. I know Adams polishes has many videos on their website and I'm certain other vendors do as well. There are many buffers suitable for a beginner Porter cable, Griots, Adams just to name a few. I personally don't use a machine but do everything by hand. If you need to do paint corrections then a machine is needed. Good luck and have fun. What Corvette dealers detail clinic did you attend? I know your not looking for product names but I use Adams products and am happy with them. I see your in Boston among other places, are you going to the Gate City Corvette Club Spring Fling tomorrow?
Dave
Mikes Corvette had a demonstration using the orbital machine at the blessing of the Vette's a few weeks ago. Yes, I will be at the Gate City Spring Fling with the North Shore Corvettes of MA Club. I will be taking my 95 Torch Red C4 with FL tags. I will be parked in the Coral. My name is Tom. Hope to see you there.
Hoping to learn more about Polishing Compounds, Clay Bar Use, Polishes & Waxes.
Tom
I'll be in the Collectors Edition well one of them I think Steve from MA is entering his. Be sure to look me up and we can talk. I look forward to meeting you.
Dave
Tom
I'll be in the Collectors Edition well one of them I think Steve from MA is entering his. Be sure to look me up and we can talk. I look forward to meeting you.
Dave
Results, regardless of the product(s) used depends on the preparation of the paint, and the paint itself.
1 oz of Dawn dish washing in a gallon or so of warm water and a foam car-wash sponge will strip (whatever) wax/polish is on there.
If the paint has issues, fix them first by whatever necessary means needed to accomplish a base paint, ready for polymer/wax (whatever).
Clay bar or buffer the base. Clay bar = great for good paint prior to shine product application. I agree, an orbital buffer (e.g., a Porter Cable 7424) with a fine foam pad and a very mild cleaner/polish may be required if there are swirls in the paint you warrant attention.
(Best way to see swirls is in a darkened room and observing the reflection of a bare bulb or (better yet) a black light - as many paint shops use, BTW.)
Shine product notes:
First is color: Just about anything looks good on WHITE. It's BLACK (especially) and dark colors in general that are the "acid test" of shine products. Extra attention is required to preparing the paint (e.g., swirls and especially on BLACK)
Two significantly different shine products to chose from-
There's the natural or synthetic WAXes (carnauba wax or the like) or Synthetic polymer "polishes". Both have their advantages.
Depending on the condition of the paint, BOTH of these groups work very well, depending on how they are applied and how much is applied.
The two differences I found are the waxes (carnauba) are harder to maintain, primarily due to the fact that heat (sunlight) softens the wax, turning it into virtual "quicksand". In sunlight (read: HOT wax), any pollen, or dust floating on the breeze and the wax will act like flypaper! In no time at all, a bluish haze begins to form and the cure is to strip and re-apply again (and again and again and again). And, should anything brush the paint or someone touch it especially while in the sun, the surface is marred and can't be buffed out until the paint is cool again.
The polymers once applied and cured are practically impervious to pollen and dust and finger prints, etc. and can often be wiped clean with a duster. even in direct sun w/o ill effects to the shine. When I was using carnauba products on my black car, to keep that clear black, "wet tar" look w/ no haze, I'd have to strip it and clay-bar it once if not twice a season. With polymer I stripped and polished my black Vette ONE TIME in the 4 years before I traded it for the Z. And, as for the Z, only once did I strip and reapply the polymer - only washed it and spritzed it with a final gloss enhancer/buffing, up until I had to have it repainted to match all over when the front bumper and hood got broken.
And, generally speaking, you get what you pay for, beit wax or polymers (or whatever*). Many complain about the initial cost, or having to go on line to buy some of the high-end products (not to say such products don't sometimes exist on store shelves). But, what makes the difference is the durability.
ALL THAT SAID.... There was a car on the recent mountain run that had undergone a professional application of a special polymer treatment that is applied at only a handful of shops around the country. It was the deepest, clearest, most durable polish I've ever seen. The downside was the application costs: almost 2 grand... But, hey! for a showcar polish that is touted as practically impermeable...maybe it's worth it!?
In short:
Prep is everything
Everything looks good when first applied
White/light colors easiest to maintain, BLACK is the crucible of all shine products! (ask anyone with a black car!)
Polymers are much more durable and perhaps provide better UV protection. But, (some say) that wax (carnauba) produces a warmer glow and is better at filling in swirls, etc.
Everyone has their favorite. Use what makes you happiest!!
The claybar removes deposits that are stuck on the paint. If you run your hand lightly over a clean car you will feel little bumps in the paint. After using the claybar you can run your hand over the paint and it will be smooth.
Since I live near a Griot's Garage I use their products.
I start with a good car wash using a soapy water to get rid of wax, grease, etc.
I then go over the bottom area of the car with a tar remover where needed.
I then claybar the car.
Then I wipe the car down with a damp cloth and dry it.
Then I use Griot's 6 inch random orbital buffer and one of their foam pads with their Complete Compound, which starts out as a coarser polish to remove minor defects and breaks down to a very fine polish to give a nice shine. Their buffer is kind of pricey but comes with a lifetime warranty. Mine has done about 10 cars and 6 unlimited hydroplanes with no problems. Hydroplanes are BIG.
After the car is buffed I clean it with water and a damp cloth.
I then use REJEX which is a polymer sealant which is very slippery. Basically nothing sticks to it and anything on the car, such as bird poop, will wash off with a garden hose and a nozzle with no rubbing required. The Rejex will last 4 to 6 months.
My 2000 convertible after I finished with it shortly after buying it. I do not think the previous owner had ever buffed the paint.
Last edited by Kmcoldcars; 05-28-2016 at 02:25 PM.
I used to detail cars. Had to learn a lot w/o the help of youtube, there werent nearly as many tutorials yrs ago. So that's good you've been on there.
Anyway the most important thing you can do to take care of your paint isn't the clay bar-ring, polishing, waxing and all. Its something you already know but I suggest kicking it up a notch: when washing, get as much dirt, grime, dust etc off as best as you can before making any contact w/ the paint and minimize contact after the wash.
You might have heard of the 2 wash bucket method and using a foam gun to try to lift n loosen dirt & dust off the paint before the actual wash down. Also using multiple wash mitts, one exclusively for the dirtier lower parts of the car. I take it farther and now use an electric leaf blower to dry most of my car. It gets all that trapped water out of places that will drip or streak (side mirrors, gas cap area, edges of some windows, etc).
Amazing ... lots of good and correct information posted so far.
Good work guys.
For sure! Its time to give back to the community that's helped answer all my small and big questions even if I've only been here for a couple months lol
I used to detail cars. Had to learn a lot w/o the help of youtube, there werent nearly as many tutorials yrs ago. So that's good you've been on there.
Anyway the most important thing you can do to take care of your paint isn't the clay bar-ring, polishing, waxing and all. Its something you already know but I suggest kicking it up a notch: when washing, get as much dirt, grime, dust etc off as best as you can before making any contact w/ the paint and minimize contact after the wash.
You might have heard of the 2 wash bucket method and using a foam gun to try to lift n loosen dirt & dust off the paint before the actual wash down. Also using multiple wash mitts, one exclusively for the dirtier lower parts of the car. I take it farther and now use an electric leaf blower to dry most of my car. It gets all that trapped water out of places that will drip or streak (side mirrors, gas cap area, edges of some windows, etc).
Post some pics of your first detail!
Here's a couple of pic's from last week at a meet. Since these pi's were taken the wheels have been removed and are being refinished. I have ugly temp wheels on it for a couple weeks now Uggggg. The engine compartment is a labor of love in progress. I spend every chance I get getting the Engine & Compartment to where I want them to look. I will tackle the Upper/lower control arms, brakes & shocks soon. It's not 100% to where I want the car yet, but it will be
I used to detail cars. Had to learn a lot w/o the help of youtube, there werent nearly as many tutorials yrs ago. So that's good you've been on there.
Anyway the most important thing you can do to take care of your paint isn't the clay bar-ring, polishing, waxing and all. Its something you already know but I suggest kicking it up a notch: when washing, get as much dirt, grime, dust etc off as best as you can before making any contact w/ the paint and minimize contact after the wash.
You might have heard of the 2 wash bucket method and using a foam gun to try to lift n loosen dirt & dust off the paint before the actual wash down. Also using multiple wash mitts, one exclusively for the dirtier lower parts of the car. I take it farther and now use an electric leaf blower to dry most of my car. It gets all that trapped water out of places that will drip or streak (side mirrors, gas cap area, edges of some windows, etc).
Post some pics of your first detail!
Two excellent points!
I use the two bucket rule too, and leaf blower is prolly the one single best thing for minimizing swirls. And, ironically, the more the car is washed, the faster that "patina" (read: fine scratches) accumulate and the sooner one needs to strip/buff (again).
Oh, OP, a clay bar is a soft very pliable "clay" that is impregnated with a very fine abrasive.
To use one you simply spritz (spray bottle) the surface of a small section of paint with water laced with a couple drops or so of (Dawn) dish washing detergent. Start at the top surfaces and working your way down, cleaning the rockerslast. Rub the bar back and forth across the wetted surface until you feel the resistance (drag) disappear. At that point the paint is clean and you can move onto another section. Just be sure to keep the paint wet enough (you'll quickly learn how much is "just enough" water.)
Before beginning the next section, fold the clay bar (called "kneeding") so as to keep the clay bar surface as clean/fresh as possible. (Note: I recommend a new clay bar for each time clay bar a car.)
When done with the clay, I wash the car to get rid of the residue, blow dry it (leaf blower) and now it is ready for the shine product of your choice.
I believe the less rubbing the paint, the better, generally speaking. As for car covers, I avoid them, especially if the car is in a closed garage. If it has to sit outside, at least get a cover that has a soft (flannel?) lining and secure it tightly so it especially cannot flap in the wind (scrubbing the paint with dirt in the process!).
Shine (below) is a polymer; "rock hard", does not soften in the sun. Impervious to pollen, dust, fingerprints, etc., etc.
Last edited by Paul Workman; 05-29-2016 at 09:45 AM.
Yup. We might look a little looney blow drying our rides but we can't care what the neighbors think. What do they know, taking their their big ol, cookie cutter sedans SUVs to the typical car wash spot!
That Shine product looks great btw. Would love to get a bird poop resistant barrier on the paint which is what I hear it does
Here's a couple of pic's from last week at a meet. Since these pi's were taken the wheels have been removed and are being refinished. I have ugly temp wheels on it for a couple weeks now Uggggg. The engine compartment is a labor of love in progress. I spend every chance I get getting the Engine & Compartment to where I want them to look. I will tackle the Upper/lower control arms, brakes & shocks soon. It's not 100% to where I want the car yet, but it will be
Man your C4 looks great. You don't need my car wash expertise
Tom
I'll be in the Collectors Edition well one of them I think Steve from MA is entering his. Be sure to look me up and we can talk. I look forward to meeting you.
Dave
I found you car and stopped by a few times to meet you. We had to leave at 2pm to attend a grandchild ball game. Your car looks awesome and I hope you won your class. Your rotors were impressive. Again, Great looking collectors series 👍
Autogeek.net is where you want to go. Spend the next several days reading everything they have there. Pay special attention to anything Mike Phillips says, he's basically the best detailer in the country (or well, was until he moved into being a technical guy at Autogeek). They're over in Stuart Florida and put on classes and shows and such all the time too.
Auto geek is the best. Mike Phillips has once in awhile free detail classes. Next door to auto geek is "impressions" car detailing. He is one of the best detailer sout there. He detailed for Barret Jackson. He specializes in paint correction. Not cheap but fantastic. He also helps out mike Phillips. He did my car and it was like a new paint job
05-28-2016, 05:44 AM
Wax, Strip, Claybar, Polish "Help"
I do not know what products (no retail names) do what and which is best. I have been searching through the forum & U-Tube for step by step instructions for taking care of the exterior of a car but have found none I liked.
Two excellent points! 
