John1995

alright peeps so i took it to the shop and the engine is seized up, he said its possible to rebuild but its more cost efficient to buy a used motor for it. i think i can save the engine though, i have a feeling its not completely wrecked considering it wasn't being driven when it seized up, it happened after i drove it but still turned over for a while before it finally froze up. the mechanic thinks it was just the oil pump that caused it. anyone have experience saving a seized engine? i think its possible but he just doesn't want to take the time to rebuild it.

i guess i'm just gonna tinker with it pretty much and just cut my losses if it really is completely shot to hell, was a fun couple weeks of driving lol, can understand why y'all love em so much

73n95

This just doesn't sound right. Engines that seize usually do so while running. I can't help think there is more to the story. If it is indeed seized from the conditions you describe it should be able to free up with penetrating oil or such. It will still be shot, but it should turn over. I'm really not comfortable with the "seized" diagnosis. By the way, sorry for your loss.

John1995

so I've been trying to get as much info as i can from the mechanic, he doesn't think there is anything wrong with the pistons or heads. he said the crank wasn't getting enough oil and the bearings are seized up. doesn't seem like he really tried to free the engine up, only put a few drips of oil in the cylinders lol. im gonna drench the thing with pblaster for a couple days and see if i can get it to turnover. just got it back and i guess a free diagnoses is they take **** apart and dont put it back.... bloody f#$@ing hell

AgentEran

Do you recall your oil pressure previous to the no start condition?

John1995

alright so yesterday i removed the spark plugs and fuel spilled out of them, i sprayed some penetrating lube down each cylinder let it sit and the i was able to rotate it pretty easily. i dont think it was ever seized up. i went to go drain the oil today to see if there was any metal in there and about 5 gallons of a gas and oil mixture came out. anyone know what would cause that much fuel to enter the oil pan? i read in the manual it could be a bad fuel pressure regulator, and the only other thing i read it could be was bad fuel injectors, how do i test these two things? anyone know any other causes for so much fuel in the oil?

jsmn4vu

Sounds as though it wasn't seized up at all; what it was, was hydrolocked. It just may be in great condition once you solve the source of the excess fuel. Leaky injector or injectors would be my first guess. Good luck!

73n95

Bad injectors will do this on any vehicle. This condition is not unheard of in the motorcycle world either. The kawasaki Concours 1000 was known for having carb floats that would not seal off the flow. As the bike sat fuel could flow through a partially opened intake valve and fill the cylinder associated with that carb. As the bike was cranked over a good cylinder would fire and the fuel filled cylinder hydrolocked, bending the crank or a connecting rod. Your situation is similar but it sounds like several cylinders filled up. Fuel can flow past rings aand into the oil pan. You are lucky it didn't start. Diluted oil will destroy an engine. The symptoms you describe sound like a bad pressure regulator or such. More likely than not the engine will be OK once you find the culprit. Good luck.

scrappy76

Most likely a bad pressure regulator or a bad injector. Your cylinder or cylinders filled with gas and hydrolocked the motor as said. with it not running you engine should be fine once you get all the gas out. when you get it running, change your oil a few times to get all the gas out. You do not want to destroy your bearings. If it ends up being any injectors, just replace them all to be safe.

John1995

I replaced the regulator and put fresh oil and filter in, all new plugs too(the old ones were way off with the gap). the dam thing fired up on the first try, the engine sounds better than before and its super smooth. there is a lot of smoke though coming out the tail pipe...no fuel smell in the oil or around the engine. i didn't drive it i just let it idle for about 20 minutes, im gonna let it run for a while tomorrow and change the oil again just to be safe. im guessing it normal for it too smoke like that? considering how much fuel/oil i drained out.

scrappy76

That's great. Glad to hear you got it running. And just think, a few days ago the shop said your motor is locked up. Make sure you go by there and show him how you unlocked it.

I am not sure how long it might take but gas was all over the place in your motor. so it might clear out once your valve seals are swelled up again and all the gas and fumes are out of the system, including the exhaust. Sounds as if your regulator went haywire just started dumping gas all thruout.

John1995

i just started it this morning and no smoke!! running perfect but the fan isn't turning on, anyone know the cause of the fan not turning on? sorry for so many question lol

73n95

The fan I assume you mean the engine cooling fan, is controlled by the engine temp. You should be able to bypass the switch and hot wire it to see if it works. I dont know the checking sequence but someone will jump in. By the way, keep and eye, or a nose, on the oil Sniff the dip stick and make sure it is not fuel diluted. You may pick up some residual gas from the various engine gaskets and such. Gasoline in the oil will destroy the bearings. You don't want that to happen for lack of an oil change.

John1995

the cooling fan and the ac fan only switch on if the ac is on? how many wires should come out of the fan switch?(theres only one wire going into the connector, but two holes)didn't see a disconnected wire anywhere tho

scrappy76

My opinion you should change your oil a couple more times. Your engine was full of gas, and gas destroys any time of lubrication. Use conventional oil if you are tight on funds. After a couple changes and letting it run for awhile, you can switch back to synthetic. It will not hurt anything. I am not near my vette right now to check the wires, maybe someone else will chime in. Turn your a/c on to see if the fan kicks in. Are you letting the temp get up to 225-230 ?, My fan doesnt turn on till about 228.

WVZR-1

I'm with "scrappy76" here. You didn't mention that you actually changed the oil after the first run. You mentioned likely doing it, if it wasn't do it now. I'd think maybe one more very soon. If you did change it as you mentioned after the 20 minute run, did you check it for residue and particles? If you've still got the oil from the change maybe check it, if you've got the filter maybe cut the filter open.

John1995

after draining all the gas out of the engine i only changed the oil once. on the first start up there was alot of smoke. the second start up the next day there was barely any smoke till i drove it around the block a couple times. today i took it around the block again and it started smoking. im thinking its left over gas and i just need to change the oil again, the level of the oil hasn't changed tho but smells a bit like gas or Pb blaster....cant tell which(put a flame to the dipstick and it didnt catch fire so idk). its white smoke btw no blue or black hues to it. if i change the oil again and it starts smelling like gas again then i think i know its the injectors. would the pb blaster cause a lot of smoke? even tho i drained it all out i read the can and it says it has magnetic properties to cling to metal. i don't smell strong fuel fumes like before, it used to smell pretty strong when starting and turning off the engine now i don't smell any fumes. the engine is running super smooth, 10 times better than when i first got it lol

scrappy76

Again, you need to change oil again. You really need to check your fuel pressure. you might still have a leaking injector. Though she is running better, your not out of the woods. I didn't want to say this before, but using any type of pb blaster kinda stuff is not a good idea to unlock anything that depends on lubrication. This is my opinion and experience for you who do not agree.

John1995

think i found the problem with the fan, i pulled the connector out of the water temp sensor and the fans run continuously....i would think its just the sensor that's bad. gonna change the oil and see what the result is.

John1995

yeah it'll only run if i turn the ac on, i did let it get up to about 245 degrees and the fans wouldn't come on.

73n95

I've never been a fan of putting additivevs in the oil. I use what I think is the very best oil for the application and willingly pay the price, whatever that may be. My stand is that oil companies know their product better than anyone. They all use additives that they develop, test and monitor. Their reputation depends on it. Throwing a can of "stuff" in just doesn't make sense unless you have a problem the oil is not intended for. For example oil is not formulated to inhibit burning oil due to bad rings or valves. That's where one of those super sticky things, like STP or Motor Honey comes in. To routinely use these chemicals for a good motor makes no sense to me. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.