C4 How to Replace Windshield Washer Fluid Pump
#1
C4 How to Replace Windshield Washer Fluid Pump
Hi guys,
I decided to make a post for this subject because while replacing the pump for the washer fluid I almost screwed up a perfectly good bottle and pump by prying away at it like an idiot. Although my first idea wasn't to show the whole procedure, I've decided to include that also.
The washer fluid bottle is located behind the passenger's wheel well. To gain access, remove the passenger's side panel. To do so, you'll need to remove 3 - T30 screws and remove 1 10mm bolt at the top of the panel and only loosen the other 10mm bolt at the bottom of the panel just above the rocker panel. Next step, loosen up the wheel well cover to gain access to the washer fluid bottle. You'll the T 30 Torx and the 10mm socket again. That being done, you'll have some room to work in this area.
Now remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the washer bottle in place. Before you can remove the lone, inner bolt you'll need to unclip electric wires from "L" bracket to gain access to that bolt. Then remove the electrical pigtail and spray hose from the base of the pump. Bottle and pump come right out.
This is what it'll look like: (This one in the photo was bought used off of Ebay...So feel free to compliment the talent that led to the overspray!)
(Mine wears a nifty, large rubber ---> for protection!!!)
Next, you'll need to remove the pump from the bottom of the bottle (this is where I almost broke mine). There is a threaded, plastic nut that holds everything together from the inside of the tank along with the screen filter. YOU MUST UNSCREW THIS NUT FROM THE PUMP. DO NOT PRY BECAUSE - 'CRACK' - is an expensive sound in the C4 world. To remove the nut, you'll need a 7/8" or 22mm deep socket with a 12" extension. The other way to remove it, is to pull the pump down and turn it counter-clockwise for 1/3 of a turn (until you run out of room to turn), then press up as you rotate the pump clockwise and then pull down again as you turn counter-clockwise repeating until it comes off. If it isn't too tight it may come off this way. This is what it looks like once off.
Now to replace the pump, you will need the 7/8" or 22mm deep socket and 12" extension. I don't think that there is another way of putting it back together without them. Once screwed back in, you ready to rock! Connect the electrical pigtail, the spray hose.
Here's a little "Pain In The ***" Avoider for you:
As for re-installing the 3 10mm bolts, the one that is by itself on the right side of the bottle, which seats closest to the motor - has an "L" bracket that has a hole in it, which holds the wires that lead to the pump - That bracket needs to be in the "3 o'clock" position before and while you tighten that bolt. It has a tendency to fall down into the "6 o'clock" position due to gravity and cannot be returned to "3 o'clock" with the bolt in because of the shape of the bottle. So, to avoid doing it twice and swearing non-stop for 10 minutes - HOLD AND KEEP THAT "L" BRACKET IN THE "3 O'CLOCK" POSITION WHILE TIGHTENING THE LONE BOLT. Clip wires to "L" bracket, tighten the 2 other bolts. Replace side panel and - Let the good times roll!
Take care Corvette Friends!
I decided to make a post for this subject because while replacing the pump for the washer fluid I almost screwed up a perfectly good bottle and pump by prying away at it like an idiot. Although my first idea wasn't to show the whole procedure, I've decided to include that also.
The washer fluid bottle is located behind the passenger's wheel well. To gain access, remove the passenger's side panel. To do so, you'll need to remove 3 - T30 screws and remove 1 10mm bolt at the top of the panel and only loosen the other 10mm bolt at the bottom of the panel just above the rocker panel. Next step, loosen up the wheel well cover to gain access to the washer fluid bottle. You'll the T 30 Torx and the 10mm socket again. That being done, you'll have some room to work in this area.
Now remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the washer bottle in place. Before you can remove the lone, inner bolt you'll need to unclip electric wires from "L" bracket to gain access to that bolt. Then remove the electrical pigtail and spray hose from the base of the pump. Bottle and pump come right out.
This is what it'll look like: (This one in the photo was bought used off of Ebay...So feel free to compliment the talent that led to the overspray!)
(Mine wears a nifty, large rubber ---> for protection!!!)
Next, you'll need to remove the pump from the bottom of the bottle (this is where I almost broke mine). There is a threaded, plastic nut that holds everything together from the inside of the tank along with the screen filter. YOU MUST UNSCREW THIS NUT FROM THE PUMP. DO NOT PRY BECAUSE - 'CRACK' - is an expensive sound in the C4 world. To remove the nut, you'll need a 7/8" or 22mm deep socket with a 12" extension. The other way to remove it, is to pull the pump down and turn it counter-clockwise for 1/3 of a turn (until you run out of room to turn), then press up as you rotate the pump clockwise and then pull down again as you turn counter-clockwise repeating until it comes off. If it isn't too tight it may come off this way. This is what it looks like once off.
Now to replace the pump, you will need the 7/8" or 22mm deep socket and 12" extension. I don't think that there is another way of putting it back together without them. Once screwed back in, you ready to rock! Connect the electrical pigtail, the spray hose.
Here's a little "Pain In The ***" Avoider for you:
As for re-installing the 3 10mm bolts, the one that is by itself on the right side of the bottle, which seats closest to the motor - has an "L" bracket that has a hole in it, which holds the wires that lead to the pump - That bracket needs to be in the "3 o'clock" position before and while you tighten that bolt. It has a tendency to fall down into the "6 o'clock" position due to gravity and cannot be returned to "3 o'clock" with the bolt in because of the shape of the bottle. So, to avoid doing it twice and swearing non-stop for 10 minutes - HOLD AND KEEP THAT "L" BRACKET IN THE "3 O'CLOCK" POSITION WHILE TIGHTENING THE LONE BOLT. Clip wires to "L" bracket, tighten the 2 other bolts. Replace side panel and - Let the good times roll!
Take care Corvette Friends!
Last edited by LittleRedC-Vette; 07-01-2016 at 09:12 AM.
#2
Instructor
Never Too Late!
LittleRedC-Vette;
I’m reading your post four years after you submitted it, and all I can say is Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! That post just saved me boucoup time and money in trying to replace my pump. I knew there had to be s trick to it but I couldn’t figure out what it was, so now I know. One question: did you replace the rubber protective boot around the pump and, if so, where did you find it. I’ve searched high-and-low and cannot find a source of supply.
Thanks in advance!
SnorT91Man
I’m reading your post four years after you submitted it, and all I can say is Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! That post just saved me boucoup time and money in trying to replace my pump. I knew there had to be s trick to it but I couldn’t figure out what it was, so now I know. One question: did you replace the rubber protective boot around the pump and, if so, where did you find it. I’ve searched high-and-low and cannot find a source of supply.
Thanks in advance!
SnorT91Man
#3
Pro
Old thread I know......
But excellent right up, as for that black rubber protective boot enclosing the pump and wiring pigtail;
It appears to be a small black balloon with a circular hole cut in it for the pump assembly to enter the reservoir tank.
Thats what I used to replace it, worked great.
But excellent right up, as for that black rubber protective boot enclosing the pump and wiring pigtail;
It appears to be a small black balloon with a circular hole cut in it for the pump assembly to enter the reservoir tank.
Thats what I used to replace it, worked great.