1994 LT1 Stumbles above 215 degrees
#1
1994 LT1 Stumbles above 215 degrees
Hi Gang
I'm baffled at this behavior. My 94 runs awesome until the temp gauge hits approximately 215. Once there, it falls off the cliff....stumbling, pinging etc. I can drive from here in New Jersey to Florida on the highway and the thing will stay at a nice 185 degrees and run perfectly all day, but as soon as I get in traffic and go above 215 I have this problem. I have put in a new OPTI, plugs, wires, ICM, cleaned the MAF & Throttle Body, had the ECM checked at a service center. I had a code only once, H44, but the O2 sensor checked out OK also at the shop. No codes recently. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!!.. I love my C4 until this starts, then I just want to park it!!
Thanks
RM
I'm baffled at this behavior. My 94 runs awesome until the temp gauge hits approximately 215. Once there, it falls off the cliff....stumbling, pinging etc. I can drive from here in New Jersey to Florida on the highway and the thing will stay at a nice 185 degrees and run perfectly all day, but as soon as I get in traffic and go above 215 I have this problem. I have put in a new OPTI, plugs, wires, ICM, cleaned the MAF & Throttle Body, had the ECM checked at a service center. I had a code only once, H44, but the O2 sensor checked out OK also at the shop. No codes recently. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!!.. I love my C4 until this starts, then I just want to park it!!
Thanks
RM
#2
Hi Gang
I'm baffled at this behavior. My 94 runs awesome until the temp gauge hits approximately 215. Once there, it falls off the cliff....stumbling, pinging etc. I can drive from here in New Jersey to Florida on the highway and the thing will stay at a nice 185 degrees and run perfectly all day, but as soon as I get in traffic and go above 215 I have this problem. I have put in a new OPTI, plugs, wires, ICM, cleaned the MAF & Throttle Body, had the ECM checked at a service center. I had a code only once, H44, but the O2 sensor checked out OK also at the shop. No codes recently. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!!.. I love my C4 until this starts, then I just want to park it!!
Thanks
RM
I'm baffled at this behavior. My 94 runs awesome until the temp gauge hits approximately 215. Once there, it falls off the cliff....stumbling, pinging etc. I can drive from here in New Jersey to Florida on the highway and the thing will stay at a nice 185 degrees and run perfectly all day, but as soon as I get in traffic and go above 215 I have this problem. I have put in a new OPTI, plugs, wires, ICM, cleaned the MAF & Throttle Body, had the ECM checked at a service center. I had a code only once, H44, but the O2 sensor checked out OK also at the shop. No codes recently. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!!.. I love my C4 until this starts, then I just want to park it!!
Thanks
RM
#4
#5
#6
#7
Le Mans Master
IMO car needs driven with scanner to see what is happening. Audible pinging is an unusual condition and will cause ESC (knock sensors) to retard timing trying to stop it . Coolant level and condition of the little "steam" hoses at rear of heads ? Possibly some localized overheating? Any repairs prior to this happening?
#8
IMO car needs driven with scanner to see what is happening. Audible pinging is an unusual condition and will cause ESC (knock sensors) to retard timing trying to stop it . Coolant level and condition of the little "steam" hoses at rear of heads ? Possibly some localized overheating? Any repairs prior to this happening?
#9
Could be do you have any leaks? The hotter the more it will open changing the o2 to the o2s. If you are hitting 215 on the freeway I would pull and clean your radiator and clean ac coils. Pull your knocks flush and fill.
Last edited by antfarmer2; 08-26-2016 at 06:03 PM.
#10
No...on the freeway i'm golden...it'll stay under 200 degrees on the freeway all day. This only happens in traffic. In fact when this starts, i jump on the highway for a few exits and it drops right back down to 200 and the stumbling almost goes away..driving me crazy!!
#11
I would change the front two o2s and hope it is not the opti. Testing the icm and coil would not hurt either.
#14
Might checl your temp sensor on your water pump too.
#15
Thanks gang....Update!
I had all o2's changed and things have improved considerably, but we didnt get into the end zone yet..
here's the latest:
The car ran great on the highway ( a/c is OFF ), but after about 2 miles at 70mph the check engine light came on....H63 code. The fan turned on ( the one that's only supposed to turn on if we hit 228, or if the a/c is on ) and it stayed on so it never went over 185 degrees.
I shut her down and start her back up, and the check engine light is gone. It stays off until i get on the highway again, and then it lights up again.
Also, I see a white wire disconnected from the front right heated O2, but is that normal?
still frustrated, but feeling like we are getting close. It still pings over 215, but much less now.
thanks
Ray
I had all o2's changed and things have improved considerably, but we didnt get into the end zone yet..
here's the latest:
The car ran great on the highway ( a/c is OFF ), but after about 2 miles at 70mph the check engine light came on....H63 code. The fan turned on ( the one that's only supposed to turn on if we hit 228, or if the a/c is on ) and it stayed on so it never went over 185 degrees.
I shut her down and start her back up, and the check engine light is gone. It stays off until i get on the highway again, and then it lights up again.
Also, I see a white wire disconnected from the front right heated O2, but is that normal?
still frustrated, but feeling like we are getting close. It still pings over 215, but much less now.
thanks
Ray
The following users liked this post:
antfarmer2 (09-04-2016)
#16
Good job. now finish hooking up your o2 sensors.
Clean your radiator and test the temp sensor on your water pump but burp the air out first it has two bleeders there. Do not get your opti wet.
Clean your radiator and test the temp sensor on your water pump but burp the air out first it has two bleeders there. Do not get your opti wet.
Last edited by antfarmer2; 09-04-2016 at 08:48 PM.
#17
Advanced
At $71, that is by far the best price I have seen, so I recently bought one. Most places sell it for about $250.
You won't need a cable adapter; the 16-pin one that comes with it will work for you. You can monitor most of the real time data that is available as well as the trouble codes.
But I cannot say absolutley for sure it will work in a Corvette car with the CCM and other modules. I assume so, since it can be set to that vehicle.
The following users liked this post:
antfarmer2 (09-15-2016)
#19
Door panel drill a hole on a slight angle just under the inter door sweep rubber lip. Then put a inch and a half screw in it to hook over the door frame it will be totally hidden.
The roof rub dielectric grease on the rubber seals both sides and tighten the back first.
#20
good job
Door panel drill a hole on a slight angle just under the inter door sweep rubber lip. Then put a inch and a half screw in it to hook over the door frame it will be totally hidden.
The roof rub dielectric grease on the rubber seals both sides and tighten the back first.
Door panel drill a hole on a slight angle just under the inter door sweep rubber lip. Then put a inch and a half screw in it to hook over the door frame it will be totally hidden.
The roof rub dielectric grease on the rubber seals both sides and tighten the back first.