Need Info from Car Show Buffs
#2
Drifting
I'm a firm believer in Griots Garage products. There is plenty of literature on their website to understand what is needed for a proper cleaning.
You'll find options vary on which products to use, but most important is to understand how to properly prepare and detail a vehicle. Without proper technique the results wont be good and you can potentially damage your finish.
You'll find options vary on which products to use, but most important is to understand how to properly prepare and detail a vehicle. Without proper technique the results wont be good and you can potentially damage your finish.
The following users liked this post:
myC4L98 (08-26-2016)
The following users liked this post:
myC4L98 (08-26-2016)
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: May 2000
Location: Plantation Florida USAF(Retired) 1966-1990
Posts: 47,895
Received 4,505 Likes
on
3,590 Posts
U.S. Air Force
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
These are the experts when it comes to car waxes, and remember some waxes are made for only black cars. They are vender on the forum.
http://www.autogeek.net
I use Pinnacle, made for black cars, great shine.
http://www.autogeek.net
I use Pinnacle, made for black cars, great shine.
The following users liked this post:
myC4L98 (08-26-2016)
The following users liked this post:
myC4L98 (08-26-2016)
#7
Race Director
I've found that much like painting a car, the prep work BEFORE the wax makes a huge difference in the results. I wash first and then use CLAY BAR (either Mothers of Meguiars brand) The clay bar removes all of the oxidation and grit that has embedded itself in the paint over the years. It's a lot of work, but when you are done, the paint is smooth, clean and slick as glass. Put your wax over that and you'll be amazed how deep and reflective it will be! It also makes the waxing and buffing a LOT easier with a fresh surface after 'claying'.
#8
Melting Slicks
I played with a clay bar a few years ago and felt like I spent the better part of a day playing kung fu kid with the wax on wx off endless rub and rinse. To be honest just lowered my expectations one notch for a daily driver.
#9
Race Director
Member Since: Feb 2002
Location: Compound in the Grove, Ga.
Posts: 11,329
Received 910 Likes
on
583 Posts
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods)
2018 C4 of Year Finalist
2015 C4 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '16
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Its not so much what you use as how you use it and how hard you work at it. I think I've used about all of it in the last 40+ years. I'm into Adams products right now. 91 original paint.
#10
Melting Slicks
What Klondike said - prepwork. On a dark car I would use Meguiar's #7 followed by a Brazillian 100% Carnuba wax (w/o cleaners), like the old Megs #26. That's what I would use for concours - the car will glow like a ****.
This car has no wax on it.
This car has no wax on it.
#11
Race Director
I've found that much like painting a car, the prep work BEFORE the wax makes a huge difference in the results. I wash first and then use CLAY BAR (either Mothers of Meguiars brand) The clay bar removes all of the oxidation and grit that has embedded itself in the paint over the years. It's a lot of work, but when you are done, the paint is smooth, clean and slick as glass. Put your wax over that and you'll be amazed how deep and reflective it will be! It also makes the waxing and buffing a LOT easier with a fresh surface after 'claying'.
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
Posts: 20,161
Received 640 Likes
on
444 Posts
St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24