shootnstarz

Are all six U joints the same AC Delco part #, 45U0107? I only see this number listed for "prop shaft" front & rear, nothing about half shafts.

This one has the grease fitting, are you guys replacing them with grease fittings in'um or the dry version?

Really looking forward to this job, I hope it stops the strange sound coming from the rear when I'm coasting.

Rick
89 Auto

JrRifleCoach

Search......This subject has been covered so often you can't miss it.

WVZR-1

drive-shaft joints are 1310's and the half-shaft joints are 1350's. With that information you should be able to shop locally for your needs. They ain't all six the same!!!

2airtime2

I recently replaced the 4 half shaft u-joints in my new to me '92. I was getting a slight vibration during very light acceleration (I'm surprised I ever felt it ) and I could feel and hear a slight clunk when I barely rolled with the door open.


Most of the 16 caps were dry, some were missing several needle bearings, and 2 caps had a missing chunk of metal.


I bought NAPA u-joints locally and it was a pretty easy job, smooth as silk now.

hcbph

While you're in there, change the Teflon washer also. If you want some info on doing the half shaft u-joints, check out: http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=144562

It's a thread I found that really helped me out. Additionally I made a couple of tools that helped out which are also added to that thread. Just go to the point of doing the u-joints, you see if includes doing the hubs but if you don't need to change them, stop early.

Hope that helps.

shootnstarz

Thanks to all that gave actual useful information.

Rick

rfn026

Here's more than you really need to know about U-Joints.



Richard Newton

Renfield

Take good notes Rick. I'll be asking you all the same questions if/when I get out from under the hood of the '95. Lovin' that Optispark.

One video I watched showed replacing the tie rod ends as well.

Good luck!

George

shootnstarz

Did you get a newer one George? I thought you had a 90.

And thanks again to those that offered help and not the so typical "use the forum search" comments, this site's search engine is useless.

Rick

JrRifleCoach

Rick, All you need to do is "learn" how to use it. A simple task really. But for some the task of applying ones self when the challenge warrant, is tough. So much easier to simply ask a question and have everyone just give you the answers.

My point is that this forum is ripe with information that has hundreds of thousands of valuable posts. Those guys that learned their C4's the hard way have posted their experiences, good and bad for you to learn from as well. The rule was to lock down old posts was removed (by our requests) a few years ago so people like you could reopen those conversations for further dialog. Not to mention that there are many noobs that havent the experience, and will freely give you the incorrect or wrong advice. So when you start yet another new thread, all your going to get is the knowledge of current users.

Good luck.

drcook

use this in a Google search

c4 u-joints site:https://www.corvetteforum.com

the site command limits it to this site, the C4 helps keep it out of the other gen forums, then you can right click each result and open in a new tab so you don't lose the search results and keep having to back page.

try it out

Renfield

Mine is a '96. Karen's is a '95. Both are "Opti" afflicted. My Petris is up and running. I just installed the AIP Opti in hers and it's not firing.

Half shafts are a re a future project.

G

GUSTO14

Rick, since no one has commented on this yet, I'll tell you what I do. I choose quality joints with grease fittings. I've been doing it that way since I was a teen when my Dad drummed it into my head. He also worked on a lot of machinery and insisted that keeping it alive required constant servicing, especially of the joints and bearings.

I do ensure that all joints are installed so that the grease fitting (hole) is under compression when the vehicle is in forward motion. I have never experienced a failure in this manner. Then again I only do a limited amount of drag racing, but I do a lot of autocrossing.

A number of folks, whose opinions I do respect, feel that having a grease fitting in the U-joint creates a weakness in it and I've seen evidence of some of their failures. I did even install new solid joints in the half-shafts of my '73 at one point. 5 years later with less than 5k miles on them, 3 of the 4 joints were dry as a bone.

Good luck... GUSTO

shootnstarz

What do you mean by "under compression", and tanks for the answer.

Rick

shootnstarz

I have NEVER found any answer in the "search" engine on this site, be it I'm a cyberidiot or not. I also do not wish to read thought a hundred post to try to find my answer when most only mention the topic in passing, if at all.

Using that logic why have a forum? Why not just have a static information page? What if somebody has better information that's not hidden away in a previous post? What if somebody close to me has the same problem and wants to help each other out?

Since "use the search" is the standard answer to any question I post I will now refrain from asking any here, there are other places to get the information.

Thanks yet again to those the gave me useful information. I'm outta here.

Rick

hcbph

One more thing, I'm unsure if the half-shafts are balanced when put in or not as an assembly. When I did mine, I marked everything so I was able to put them back in the same relative position as they came out. If that's important, it's taken care of. If not it won't make any difference. A couple of additional tips: put a piece of carpet under where you're working so when the eventual screw you dropped happens, it won't skitter all over the place. If you do it like I did, you will need a couple of long 3/8" extensions to remove the u-joint straps off the differential along with a regular and deep drive socket. That tool I made for doing the u-joints using a hydraulic press is a very good item if you have access to a press. I've seen similar hand units sold by Tiger Tools but the one I saw was something like $200 and I could not find any place that rented them, so I may my own tool.

Renfield

Don't let one comment get you down, Rick. Just the nature of things. People do and say weird things behind a keyboard. I mean look at his avatar. By all means start every conversation with your poisonous political views up front. By definition, every post he makes is OFF TOPIC in this thread. But apparently the moderators are in his camp, as there are several political "super self-delegates" driving Corvettes. I'm sure if he had more space, you'd get his religious views as well. Yet he's stingy with information that is actually of any use. How to win friends and influence people. NOT.

The search engine on this forum is useless. Google gets better results that often lead back here.

Stick around and share photos and experiences with your U-Joint fix!

George

GUSTO14

Rick, this is the best way that I can describe installing the joint under "compression". In the diagram, as long as torque is applied to the joint in this manner the inherent "weakness" in the joint only sees compression.



Half-shafts and drive shafts are dynamically balanced individually so it should not make any difference how they are reinstalled. Having said that and since you went to the trouble to mark them, if there was no vibration experienced before, if reinstalled in the same way, it's a safe bet you will not experience one afterward.

Good luck... GUSTO