belairbrian

Are you talking about the white tube that comes through the lock ring and holds the horn wire?

jsmcol

Yes, and Brian, you mentioned it too, so need to give you props as well. That tube is supposed to twist and lock I supposed, my white ring that holds in a black tube that has the horn wires running to a contact was broken. This CD trick fixed it and I have horns again!


Thanks for your help.

belairbrian

Really just wanted to understand what part we were discussing. Can't understand why it is believed to be not available. It is still available through the GM catalog and costs $12 on Amazon prime under AC Delco / GM Part # 26047013


Dorman 83232 is about 8 bucks at the LPS.

jsmcol

Brian, I don't think this is the same part. There is a tube that is about 1 1/2 long or so, and is black plastic. The black horn wires go through this tube and connect to a copper connection that has a spring between the tube and the connection so that when pushed into the white plastic part that holds it in place with the other connection, it completes the circuit. The white plastic part has some type of twist lock that the pin must fit into on the side of the black tube. My white part broke in my car, so the wire no longer made connection. I don't think that is the same as the cancelling cam, but I didn't take the whole steering wheel apart to look.


On your picture, you called it the "horn contact wire" and where that goes into the wheel, is where the white part is broken. It actually underneath the metal of the steering wheel, so I didn't want to pull it apart, just did the fix described earlier.

belairbrian

this is the broken part , right? The white tube is part of the turn signal cam and yes you have to remove the wheel to replace it
The cam has the circular horn contact ring on it.

belairbrian

Glad, you got it working, it's really annoying hitting the horn and nothing happens.

If you look at the first pick back in post #11 mine was broken and someone had used some form of sealant to hold it in place.

Just for those who find this thread through search, the wiring from the buttons to the contact is NLA. If the black tube with the lock pins breaks, the easiest way to fix it is to solder and heat shrink a new yellow section onto the original wiring. GM used this set up on pretty much all cars for probably over 30 years. Easy to find in a junk yard or just buy the pigtail. GM coated the junction with a resin, but shrink tube works fine.

jsmcol

Thanks for the info Brian, if I ever take it apart again, I'll try to replace the cancelling cam. For now, it works and I'm not going to mess with it! Next task, to fix the power pass seat and all the bladders in the seats...

belairbrian

That one is so low on my priority list, i figure if you want to ride along live with the way it's adjusted. I did replace the track on the drivers side