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Old 06-23-2004, 08:00 PM
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DonQ
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Default 95 headlight

Help with 1995 headlight diagnosis.
Previously ( when the motor ran on but wouldn't open ) I replaced the bushings and all was well, but this is a different problem.
The driver side headlamp will not open / close, and before I invest in a new or rebuilt motor, I would like to somehow confirm that the motor is the problem and not a relay or ?????
Also, if it turns out to be the motor, does anyoe have any leads for a rebuilt or new @ a decent price ?
Any comments would be appreciated.
Thank You
Old 06-23-2004, 10:36 PM
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carguru
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Default Re: 95 headlight (DonQ)

Can you turn the **** to open them manually? If it can turn easily, the motor brushes are likely hung up or worn out. If the **** binds when turning, you probably have something internal to the motor that broke. Do you hear the motor run at all? If it turns freely, you can pull the unit apart and check the brushes. You will have to do the same procedure to take the unit apart as you did when you replaced the bushings.
Old 06-24-2004, 06:03 PM
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DonQ
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Default Re: 95 headlight (carguru)

Thanks for the tip...
Before I pull it all out, is there a smart way to get confirmation that it is in the motor as opposed to a relay or ????? that could be bad ?
I am not very technical ( as you can see ) but I am ambitious and would like to learn.
Also, if it is the brushes, do the dealers stock them ? Most dealers would just sell you an entire unit I believe......
Thanks
Old 06-24-2004, 10:20 PM
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Default Re: 95 headlight (DonQ)

The things I would try first would be to see if it would open manually to check for binding. This is in case there is something broken that would physically cause it to not work. If it is binding, there might be some broken pieces of gear, etc. You will be able to pull the motor apart to inspect. If it opens fine, this is not the problem.

Second, I would have a second person turn the lights on while listening for the motor in question operate. If no sound, then go to the next step. Does the other light work?

Third, I would get a voltmeter (or testlight) and probe the 2 pin connector for the headlight motor. This will determine whether the headlight control module is causing the problem. If there is no voltage to the headlight motor, then it is possibly the module--or a harness problem. If you do not get any voltage, you can carefully apply 12V to the 2 pins of the headlight motor to drive it open and closed. This will determine whether the motor is bad or not. A note of caution in doing this. Don't let the positive and negative leads touch or you will have a rude surprise. If the harness end of the motor connector has 12V or -12V, then the module should be fine and the motor is at fault.

If the headlight motor is determined to be the culprit, it is worth a shot to take it apart to just see if there is a simple fix such as brush hanging up or a misplaced brush spring, etc. Pull the armature (the piece that has wires wound to it) out the motor. The brushes are located on the plate next to the gear housing. Note if the brushes are able to come into contact with each other. Also note the length of the brushes. A good set of brushes should be able to come in contact with each other (with springs in place pushing them together) and should be more than 1/4" in length. Also both brushes should be nearly the same length. If the brushes are worn or broken, you will have to get a replacement unit. Unfortunately, the only way the motors are available are as a complete unit. There are no repair kits for the motor--only the gears and bushings.

Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair.
Old 06-25-2004, 07:40 AM
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DonQ
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Default Re: 95 headlight (carguru)

Thanks again for your insight

Hopefully I'll be able to get to it this weekend with success

Regards
Old 06-25-2004, 01:24 PM
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Jet-Jock
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Default Re: 95 headlight (DonQ)

You were saying the motor runs but the assembly doesn't go up or down. Does it flop or come loose, but not lock into position as well?

You said you rebuilt it, meaning you cleaned the GM material out and replaced with Delrin bushings?

Generally, what happens is the metal shaft that is pressed into the aluminum cast part will spin. When that happens there's not much you can do but replace the motor. I believe Chris's price is about $240. I had one of mine do that. I tore it down tapped the shaft out some and used both locktite permanent and JB Weld and press the shaft back in. First attempt to open the headlamp it spun again. It just wouldn't hold. Here's a picture, you can see a little bit of the material around the base of the shaft as it presses into the cast part. I used the JB Weld on the other side, but it was no use:

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