Put in New FRAM filter, 5 quarts of Mobil, and a new Fuel Filter....
#1
Put in New FRAM filter, 5 quarts of Mobil, and a new Fuel Filter....
I just did all that, and came in to find threads saying that Fram is crap...
WTH?
I went to autozone to get a new fuel filter, got it, then while I was there I looked at there oil selection. Im still fighting the leaks caused by a few quarts of Mobil1 Full syn. and I wanted the mobil quality, so I went with Mobil High-perf 10w-30.
They had Fram, purolator, Motorcraft, FRAM and AC-DELCO. The only cross-reference books they had were for Frams. so I got my PF30, and went about my way.
took me 45 minutes to get the "ORIGINAL 125K miles" Fuel filter off. The filter that was on it was a "GM Original Part", the lines had never been off it. It was pretty badly plugged, I beat on it for a few seconds, after I got it off, then turned it on its side and orange gas and crud came out...
Should I be concerned that Ive got a Fram on it? Ive got more Oil Pressure now than I did though. I had 30 psi warm before @ idle, and I have 55psi now! I also had a knock when started cold that I dont have now.
The fram is bigger than the purolator that came off it, just a little deeper, it also has the wonderful grip stuff!
Was the mobil oil a wise choice, even though it is still dino-oil?
WTH?
I went to autozone to get a new fuel filter, got it, then while I was there I looked at there oil selection. Im still fighting the leaks caused by a few quarts of Mobil1 Full syn. and I wanted the mobil quality, so I went with Mobil High-perf 10w-30.
They had Fram, purolator, Motorcraft, FRAM and AC-DELCO. The only cross-reference books they had were for Frams. so I got my PF30, and went about my way.
took me 45 minutes to get the "ORIGINAL 125K miles" Fuel filter off. The filter that was on it was a "GM Original Part", the lines had never been off it. It was pretty badly plugged, I beat on it for a few seconds, after I got it off, then turned it on its side and orange gas and crud came out...
Should I be concerned that Ive got a Fram on it? Ive got more Oil Pressure now than I did though. I had 30 psi warm before @ idle, and I have 55psi now! I also had a knock when started cold that I dont have now.
The fram is bigger than the purolator that came off it, just a little deeper, it also has the wonderful grip stuff!
Was the mobil oil a wise choice, even though it is still dino-oil?
#4
Team Owner
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Go to your local NAPA auto parts counter and see the actual product cutaways (Fram vs. Napa Gold filter).
You will see it has a cheap pressure relief valve. It is also capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal.
Those aren't the kind of shortcuts I'm comfortable taking with my oil filters. I'd go with AC/Delco, Wix, Napa Gold, K&N, or Mobil 1.
You will see it has a cheap pressure relief valve. It is also capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal.
Those aren't the kind of shortcuts I'm comfortable taking with my oil filters. I'd go with AC/Delco, Wix, Napa Gold, K&N, or Mobil 1.
#5
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by onedef92
Go to your local NAPA auto parts counter and see the actual product cutaways (Fram vs. Napa Gold filter).
You will see it has a cheap pressure relief valve. It is also capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal.
Those aren't the kind of shortcuts I'm comfortable taking with my oil filters. I'd go with AC/Delco, Wix, Napa Gold, K&N, or Mobil 1.
You will see it has a cheap pressure relief valve. It is also capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal.
Those aren't the kind of shortcuts I'm comfortable taking with my oil filters. I'd go with AC/Delco, Wix, Napa Gold, K&N, or Mobil 1.
#6
Team Owner
I've been using FRAM filters for 30+ years, never had a major motor failure because of them. Back in 1980, my '77 Monte Carlo has a bad cam @ 26k miles, and Chevy replaced the cam and lifters at no cost to me after reviewing my oil change records. The car was off warranty by then, I only paid labor charges. (I did the changes myself and wrote them down in the owner's manual, Fram filters and Pennzoil 10w30- always)
That's the only oil/filter related problem I've had, and it turns out from 1976 to 1977 Chevy has a bad batch of cams for the 305 V8.
That's the only oil/filter related problem I've had, and it turns out from 1976 to 1977 Chevy has a bad batch of cams for the 305 V8.
Last edited by mikeb; 08-25-2004 at 02:08 PM.
#7
Melting Slicks
I wouldn't worry about it, I have used Fram in the past and never had a problem. You problably change your Oil and filter every 3-5000 miles anyway, right? Look at it this way you change the filter way before the filter is going to ware out.
And do you really think Fram would still be in business if they had problems with there filters, I don't think so. Nobody would buy there products.
And do you really think Fram would still be in business if they had problems with there filters, I don't think so. Nobody would buy there products.
#8
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by Mikez40
I wouldn't worry about it, I have used Fram in the past and never had a problem. You problably change your Oil and filter every 3-5000 miles anyway, right? Look at it this way you change the filter way before the filter is going to ware out.
And do you really think Fram would still be in business if they had problems with there filters, I don't think so. Nobody would buy there products.
And do you really think Fram would still be in business if they had problems with there filters, I don't think so. Nobody would buy there products.
Mike
#9
Le Mans Master
"Im still fighting the leaks caused by a few quarts of Mobil1 Full syn. and I wanted the mobil quality, so I went with Mobil High-perf 10w-30."
I just changed my oil, same deal, and someone told me where I'd parked had an oil spot under me... Is this common with regular mobile 1?
Thanks,
Joe
I just changed my oil, same deal, and someone told me where I'd parked had an oil spot under me... Is this common with regular mobile 1?
Thanks,
Joe
#10
I have used Mobil 1 and Amsoil for the past 15 years in all of my vehicles. I swear by the stuff every time it hits -30 degrees and my engine still starts. As for filters - I used to use only Fram. Then I started reading some of the comments about construction techniques. I figure if I only change filters twice a year, I can afford to spend an extra $3.00 or so to get a Purolator instead of a Fram.
Glen
Glen
#11
wow, I was shocked to log on and see this old topic!
So far Ive done pretty good.
No leakes besides a little from the pan. Which is just enough to smear back into the tranny pan. NEver leaves any on the ground!
Only complaint is now I have a knock on start up that I NEVER had prior to using Fram.
So far Ive done pretty good.
No leakes besides a little from the pan. Which is just enough to smear back into the tranny pan. NEver leaves any on the ground!
Only complaint is now I have a knock on start up that I NEVER had prior to using Fram.
#13
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by onedef92
Go to your local NAPA auto parts counter and see the actual product cutaways (Fram vs. Napa Gold filter).
You will see it has a cheap pressure relief valve. It is also capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal.
Those aren't the kind of shortcuts I'm comfortable taking with my oil filters. I'd go with AC/Delco, Wix, Napa Gold, K&N, or Mobil 1.
You will see it has a cheap pressure relief valve. It is also capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal.
Those aren't the kind of shortcuts I'm comfortable taking with my oil filters. I'd go with AC/Delco, Wix, Napa Gold, K&N, or Mobil 1.
I switched from FRAM to the NAPA Gold after seeing the product cut-a-ways.
#14
Now that you know, don't buy it again