WYTEOUT92

My 92 LT1 coupe is in overall very good condition, but the weatherstripping that installs in the targa top, where the side windows meet the top, is pretty dried out and rotted (crumbly)- particularly at the rear end of it. I received new pieces today from Corvette Rubber but no instructions in the box. Will someone who has done this procedure before please shed a little light on how I should go about this?
Thanks-

Jet-Jock

Looks like we are both in a similar boat. Lots of reads but no advice yet. Your talking about the weather strips that attach to the removable roof panel correct?

Those are much easier than the front windshield strip that I'm about to replace. You'll need to get some 3M Adhesive cleaner (spray can) and 3M super adhesive (tube), sealant GM P/N 14064593 or equivalent. I also ordered the tool kit to make the job easier.

The instructions from the service manual for the weatherstrips on the roof panel are as follows:

1. Remove roof panel.
2. Remove screw from rear edge of weatherstrip.
3. Remove weatherstrip from retainer by gently pullng weatherstrip out of side weatherstrip retainer and cutting through adhesive bond with a sharp knife.
4. Remove screws from side weatherstrip retainer.
5. Remove retainer from roof panel by gently pulling retainer loose from adhesive.
6. Remove side weatherstrip portector from roof panel by pulling loose from adhesive.
7. Remove roof panel seals.

Clean retainer, protector and roof panel contact surfaces to remove old adhesive.

1. Install roof panel seals.
2. Apply sealant GM P/N 14064593 or equivalent in a 4mm wide band or if using new protector peel backing from new protector and position protector to roof panel.
3. Position protector as far forward as possible.
4. Apply sealant GM P/N 14064593 or equivalent in a 4mm wide bead to the top of the contact area of the side weatherstrip retainer.
5. Position retainer to roof panel and secure with retainer screws.
Torque screws 2.5 Nm.
6. Apply 3M adhesive to contact area of retainer and insert weatherstrip into retainer.
7. Install screw into rear edge of weatherstrip.
8. Install roof panel.

If you want an image of the illustration let me know and I can post it. Good luck.

blackfastharley

hello 93jetjockey, great info. So how hard is the front windsheild weatherstrip to replace? cause i need one on my ruby also. thanks

Jet-Jock

First everyone recommends using the GM weatherstrip. I got mine from Chris at Superior $200. including shipping.

From what I've read you have to remove the inside front trim, rear view mirror and sunshades. (Why I'm not sure yet) Then the part that is puzzling me is these reveal molding which then talks about installing new reveal molding sealing tape which I can't figure out yet and thumb grade sealant? I posted a question about that but have had no responses. I even stumped Chris at Superior on that one. You also have to pre-fit everything using soapy water first. I'm going to stop by the dealer's body shop and ask about it tomorrow perhaps they can help me get these things. Also it was recommended to install new push-in fasteners, I ordered a half dozen only like .30 each. Its appears very detailed in the service manual, if I am successful I'll have to create something to share with others. There is a link I found c4restore.com but I read the procedures there and they don't seem to jive exactly with the service manual. I'm going to re-read it all again and see what free advice I can get from the dealer. Wish me luck LOL.

WYTEOUT92

Thanks loads, Jockey- you're a life saver.
I would love it if you could post an image of an illustration.
Thanks again

blackfastharley

thanks man. you seem to help lots of us. thanks

Jet-Jock

Your welcome glad to help. Now who's coming over to help me with the front windshield weatherstrip??? LOL. I think I'm going to tackle this one tomorrow just after I replace some shingles on the roof after the stupid hurricane tore them off. Thank goodness it was only like $12.00 for a whole package... damn them things are heavy.

This should help:

Jet-Jock

Not a problem. I was just reading another post on replacing the windshield and 'glassman' who does glass replacement was talking about removing and installing the wxstrip as part of the windshield replace. I posted a couple questions for him hoping he will see the post. I spoke with my guy at Chevy today about this sealant tape and he said its really nothing more than double back sticky tape. Still trying to ascertain info on the thumb grade sealant. As I do with most of the jobs, I photograph the process and will probably create a PDF will illustrations in case anyone needs it. Of course that's assuming I have success with this job. But I think its like a lot of jobs on these vehicles it always looks intimidating at first. I can't tell ya how long I debated on the plug-wire change before I just jumped in and did it. I studied it and could not figure out how you would get at the driver's side plugs much less the opti. But with a few tips and time on my hands I got it done. I figured if the dealer can do it in a few hours I sure as heck can and probably do a much better job.

I'll make a post and let ya'll know about the front weatherstrip.

kize

I have done this front weather strip job. This is what i've learned. First of all you need to remove side hardware and screws. Make note where they go. Trim and screws can be reversed on install which will lead to disaster. Clean all trim with weatherstrip adhesive remover (3M). You will never find the original sealant tape or thumb grade sealer- I know this from experience- but there are alternatives. For the window trim I used Automotive bedding and glazing compond between the window frame and window trim. This seals the frame to the window trim. It can be found at any good auto paint supply shop and sets up but never hardens. (BLACK also 3M). I then used Scotch VM tape between the window trim and weatherstrip channel. (also 3M) It is important to seal between glass trim and weatherstrip retainer- BECAUSE- this is where the dealers and window shops cut corners and I guarantee your window will leak- through the frame and down on your feet and side dash area. I also ran a bead of glaze compond between window trim and weatherstrip channel. It is possible to just remove weatherstrip from channel. You must be patient cleaning all old weatherstrip and glue from channel. Also- when you glue the new front windshield weatherstrip in use 3M weatherstrip glue (black) and run a line on the front leading edge of the inside weatherstrip retainer top and sides. Then install weatherstrip from sides to middle- this worked best for me- the glue on the front leading edge keeps water from getting under the weatherstrip and running down the channel screws- I did all this work and my top does not leak. Good luck

Jet-Jock

Thanks Stan. I'll do a search on the 3M bedding/glazing compound to see where I can find it locally. Thanks for the heads up on the trim/screws I saw that note in the service manual. They said these things are mated to each vehicle during production.

On the bedding/glazing the manual says that if this thumb grade sealant is soaked in water its easier to work with, do you think that applies to the 3M product as well?

The way I understand the instructions is basically and without specific detail: remove the weatherstrip, remove the weatherstrip side retainer, remove the windshield side reveal molding screws, peel the molding from the frame and clean.
Then install the windshield side reveal molding using double sticky tape and this bedding/glazing on each end of the molding, secure with the screws, then install the front weatherstrip side reatiner and then the weatherstrip itself.

Just to be sure on terms the upper windshield and side windshield reveal molding that is that black painted trim the goes around the top and sides of the windshield correct?

It sounds like from reading the manual and your comments that the retainer and molding are installed first with the tape and sealant then the weatherstrip is fitting removed and the 3M adhesive put on then the weatherstrip which gets tucked into the retainers? Does that sound right?

Thanks in advance for your help and insight.

kize

The bedding/glazing compond is a sealer that never hardens. I used it liberaly on all contact sides and full length of weatherstrip retainer( trim side with tape). The sticky tape just fills the imperfections along the molding, but does not seal well. So once you get the tape on the windshield trim , use glaze compond on full length of retainer. You will find 2 sets of trim screws. One set holds the window reveal molding on. Then the weather strip retainer goes on over the molding. When it is secure there will be a a small bead of glaze squeeze out the full length of the weatherstrip retainer. This seals window trim, retainer and mounting screws. Bedding /glaze compond comes in a caulking tube and looks like RTV. You do not mix anything with it. The black window trim around the window is what gm calls window reveal moulding. Yes, the weatherstrip molding is factory fitted and will only go on one way or the holes will not line up. Hope this answers your questions. Oh one other thing- you will find a black strip of tape over the window reveal molding screws- I used wide black 3M electrical tape to replace oem tape. Worked great- its used to cover and help seal. This should make sense when you tear hear apart.

Jet-Jock

Excellent thank you very much. I found 3M™ Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound 08509, I'm trying to locate it locally on the net. I saw a picture on 3M's site comes in a cartrige for the caulk gun. Went I searched for sealant tape I came up with Scotch brand which is a 3M company. I had bought from Home Depot Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape (weather resistant - outdoor use) its a 1.5mil double sticky tape. I wonder if that will work as a replacement.

I think I'm getting the jest of this now. Hopefully all your help and the manual will make the job go smoothly and successfully.