93 Running lean, high BLM's - Log attached
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
93 Running lean, high BLM's - Log attached
So, I've been battling a Code44 left side lean which I can not figure out. Initially I thought it was a bad o2 sensor connector, followed a bad plug wire (which there was) and also did a heated o2 sensor conversion in the process.
This all started after putting a new set of headers and o2 sensors on the car, but I suspect the car has been running lean for some time. Finally got datamaster running and did a quick log the other night to find the passenger side is running lean too. I see that IAC position is at 0 during idle which usually indicates a vacuum leak, however I cant find one anywhere.
Hoping somebody can take a look at the log and help me out
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4E...ew?usp=sharing
This all started after putting a new set of headers and o2 sensors on the car, but I suspect the car has been running lean for some time. Finally got datamaster running and did a quick log the other night to find the passenger side is running lean too. I see that IAC position is at 0 during idle which usually indicates a vacuum leak, however I cant find one anywhere.
Hoping somebody can take a look at the log and help me out
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4E...ew?usp=sharing
#2
Well, I would like to help you but I am away from a PC right now. I would like to know what the BLM is? You should connect the O2 sensor signal wire to a graphing meter and with the engine running, inject propane into the intake either through a vacuum line or the snorkel. If you get a large voltage spike on the graphing meter, the o2 sensor is processing oxygen change. If during normal operation the BLM is clocked at 160 and the O2 sensor is reporting a voltage that is above .450 volts, there is a problem with the way the ECM is interpreting the O2 voltage.
Also, please could you tell me your MAP voltage and MAP converted vacuum pressure at idle?
If your car has a MAF sensor, I'd like to know the voltage or gm/sec of that as well.
Another thing you can watch for too is injector base pulse width. If you have a data log of when the car was in good running condition you can compare the idle values of the injector BPW. The injector BPW should increase as the BLMs increase if there is a problem with the o2 sensor.
Also, please could you tell me your MAP voltage and MAP converted vacuum pressure at idle?
If your car has a MAF sensor, I'd like to know the voltage or gm/sec of that as well.
Another thing you can watch for too is injector base pulse width. If you have a data log of when the car was in good running condition you can compare the idle values of the injector BPW. The injector BPW should increase as the BLMs increase if there is a problem with the o2 sensor.
#3
I reviewed your data log on my computer with Data Master. It looks like it's just a bunch of gibberish and inaccurate sensor data. Could be the way my program is set up, could be the way you recorded it, could be a problem on your end or a problem with your ECM, but I could not read any accurate sensor data at all.
RPMs were around 5500 the whole time, MAF was in the 130-180 range the whole time, fuel trims were below the minimum limit, coolant temp was -40* the whole time, car was in open loop the whole time, etc. Looks like a corrupt log to me.
RPMs were around 5500 the whole time, MAF was in the 130-180 range the whole time, fuel trims were below the minimum limit, coolant temp was -40* the whole time, car was in open loop the whole time, etc. Looks like a corrupt log to me.
#4
Burning Brakes
I reviewed your data log on my computer with Data Master. It looks like it's just a bunch of gibberish and inaccurate sensor data. Could be the way my program is set up, could be the way you recorded it, could be a problem on your end or a problem with your ECM, but I could not read any accurate sensor data at all.
RPMs were around 5500 the whole time, MAF was in the 130-180 range the whole time, fuel trims were below the minimum limit, coolant temp was -40* the whole time, car was in open loop the whole time, etc. Looks like a corrupt log to me.
RPMs were around 5500 the whole time, MAF was in the 130-180 range the whole time, fuel trims were below the minimum limit, coolant temp was -40* the whole time, car was in open loop the whole time, etc. Looks like a corrupt log to me.
#5
Burning Brakes
First thing is try closing your throttle blades by adjusting the Idle set screw on Throttle body. Lets see if your IAC counts go up. Your Log does indicate higher BLM on the Left side , but there is O2 correction being applied by ECU to try and adjust. There is no spark retard.
#6
The BLMs on the right side were also pretty high as well...
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for your input, alot of good thoughts flying around.
I've always understood that the idle set screw is not something to ever be adjusted?
I may be able to get the plugs pulled tonight if there's time and report back.
A few other things i've noticed:
- there is a backfire during shifts (not sure if it's due to the new exhaust or not)
- When cruising coming to a light, i'll push the clutch in and it will stay rev'd around the 1000-1200rpm mark. It comes down to the 750rpm area only when I'm at a DEAD stop. I would think rpm's should drop to 750 whenever the clutch is depressed.
Could the IAC be gummed up or not fully seating causing extra air to be introduced?
I've always understood that the idle set screw is not something to ever be adjusted?
I may be able to get the plugs pulled tonight if there's time and report back.
A few other things i've noticed:
- there is a backfire during shifts (not sure if it's due to the new exhaust or not)
- When cruising coming to a light, i'll push the clutch in and it will stay rev'd around the 1000-1200rpm mark. It comes down to the 750rpm area only when I'm at a DEAD stop. I would think rpm's should drop to 750 whenever the clutch is depressed.
Could the IAC be gummed up or not fully seating causing extra air to be introduced?
#8
Thanks for your input, alot of good thoughts flying around.
I've always understood that the idle set screw is not something to ever be adjusted?
I may be able to get the plugs pulled tonight if there's time and report back.
A few other things i've noticed:
- there is a backfire during shifts (not sure if it's due to the new exhaust or not)
- When cruising coming to a light, i'll push the clutch in and it will stay rev'd around the 1000-1200rpm mark. It comes down to the 750rpm area only when I'm at a DEAD stop. I would think rpm's should drop to 750 whenever the clutch is depressed.
Could the IAC be gummed up or not fully seating causing extra air to be introduced?
I've always understood that the idle set screw is not something to ever be adjusted?
I may be able to get the plugs pulled tonight if there's time and report back.
A few other things i've noticed:
- there is a backfire during shifts (not sure if it's due to the new exhaust or not)
- When cruising coming to a light, i'll push the clutch in and it will stay rev'd around the 1000-1200rpm mark. It comes down to the 750rpm area only when I'm at a DEAD stop. I would think rpm's should drop to 750 whenever the clutch is depressed.
Could the IAC be gummed up or not fully seating causing extra air to be introduced?
Judging by what you just said, it would give me more reason to believe the spark plugs would need to be read.
Also, my car sometimes comes to a high idle when I stop and the idle RPMs drop down over a few seconds. I don't think that should be the cause for concern right now. Quite frankly it's not very much of a problem unless it is excessively noticeable. But I still think the original issue you mentioned needs to be addressed first.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
#10
Burning Brakes
You need to adjust the Idle set screw to close the throttle blades , This is so the IAC counts come up to at least 40 - 50 so that it gives the IAC some room for control. I have had personal experiences where the backfire is caused by fouled plugs. This may also be causing the high BLM as unburned fuel is read as a lean by the O2 sensor. Great idea to start by pulling/ reading the plugs.
#12
So it looks as if there is a real problem here where the o2 sensor is reporting accurately.
I would try to do a vacuum leak smoke test using a black and mild cigar, 3 foot 3/8" vacuum hose, sealed metal container, and air compressor.
Punch two holes into the metal container. One that's big enough to squeeze the vacuum line into, and another one to fit the compressor nozzle into.
Find a port on the intake which is large enough to fit the 3/8" vacuum line over. Light the black and mild cigar and slip it into the vacuum hose. Then slide the vacuum hose with the cigar into the hole in the metal container.
Remove the front of the snorkel from the air box or somewhere where you can fit a rubber glove over it to seal off the intake. Use a zip tie or two to secure the glove.
Apply compressed air into the metal container and clamp off the vacuum hose with something after the intake is pressurized. Watch for smoke to appear.
To me it appears to be unmetered and unevenly distributed air as the cause of the problem. Something to cause a significant fuel trim change like this should be pretty noticeable, not indicative of a small vacuum leak but rather medium sized.
If that checks out okay, I'm going to give you the procedure to test the MAP sensor.
I would try to do a vacuum leak smoke test using a black and mild cigar, 3 foot 3/8" vacuum hose, sealed metal container, and air compressor.
Punch two holes into the metal container. One that's big enough to squeeze the vacuum line into, and another one to fit the compressor nozzle into.
Find a port on the intake which is large enough to fit the 3/8" vacuum line over. Light the black and mild cigar and slip it into the vacuum hose. Then slide the vacuum hose with the cigar into the hole in the metal container.
Remove the front of the snorkel from the air box or somewhere where you can fit a rubber glove over it to seal off the intake. Use a zip tie or two to secure the glove.
Apply compressed air into the metal container and clamp off the vacuum hose with something after the intake is pressurized. Watch for smoke to appear.
To me it appears to be unmetered and unevenly distributed air as the cause of the problem. Something to cause a significant fuel trim change like this should be pretty noticeable, not indicative of a small vacuum leak but rather medium sized.
If that checks out okay, I'm going to give you the procedure to test the MAP sensor.
#13
But I would think if the gap was excessive that there would be fouled plugs.
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
You need to adjust the Idle set screw to close the throttle blades , This is so the IAC counts come up to at least 40 - 50 so that it gives the IAC some room for control. I have had personal experiences where the backfire is caused by fouled plugs. This may also be causing the high BLM as unburned fuel is read as a lean by the O2 sensor. Great idea to start by pulling/ reading the plugs.
So it looks as if there is a real problem here where the o2 sensor is reporting accurately.
I would try to do a vacuum leak smoke test using a black and mild cigar, 3 foot 3/8" vacuum hose, sealed metal container, and air compressor.
Punch two holes into the metal container. One that's big enough to squeeze the vacuum line into, and another one to fit the compressor nozzle into.
Find a port on the intake which is large enough to fit the 3/8" vacuum line over. Light the black and mild cigar and slip it into the vacuum hose. Then slide the vacuum hose with the cigar into the hole in the metal container.
Remove the front of the snorkel from the air box or somewhere where you can fit a rubber glove over it to seal off the intake. Use a zip tie or two to secure the glove.
Apply compressed air into the metal container and clamp off the vacuum hose with something after the intake is pressurized. Watch for smoke to appear.
To me it appears to be unmetered and unevenly distributed air as the cause of the problem. Something to cause a significant fuel trim change like this should be pretty noticeable, not indicative of a small vacuum leak but rather medium sized.
If that checks out okay, I'm going to give you the procedure to test the MAP sensor.
I would try to do a vacuum leak smoke test using a black and mild cigar, 3 foot 3/8" vacuum hose, sealed metal container, and air compressor.
Punch two holes into the metal container. One that's big enough to squeeze the vacuum line into, and another one to fit the compressor nozzle into.
Find a port on the intake which is large enough to fit the 3/8" vacuum line over. Light the black and mild cigar and slip it into the vacuum hose. Then slide the vacuum hose with the cigar into the hole in the metal container.
Remove the front of the snorkel from the air box or somewhere where you can fit a rubber glove over it to seal off the intake. Use a zip tie or two to secure the glove.
Apply compressed air into the metal container and clamp off the vacuum hose with something after the intake is pressurized. Watch for smoke to appear.
To me it appears to be unmetered and unevenly distributed air as the cause of the problem. Something to cause a significant fuel trim change like this should be pretty noticeable, not indicative of a small vacuum leak but rather medium sized.
If that checks out okay, I'm going to give you the procedure to test the MAP sensor.
Last edited by 9T3VETTE; 07-10-2015 at 11:12 AM.
#15
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well...went out for a cruise last night and the service ride control light came on. Got home, pulled the codes and here's what I got:
module 1:
- H41 (ecm serial data circuit loss of communication)
- H74 (LED dimming output open or short to ground)
Module 4:
- H44 (lean)
Module 9:
- H72 (serial data malfunction)
So it looks like I have more problems than originally thought. I'm going to check the ecm ground above the oil filter and check its tight.
module 1:
- H41 (ecm serial data circuit loss of communication)
- H74 (LED dimming output open or short to ground)
Module 4:
- H44 (lean)
Module 9:
- H72 (serial data malfunction)
So it looks like I have more problems than originally thought. I'm going to check the ecm ground above the oil filter and check its tight.
Last edited by 9T3VETTE; 07-11-2015 at 03:54 PM.
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well...went out for a cruise last night and the service ride control light came on. Got home, pulled the codes and here's what I got:
module 1:
- H41 (ecm serial data circuit loss of communication)
- H74 (LED dimming output open or short to ground)
Module 4:
- H44 (lean)
Module 9:
- H72 (serial data malfunction)
So it looks like I have more problems than originally thought. I'm going to check the ecm ground above the oil filter and check its tight.
module 1:
- H41 (ecm serial data circuit loss of communication)
- H74 (LED dimming output open or short to ground)
Module 4:
- H44 (lean)
Module 9:
- H72 (serial data malfunction)
So it looks like I have more problems than originally thought. I'm going to check the ecm ground above the oil filter and check its tight.
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well it's been a little while since i've started this thread, but alot of work has happened.
Step 1
- Cleaned engine bay grounds and the grounds underneath, above the oil filter and bell housing.
- In the process found a damaged fusible link to the alternator which I also replaced.
- Cleaned ECM connections
Data logged the car and still found it to be running lean with IAC counts 0 at idle.
Step 2
Thought it may be the aftermarket PROM in the car, so I took it out and replaced it with the stock PROM. Took a datalog which confirmed it was running the same and the PROM was not the cause.
With AC on IAC counts jumped up which indicated to me it was functioning properly. The only thing left in my mind was a vacuum leak.
Step 3
So I broke down, took it to a local shop who smoked the intake and found a leak in the rubber hose between the EVAP purge solenoid valve and the throttle body.
The line was replaced and it now idles great and the engine speed settles nicely coming to a stop. BLM's also came down but are still not at 128, but close.
They also indicated there was a small leak at the throttle blade bushings, but nothing serious and didnt recommend replacement.
I'm just glad to be back up and running, just in time for dream cruise
Still have history codes for the serial data malfunction (H72 module 9). Even though they are history codes and i've tried to clear them they remain and the "Service Ride Control" light remains on....I'm hoping there are no issues with the ECM...
Thanks for everyone's help!
Step 1
- Cleaned engine bay grounds and the grounds underneath, above the oil filter and bell housing.
- In the process found a damaged fusible link to the alternator which I also replaced.
- Cleaned ECM connections
Data logged the car and still found it to be running lean with IAC counts 0 at idle.
Step 2
Thought it may be the aftermarket PROM in the car, so I took it out and replaced it with the stock PROM. Took a datalog which confirmed it was running the same and the PROM was not the cause.
With AC on IAC counts jumped up which indicated to me it was functioning properly. The only thing left in my mind was a vacuum leak.
Step 3
So I broke down, took it to a local shop who smoked the intake and found a leak in the rubber hose between the EVAP purge solenoid valve and the throttle body.
The line was replaced and it now idles great and the engine speed settles nicely coming to a stop. BLM's also came down but are still not at 128, but close.
They also indicated there was a small leak at the throttle blade bushings, but nothing serious and didnt recommend replacement.
I'm just glad to be back up and running, just in time for dream cruise
Still have history codes for the serial data malfunction (H72 module 9). Even though they are history codes and i've tried to clear them they remain and the "Service Ride Control" light remains on....I'm hoping there are no issues with the ECM...
Thanks for everyone's help!
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
I want to update again for future readers.
Found both exhaust manifold gaskets to be leaking on the bottom side of the flange. Ordered a set of percys aluminum gaskets and they are leak free now Popping of the exhaust during shifts is gone.
Also, cleared all the history codes and they have not come back. I'm thinking during the data log process it triggered serial data codes?? Either way it's running great!
Found both exhaust manifold gaskets to be leaking on the bottom side of the flange. Ordered a set of percys aluminum gaskets and they are leak free now Popping of the exhaust during shifts is gone.
Also, cleared all the history codes and they have not come back. I'm thinking during the data log process it triggered serial data codes?? Either way it's running great!
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