Header installation tips wanted please(hooker 2151's on 86)
06-14-2005, 07:41 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Header installation tips wanted please(hooker 2151's on 86)
Passenger side. From above or below? What do I have to remove?
Driver's side. From above or below? What do I have to remove?
I'm ready to go, just want some pointers. Thanks everyone who is able to help.
Steve
Driver's side. From above or below? What do I have to remove?
I'm ready to go, just want some pointers. Thanks everyone who is able to help.
Steve
06-14-2005, 08:49 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Right side from above. Remove the spark plugs, wires, oil filter, and it goes in from the top. Also the alternator braket that secures to one of the header bolts if you still have it. It helps to have the front of the car off the ground with this side too. That's it.This is the easy side.
Left side from below. Remove the starter, starter/flywheel cover, plugs, wires, and that long AIR hose that went to your main cat. The dipstick will not get in your way, nor will the ac unit ect. You need the front of the car pretty high off the ground.
You might also have to remove the diagonal frame brace on this side that goes from the back of the front wheel and meets in the center below the oil pan. Try getting the header in first and see if it will go up high enough to align the bolt holes on the head without catching the corner of this brace before you remove it. Mine caught the corner of this brace and did not allow the header to go up enought to align the bolt holes on the head. I just simply grinded down this corner, cause once the headers are bolted on, you will not have room to screw that top bolt into place. So if you pull this brace, make sure you tighten this upper brace bolt back down while the header is in place but not yet bolted on, cause you won't have room once the headers are bolted. You must install the header and the starter at the same time. That means bolt the starter into place while the header is in but not yet bolted to the head.
Also, when you got the headers in place and ready to bolt them onto the heads on either side, start with the header bolts that have the pipe more bent towards them. Reason is because some of the pipes bend real close to the bolt hole, and if you bolt all the rest of the bolts in place and have the headers flush on the heads, you might not be able to get some of the remaining bolts started because the bolt head will hit the pipe. You will have to loosen the bolts, pull the header away from the heads, hand start each bolt and tighten in turns as you move the header against the head.
Use the Fel-Pro dead soft aluminum gaskets for a better seal than those that came with the headers. There only like $10 and they are reuseable. Same goes for the collector gaskets. Those that come with the headers blow out easy. Get the Percy's dead soft aluminum ones instead for the collectors.
Use anti-seize compound on the collector bolts and the header bolts.
Retighten all bolts after a few drives untill they stay snug.
The last header bolt closest to the firewall on the passanger's side is going to be a PITA to install. Specially if you have big hands. I used a small 1/4 drive ratchet with a short flex joint on a 5/16 socket to tighten it from the top. Or you can heat up and bend a wrench into an L shape to get to it. It's not easy.
If you also bought Hooker's matching front y-pipe and your Vette is an automatic, expect the y-pipe to not clear the transmission pan. It's going to hit the corner and not go up all the way to seal at the collectors. Had to take mine to a muffler shop, have the corner cut out and replaced with a secton of 3" pipe that had a longer sweep to clear the pan.
Left side from below. Remove the starter, starter/flywheel cover, plugs, wires, and that long AIR hose that went to your main cat. The dipstick will not get in your way, nor will the ac unit ect. You need the front of the car pretty high off the ground.
You might also have to remove the diagonal frame brace on this side that goes from the back of the front wheel and meets in the center below the oil pan. Try getting the header in first and see if it will go up high enough to align the bolt holes on the head without catching the corner of this brace before you remove it. Mine caught the corner of this brace and did not allow the header to go up enought to align the bolt holes on the head. I just simply grinded down this corner, cause once the headers are bolted on, you will not have room to screw that top bolt into place. So if you pull this brace, make sure you tighten this upper brace bolt back down while the header is in place but not yet bolted on, cause you won't have room once the headers are bolted. You must install the header and the starter at the same time. That means bolt the starter into place while the header is in but not yet bolted to the head.
Also, when you got the headers in place and ready to bolt them onto the heads on either side, start with the header bolts that have the pipe more bent towards them. Reason is because some of the pipes bend real close to the bolt hole, and if you bolt all the rest of the bolts in place and have the headers flush on the heads, you might not be able to get some of the remaining bolts started because the bolt head will hit the pipe. You will have to loosen the bolts, pull the header away from the heads, hand start each bolt and tighten in turns as you move the header against the head.
Use the Fel-Pro dead soft aluminum gaskets for a better seal than those that came with the headers. There only like $10 and they are reuseable. Same goes for the collector gaskets. Those that come with the headers blow out easy. Get the Percy's dead soft aluminum ones instead for the collectors.
Use anti-seize compound on the collector bolts and the header bolts.
Retighten all bolts after a few drives untill they stay snug.
The last header bolt closest to the firewall on the passanger's side is going to be a PITA to install. Specially if you have big hands. I used a small 1/4 drive ratchet with a short flex joint on a 5/16 socket to tighten it from the top. Or you can heat up and bend a wrench into an L shape to get to it. It's not easy.
If you also bought Hooker's matching front y-pipe and your Vette is an automatic, expect the y-pipe to not clear the transmission pan. It's going to hit the corner and not go up all the way to seal at the collectors. Had to take mine to a muffler shop, have the corner cut out and replaced with a secton of 3" pipe that had a longer sweep to clear the pan.
Last edited by 86PACER; 06-14-2005 at 10:33 PM.
06-14-2005, 10:11 PM
#4
Race Director
if you only have the headers and nothing else - go see mark smith at muffler masters on 55th ave. and glendale - he has done al my exhaust work for the last 18 years, the kid (and his crew) know what they are doing! i had a buddy get his truck done there and he was totally impressed how he would eye the angle and eye the measurement - and his exhaust came out "smelling like a rose"
06-14-2005, 10:29 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2003
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I had the Y pipe on mine and it had get a slice cut out of it to clear the tranny pan. I can also get to the rear passenger header bolt from underneath easily, but the front one under the AC is the one I hate. Good Luck!
06-14-2005, 10:40 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2004
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Didn't do an 86 but did my 90 and have done several other non vette headers.
On my 90 I went in from the bottom both sides. I removed starter and temp sheild for fuel filter and knock sensor just for extra clearance for install and to get to that #8 bolt from underneath. After headers were in I replaced these items.
My hooker 2149's has a slotted bolt hole flange for that pesky #8 bolt so I could start the #8 bolt and gasket and then slide the header flange into place then start the other bolts. It's tough to get that one started once header is in place.
Best tip I have is to start all header bolts but dont tighten them. This allows a slight bit of moveability to line up the collectors to Y pipe.Then start the collector bolts but dont tighten them. Now tighten the headers then comeback and tighten the collectors to Y pipe.
Hope this helps you.
On my 90 I went in from the bottom both sides. I removed starter and temp sheild for fuel filter and knock sensor just for extra clearance for install and to get to that #8 bolt from underneath. After headers were in I replaced these items.
My hooker 2149's has a slotted bolt hole flange for that pesky #8 bolt so I could start the #8 bolt and gasket and then slide the header flange into place then start the other bolts. It's tough to get that one started once header is in place.
Best tip I have is to start all header bolts but dont tighten them. This allows a slight bit of moveability to line up the collectors to Y pipe.Then start the collector bolts but dont tighten them. Now tighten the headers then comeback and tighten the collectors to Y pipe.
Hope this helps you.
06-14-2005, 11:26 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Guys, your advice was dead on. I looked things over before posting and guessed I'd have to pull the starter and oil filter but didn't want to proceed until I'd heard from those that had already done it. I have the headers on but only w/ a couple of started bolts... taking a break for dinner. Didn't see the info about the pesky #8 but I did notice that the one closest to the firewall is slotted.
some things I ran into
I had to remove the cross brace but once the headers are in position the cross brace bolts right back on.
I'll be running true dual exhaust.... no Y pipe to deal with!
Due to tall Dart valve covers, had to remove the driver side one. In order to do this, had to remove smog pump as one mounting bolt and part of a bracket reside over the front lip of the valve cover. The valve cover was sandwiched perfectly between the afore mentioned items and the wiper motor.
I had to bend the tranny lines to get the starter back in, then really muscle it into the small space it occupies.
The starter was a PITA to put back on and is very heavy. It is perhaps the original, I think... it's an AC delco. I'll probably regret not changing it out right now.
A cool thing. On the bottom of the block where the starter bolts on is stamped the word "corvette". This is actually where the case of the starter and the block come together. (l98 2 bolt main)
As I was testing putting in the passenger side from above (before your responses), my nephew bumped the disconnected negative battery cable and it fell into place. This was at the exact moment I had rested the header on the starter. End result, battery fried, negative connection threads melted, and 2 spot weld marks on my ceramic headers.(out of site) Oh, and one very frightened nephew.
You guys are great for helping me out. Thanks!
some things I ran into
I had to remove the cross brace but once the headers are in position the cross brace bolts right back on.
I'll be running true dual exhaust.... no Y pipe to deal with!
Due to tall Dart valve covers, had to remove the driver side one. In order to do this, had to remove smog pump as one mounting bolt and part of a bracket reside over the front lip of the valve cover. The valve cover was sandwiched perfectly between the afore mentioned items and the wiper motor.
I had to bend the tranny lines to get the starter back in, then really muscle it into the small space it occupies.
The starter was a PITA to put back on and is very heavy. It is perhaps the original, I think... it's an AC delco. I'll probably regret not changing it out right now.
A cool thing. On the bottom of the block where the starter bolts on is stamped the word "corvette". This is actually where the case of the starter and the block come together. (l98 2 bolt main)
As I was testing putting in the passenger side from above (before your responses), my nephew bumped the disconnected negative battery cable and it fell into place. This was at the exact moment I had rested the header on the starter. End result, battery fried, negative connection threads melted, and 2 spot weld marks on my ceramic headers.(out of site) Oh, and one very frightened nephew.
You guys are great for helping me out. Thanks!
Last edited by AZC4Guy; 06-14-2005 at 11:32 PM.
06-14-2005, 11:56 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by AZC4Guy
The starter was a PITA to put back on and is very heavy. It is perhaps the original, I think... it's an AC delco. I'll probably regret not changing it out right now.
It is pretty heavy, specially while trying to hold it up agains the motor with one hand and threading the bolts in with the other.
Last edited by 86PACER; 06-15-2005 at 01:28 AM.
09-28-2016, 10:27 PM
#9
Racer
Dont worry too much. I've changed mine out a couple of times with the header and y-pipe in place. It's a tight fit but as long as you move the trans fluid lines out of the way while wiggling the starter, it slides past the header collector. Not sure if that is true if you got oil cooler lines to deal with.
It is pretty heavy, specially while trying to hold it up agains the motor with one hand and threading the bolts in with the other.
It is pretty heavy, specially while trying to hold it up agains the motor with one hand and threading the bolts in with the other.
