Inner tie rod end
#3
Race Director
Originally Posted by the blur
brought an inner tie rod end for my 96. the instructions says it need to be STACKED. what exactly does that mean ??
In my Helms (95) it does not mention either. If you don't have the Helms shoot me a PM and I will scan the section and email it to you. (dont have a web host to hang the JPEG on.
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; 09-07-2005 at 09:41 PM.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
yes, STAKED.... not stacked.
I do have the factory service manuals.
But I was referring to the instructions that came with the Moog part.
GM does not sell racks any more. so I figured I would rebuild mine, rather than get stuck with some aftermarket rebuilder.
I do have the factory service manuals.
But I was referring to the instructions that came with the Moog part.
GM does not sell racks any more. so I figured I would rebuild mine, rather than get stuck with some aftermarket rebuilder.
#5
Burning Brakes
The '89 GM manual, page 3B1-9, figure 9 says rack must be out of the car, boot is already off, hold rack with wrench while turning off the old one, screw new one on until it bottoms on rack, torque tie rod end housing against rack end to 70 ft-lb (crow foot adapter and hold rack on flats while torquing), flatten (stake) both sides of tie rod end housing against flats on rack (back side against immovable object) using flat punch and hammer, check stake with 0.010 feeler gage between flattened housing sections and rack flats-feeler must not go between.
I suspect you could do it "on car" but must be very careful not to put any torque on the rack with respect to the main housing. Good luck.
PS: The "stacked" part is probably sitting in the passengers seat doing her nails, waiting for you to get done.
I suspect you could do it "on car" but must be very careful not to put any torque on the rack with respect to the main housing. Good luck.
PS: The "stacked" part is probably sitting in the passengers seat doing her nails, waiting for you to get done.
Last edited by tonymax2; 09-07-2005 at 10:52 PM. Reason: added
#6
Race Director
Well as I stated previosly STACKED is Pam Lee.
Staked is when you peen something like a rivet, or peen to keep a bolt from loosening. The later is an easy concept I am just having a hard time explaining it on the internet I could demonstrate it with no problems. Have you ever seen an old piece of equipment that had a bolt head or nut that looked like some one hit it around the edges to raise some metal so that it would not loosen? Thats staking. I don't see how that fits with an inner tie rod replacement.
Here is a definition from the internet
Staking is a method of fastening (usually sheet metal) by squeezing protrusion formed in one part inside a hole in the second part, and then deforming the protrusion. The act of deformation causes radial expansion of the inner part and locks it in the hole.
Staking is also used to hold the plunger tubes on my 1911s.
Maybe you have to stack two nuts to lock the tie rod end?
MIke
Staked is when you peen something like a rivet, or peen to keep a bolt from loosening. The later is an easy concept I am just having a hard time explaining it on the internet I could demonstrate it with no problems. Have you ever seen an old piece of equipment that had a bolt head or nut that looked like some one hit it around the edges to raise some metal so that it would not loosen? Thats staking. I don't see how that fits with an inner tie rod replacement.
Here is a definition from the internet
Staking is a method of fastening (usually sheet metal) by squeezing protrusion formed in one part inside a hole in the second part, and then deforming the protrusion. The act of deformation causes radial expansion of the inner part and locks it in the hole.
Staking is also used to hold the plunger tubes on my 1911s.
Maybe you have to stack two nuts to lock the tie rod end?
MIke
Last edited by aboatguy; 09-08-2005 at 12:11 AM.
#7
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Originally Posted by the blur
brought an inner tie rod end for my 96. the instructions says it need to be STACKED. what exactly does that mean ??
The stake is like "safety wire". Its there to prevent the nut from backing off if the nut loosens.
What is important to remember is that you'll need to cut off (hacksaw is quickest, only cut the collar not the nut) the old staking collar before removing the inner tie rod. After torquing the new tie rod nut, stake the nut retaining collar with a hammer and punch backed up with a vise or anvil. Using a pair of pliers or vise grips is painful and not likely to generate enough force to ensure the stake is secure enough.
#8
Safety Car
looking at the 96 service manuals now....
the 96 service manual doesn't say anything about staking in the procedure. but then there is a little picture of the complete rack, and it mentions staking in the picture box. So they must of copied part of the 89 manual, but not everything.
still an interesting discussion
still an interesting discussion
#10
I'm bringing this topic back from the dead. I was going to replace the inner and outer tie rods on my 86 tonight after watching some videos online, seemed really easy. Then I open the FSM and it says to "stake" the inner tie rod. Never heard of that before and a Google search brought me to this thread.
1. So do I really need to stake the nut on the inner tie rod? Or would some blue LocTite do the same thing and secure the inner tie rod well?
2. Also, if the stock inner tie rods are staked, I need to somehow cut off the staked nut before trying to get the inner tie rod off?
3. I don't think my Moog inner tie rods have stakable nuts. Am I supposed to find these somewhere?
1. So do I really need to stake the nut on the inner tie rod? Or would some blue LocTite do the same thing and secure the inner tie rod well?
2. Also, if the stock inner tie rods are staked, I need to somehow cut off the staked nut before trying to get the inner tie rod off?
3. I don't think my Moog inner tie rods have stakable nuts. Am I supposed to find these somewhere?
Last edited by BuckeyeROC; 05-29-2019 at 07:13 PM.
#11
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When you get it apart it will be obvious. Not that hard on the driver side. Never did the other side. I think I used an air cut off tool to split the stake on the original. A hammer and punch will do the stake part. You just need to make a flat spot so it cant turn.
Last edited by JackDidley; 05-29-2019 at 07:29 PM.
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#12
Last edited by BuckeyeROC; 05-29-2019 at 07:54 PM.
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#14
Drifting
When you start taking the old one apart you will see the staking they did.
It's just a sleve at the end that you smush down into the channel on the rod.
One tip is to use a little heat when removing.
I also used a cut off wheel to remove the old smushed sleeve..
I also used a dab of blue lock tite when installing the new one for good measure.
It's just a sleve at the end that you smush down into the channel on the rod.
One tip is to use a little heat when removing.
I also used a cut off wheel to remove the old smushed sleeve..
I also used a dab of blue lock tite when installing the new one for good measure.
Last edited by Gibbles; 05-30-2019 at 04:29 PM.
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#17
OK, plot twist. So I had to cut the shaft of the inner tie rods, the outer tie rods/jam nuts would not budge. So after doing that, I discover that I have male inner tie rods. I bought the Moog #EV124's, per the Moog website for a 1986 Corvette, which are female. Any insight on what part # inner tie rods I need here?
Moog site: https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-ev124
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/90200630@N06/, on Flickr
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/90200630@N06/, on Flickr
Moog site: https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-ev124
Last edited by BuckeyeROC; 06-04-2019 at 03:38 PM.
#18
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I just checked the left over passenger side one from my 87. Female, like the Moog. (812) 925-3604 is the number for kevin Taber. He has a large inventory of C4 parts. Give him a call and see if he has a used rack or some info on the rack you have.
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#19