Intake manifold gasket
11-05-2005, 08:05 AM
#1
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Intake manifold gasket
My '90 with 67k is leaking antifreeze around the intake manifold gasket. The antifreeze appears to be coming up through the last two head bolts (bolts closest to the firewall) that hold down the intake manifold on the driver's side. What can I do to prevent antifreeze from coming up through these bolts? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
11-05-2005, 08:37 AM
#3
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Purchased the car about 6 months ago and I don't know if the intake manifold had been removed prior to that. The leak showed up after I had the coolant system flushed (about 1 month after I purchased the car) and I initially thought the leak was coming from the gasket. However, the leak now appears to be coming from around the last two bolts holding down the intake manifold on the driver's side. I was seriously thinking about replacing the intake manifold gasket, which several shops quoted a price of $700. Hopefully, I can eliminate the leak by removing and sealing those two bolts without having to replace the intake manifold gasket. Thanks.
11-05-2005, 08:49 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
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OK, I thought you re-assembled it. If that's the case, you might want to replace the gaskets and re-seal all the bolts. It might be an improper install and it may leak again somewhere else. It's not too bad of a job for a sunny afternoon and a six pack 
11-05-2005, 01:19 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Permatex liquid teflon sealant has not let me down.......yet.
I have always used Permatex Number 2. You can try sealing those bolts, but you are taking a chance. If the gasket is leaking, it may leak internally, into the valley as well as to the outside. Keep a close eye on your dipstick for signs of water in your oil. The sure cure is a complete change of the intake manifold gaskets. You can save yourself $650.00 to $675.00 by doing it yourself.
RACE ON!!!
11-07-2005, 09:36 PM
#7
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O.K. seriously considering changing the intake manifold gasket myself even though doing it looks pretty overwhelming to an over-the-hill novice like myself. Tried loosening the two torx bolts where the two pieces of the EGR pipe (I think that's what its called) come together and they wouldn't budge. Figured that this would be one of the problem areas so tried that before I started into the job. I assume that pipe, which is on the passenger side of the motor and attaches to the intake manifold near the distributor, must be removed. Any helpful ideas for loosening those two bolts and any other short cuts for removing and replacing the intake manifold would be appreciated. I've skimmed the tech tips and other threads. Thanks.
11-07-2005, 09:41 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
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Are you using a Torx socket or wrench? If you are using a wrench, carry it down to Autozone and buy a socket. The Torx socket and small breaker bar or medium size ratchet should break it loose. 
The intake should be cleaned and prepped as well as the mating surfaces and free from oil or debris. Use the "right stuff" sealant to help on your learning curve and follow the torque sequence. It is a good first job that you will be proud of and don't forget to seal the bolts with your choice of thread sealer
The intake should be cleaned and prepped as well as the mating surfaces and free from oil or debris. Use the "right stuff" sealant to help on your learning curve and follow the torque sequence. It is a good first job that you will be proud of and don't forget to seal the bolts with your choice of thread sealer
11-08-2005, 12:09 AM
#9
EGR Pipe
The bolts on the EGR pipe can be difficult. They tend to rust. I recommend soaking in pb blaster or something over night. The last time I didn't then I used a torx (t-40 as I recall) socket and a breaker bar to break them loose and ended up stripping out the bolt head on one. I then took a steel chisel and went at it with a BFH at an angle and eventually got it to go. I've done my intake twice now and took 2 days so I could let the sealant cure over night before starting her up. The biggest pain for me was cleaning the old gasket material off the intake and heads. I found using some spray from permatex in a blue can (I can't remember the name) was a big help. Also, sealing up the ends properly is very critical. Use LOTS of sealant. "The right stuff" is very popular and is what I used the last time. I put on the recommended bead size the first time (using a different sealant) and ended up having to do it again the following year. Last time I put a huge bead on, if I have to do it again, I 'll go even bigger. It's been fine for 2 years now but cringe every time I smell coolant thinking I might have to do that job again. A lot of people have had luck dimpling the mating surfaces to give the sealant something to adhere to. I think there may even be a tech tip on it. With the forum's help, you can do this yourself. If I got through it (twice), anybody can.
Good Luck,
Ron
Good Luck,
Ron