NewbeeBob

So I'm taking on my first restoration project. I'm making a list of all the things that need to be done. Most of this stuff I can handle. Than, I come across this one. The steering wheel seemed a bit wobbly. I notice there's some kind of wedge between the column and dash panel. So, I pop the little wedge out and now the steering wheel column moves up, down, left, right, pretty much all over. And, when it drives, it sort of binds when turning right. My Chilton book doesn't show me any detail about this, at least I can't find it. I'm on the hunt for the actroy manual now.

Anyone know how to tighten up the steering column? By the way, why the heck would it be loose? Good thing I got this car cheap.... Any help would be awsome.

Bob

VtVette

This can be a bit of a bear, but it is fairly common in GM columns especially in cars from the 80s. The corvette especially so as people have a tendancy to use the wheel as an assist when exiting the car.

More than likely your column bolts have come loose. What it comes down to is there are four bolts in the steering column that come loose and cause the problem. Unfortubatley these bolts are buried deep in the column. You will need to disassemble most of the colum to get to them. It's not an incredibly difficult job, but things need to be kept in order and put back exactly as they came out. you will also need a couple of special tools. one that comes to mind is a tool to pull the pins from the side of the column that allow the column to pivot up and down (they are visible on the side of the column).

The Chilton or Haynes are not of much use here, you will need the help of the factory service manual. It contains detailed pictures and instruction on how to disassemble and reassemble the column.

If the column is that loose I would advise agenst driving the car. Obviously the binding when turning is dangerous and my nephew had a Fiero that had this same problem and it finally kinked the wires leading to the ignition switch and started an electrical fire in the column. Not trying to scare you just telling you of an actual experience that happened as a result of this problem when it was allowed to go too long.

Also, if you do end up repairing it yourself when you get the column apart don't just tighten the bolts remove them one by one and put some locktite on them to help prevent this from happening again.

I noticed search isn't working right now. Once it's back up do a search on "Column bolts" or "loose column" or even just "Column" under C4 section and you should find some more info. IIRC there was a scan of the factory manual floating around at one point showing the repair procedures and pic's from the Helms.
Hope this helps,

Brian
VTvette

VtVette

BTW welcome to the forum!

Brian
VTvette

Daffy

You'll need a lockplate tool and a tilt pin extractor and since that year is telescopic you'll need a 1 inch 5/16 bolt to put in the end of the shaft to use the loc plate tool..Then there's the inverted torx socket for the base bolts and maybe about three beers

96_LT4_FE1

I see everything is pretty much covered, but I want 2nd the motion of parking the car till its fixed. if those bolts come all the way out, and they will, at the very least you'll be stranded, at the worst you'll be on a curvey highway interchange at 70 , but either way it makes a mess in the column.

If you take care of it now, it ain't bad, just time consuming. I only had to do it once on somebodys car who I didn't even know, it wasn't that bad and i was able to do it with only partial disassembly. I used to be able to take lock plates out w/o the special tool, but the tool makes it real easy, its definitely worth it.
»keith

DarkBlue88

It is somewhat time consuming and there are a lot of pieces to forget(like the white chime connector) and the grease that's in there makes a mess. However you can sit in the seat while doing it.

3 things happen:

1 The pivot pins back out due to not being staked in with a punch, usually the outside one, opposite the key.
2 The pivot holes wallow out and a new housing is needed(around 80$ i think)
3 the 4 torx screws back out.

1 and 3 are from using the wheel as help getting in and out of the car.
2 is from I don't know what, maybe tilting the wheel up and down too much or a combination of both.

NewbeeBob

I already decided to park the car. There are other issues as well, such as the exhaust system is clapped out and the weather stripping is dry rotted. But those are more streight forward jobs. Well, guess I'm tearing down the steering column.... I better get all the honey do stuff done first, otherwise the wife will be a pain in the you-know-what while I'm in the middle of it. Thanks again for all the help.


Bob

NewbeeBob

I found the lockplate tool pretty easy. Can't find a tilt pin extractor. Where can I get one? Also, I'm looking at some of the pics. I don't have the manual yet, but are the bolts that need to be tightened in the column and are they torx? I'm pretty mechanical, but are we talking lots of little springs and levers like a carb rebuild? I've never done anything to that level, but there is always a first time. And does this mean the ignition lock switch and blinker switch have to come out as well? Guess I better get that service manual. Thanks everyone.

Bob

CG77VETTE

Welcome to the Forum I have these two links that might help. Good Luck!

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/susp..._steering.html

http://domesticmisfits.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7142

Brimis

I had the same problem and had to replace the column.I pulled my column and upon inspection a dozen ball bearings fell to the ground. Folks use the steering wheel as a support to get out of the car. I have a good schemetic if you need it, let me know. Good luck with the Corvette.

junk yard dog

The pins can be removed by screwing a machine screw in the threaded hole of the pin and "fulcruming" them out with a pair of dykes. Use a short screw so the head will stop against the jaws of the dykes as you pry outward. I can't remember the the thread size, but it is common.

comp

96_LT4_FE1

If the bolts are the problem, I believe they are inverted torx, the bolt head looks like a torx. Many times you can use a tight fitting 6 point socket in a pinch.

If you have rebuilt a carb, I think you'll find this pretty easy. If you have big hands, you might be swearing a bit more, but its not too bad.

A great use for digital cameras is to take a pic of the guts before you move some of the pieces, then you can just look at the camera to see where the parts go, or even print out blown up pix.

YMMV, »keith

NewbeeBob

Thanks for the posts. If you have a schematic, that would be great. I ordered the tools and the shop manual. when everything arrives, we'll see what appens. It doesn't look too difficult, just time consuming. Guess I should stock up on beer. Hey, it's Christmas, maybe I'll throw in some egg nog.

Bob

VtVette

This is a great tip. I do this ALL the time at my shop. The factory manual is VERY helpful but pic's can also be a great help. Best part about digital camera is you take as many pic's as you want. The first time I did this project (before I had a digital camera) pic's would have been helpful. I got the project done but as I recall there was something that was not exactly clear that I stumbled on for a little while.

Sounds like you'll be fine just take your time and if you can get ahold of a camera take pic's as well.

Brian
VTvette