ccmano

I have a moderate oil leak from what appears to be the rear of the intake manifold. Has anyone had any success stopping the leak by simply retorquing the intake manifold? Removing the intake manifold on a TPI is a PITA, don't want to do it if I don't have to.

Midnight 85

If the intake was loose enough to leak oil it'd be sucking vacuum big time. I just got done doing this on mine so get the wrenches back out, the RTV probably got messed up on assembly.

Pete K

It likely will not work. If you remove everything to allow access to the 12 manifold bolts, it is not much more work to go the extra mile and pull the lower base manifold.

CentralCoaster

Oil can wick up the bolts or leak out the back china wall.

I had a leak at a bolt in front so I pulled it, coated it with RTV and put it back in.... stopped the leak for 6 months or so and came back.


If you're leaking oil that's not so bad, it's when it starts leaking coolant into the lifter valley that it's an imminent problem.

cv67

Just pull the base off and reseal. Its a rite of passage that L98 owners become accustomed to
Did mine 3 times this year, hold my breath every time I get on it...

aboatguy

Small block chevy engines have been leaking oil from the front and rear of the intake manifold since 1955. I would reseal it with the "RIGHT STUFF"

Mike

CentralCoaster

I did this one week into owning the car.

mseven

GOOD advice, that is the only real fix, pull it and re-seal . Spend the time prepping the parts carefully (sand on rails for adhession and clean w/tri-chlor), using the right stuff, it is the best sealer for the front and rear rails, and probably the best chance for it to seal. As A NOTE, those intakes are a PITA.

Dynabob

Did this two weeks ago on my '89. It took about 6 hours total for me. I know I could do it quicker now. (hope I dont' have to). Took the 'right stuff' advise seen here. That is a good sealer and easy to apply. My engine runs better than ever and no more oil and coolant leaks. Took the time to clean everything up and paint the engine. Just take your time, it's not that bad of a job.

cv67

If you should decide you need to remove your fuel rails, make sure you grease the injecotr o-rings upon reass'y. Then after reconnecting the supply/return lines, turn the key to "on" (not start!)to pressurize the system and make sure there are no leaks. Last time I didnt check, got everything back together, and guess what leaked! Yep, tear it apart and do it over...

Yellow95

I checked/retorqued the bolts on my '95 recently. It did not help. Did the reseal job. (Fingers crossed still checking for leaks)

I think retorquing might help if the leak is at a gasket. When the leak is at the goop it is caused by the goop no longer sticking to metal. Tighnening it probably will not help.

ccmano

Well I guess it's unanimous....off with manifold this weekend! Of course this presents another delema.... I have a set of Accel High Flow runners sitting here...as long as I have the manifold off I should probably change over to a high flow manifold to match the runners!! This is getting expensive (but then I knew that)

Anybody have a used, resonably priced, accel, edelbrock or TPIS base manifold laying around they want to part with?

jonecap

Done mine 4 times...last time was the charm...I think