87 4+3 clutch not disengaging fully
#1
87 4+3 clutch not disengaging fully
When i first bought my 87, the clutch pedal was stuck, and i had to step on it really hard to get it to the floor, and once it got to the floor it stayed there
I went ahead and replaced the clutch master cylinder, and bled the system. Clutch pedal is operating properly, but im not able to completely disengauge the clutch.
If im in neutral with the motor running, i cant get it into and gear.
OR if i try to start the car in gear, with clutch depressed, the car moves , and this is with the clutch completely depressed.
Ok so i bend the dust cover off of the slave cylinder and watch as my assistant depresses the clutch. The slave cylinder pin is moving the clutch fork, but barely, maybe about a half inch, im sure this is not enough.
The master cylinder is new, slave looks new and has no leaks, and the system is bled. Is there any adjustment i can do to get the pin to come out more? Or am i going to have to go for a new clutch slave cylinder?
I went ahead and replaced the clutch master cylinder, and bled the system. Clutch pedal is operating properly, but im not able to completely disengauge the clutch.
If im in neutral with the motor running, i cant get it into and gear.
OR if i try to start the car in gear, with clutch depressed, the car moves , and this is with the clutch completely depressed.
Ok so i bend the dust cover off of the slave cylinder and watch as my assistant depresses the clutch. The slave cylinder pin is moving the clutch fork, but barely, maybe about a half inch, im sure this is not enough.
The master cylinder is new, slave looks new and has no leaks, and the system is bled. Is there any adjustment i can do to get the pin to come out more? Or am i going to have to go for a new clutch slave cylinder?
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Cincinnati, Oh USA
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We don't know the history of the clutch before you got the car. If the clutch has been replaced etc. , the clutch actuation is very sensitive to clutch components and different components usually require a clutch rod with the proper length. When my 87 4+3 xmsn had to be removed to repair the OD, we had the flywheel machined and only .005 was removed and a new clutch disk installed. After much fooling around, we had to make a new clutch rod of the correct length to enable full disengagement.
#4
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Member Since: Nov 2001
Location: Renton WA
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My 85 had a really stiff clutch for years. When I had the tranny out it was obvious it was not disengaging.
Clutch fork/throwout brg need some lube as does pivot ball. Also need a pressure plate that is not bound up. After I replaced everything, it was easy to push the pedal and smooth as silk.
I can sell you a brank new Luk clutch kit (that's what I used.) I will match/beat anyone's price.
Clutch fork/throwout brg need some lube as does pivot ball. Also need a pressure plate that is not bound up. After I replaced everything, it was easy to push the pedal and smooth as silk.
I can sell you a brank new Luk clutch kit (that's what I used.) I will match/beat anyone's price.
#5
Thanks for your suggestions, but i found the culpret, When the master cylinder was froze, and i pushed really hard on the pedal, I actually bent the clutch pedal down like a few inches,
Never driving a c4 before, once i replaced the master cylinder, i thought the very short travel was normal. and after bleeding the clutch like 10 times, i decided to talk a look at the pedal, after i noticed it was barely higher than the brake pedal. Bent it back and its been fine, although im sure its been weakend so im gonna have to keep an eye out on it.
Never driving a c4 before, once i replaced the master cylinder, i thought the very short travel was normal. and after bleeding the clutch like 10 times, i decided to talk a look at the pedal, after i noticed it was barely higher than the brake pedal. Bent it back and its been fine, although im sure its been weakend so im gonna have to keep an eye out on it.