car now undriveable - wont shift when the car is on
02-26-2006, 10:44 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
car now undriveable - wont shift when the car is on
(95 LT1 6spd)Well.... the last couple times I drove the car (after some recent 30* weather) - it was hard to shift into any gears, but would be completely normal after a little while (was planning on looking into it very soon, but it is my only car - initially assumed the lubrication was just more viscous from being colder - then easing up during the drive)... However - earlier today I have found that I cannot get it to shift at all while the engine is on (I believe I could bend the shifter before it would go into a gear -except for 4th).... with the engine off everything shifts perfectly...Anyway - to try to use the car I shut it off - then put it in reverse and started the car... it went into first fine that time to get out of the apartments....then the first turn after I absolutely could not get it back into gear....I shut the car off - put it in gear - then turned it on....when I took it out of gear (soon after in 2nd) at the next stoplight it was also hard to do and jarred the whole car when it came out of gear....then I couldnt get it in again..shut the car off...put in first...then turned on and went straight back home and took my fiances car. - - Also note that my SES light has come on several times lately (I assume it has something to do with an 02 reading as it has been every other time - I have purchased a data log cable and will use TTS Datamaster on the car when that comes in - during the coming week). Of course it could be something different (on the SES). Please let me know what you guys think has happened... (It has only been bad since the 30* weather - in Florida!!) Thanks for any help.
02-26-2006, 10:49 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by 4REGT4
(95 LT1 6spd)Well.... the last couple times I drove the car (after some recent 30* weather) - it was hard to shift into any gears, but would be completely normal after a little while (was planning on looking into it very soon, but it is my only car - initially assumed the lubrication was just more viscous from being colder - then easing up during the drive)... However - earlier today I have found that I cannot get it to shift at all while the engine is on (I believe I could bend the shifter before it would go into a gear -except for 4th).... with the engine off everything shifts perfectly...Anyway - to try to use the car I shut it off - then put it in reverse and started the car... it went into first fine that time to get out of the apartments....then the first turn after I absolutely could not get it back into gear....I shut the car off - put it in gear - then turned it on....when I took it out of gear (soon after in 2nd) at the next stoplight it was also hard to do and jarred the whole car when it came out of gear....then I couldnt get it in again..shut the car off...put in first...then turned on and went straight back home and took my fiances car. - - Also note that my SES light has come on several times lately (I assume it has something to do with an 02 reading as it has been every other time - I have purchased a data log cable and will use TTS Datamaster on the car when that comes in - during the coming week). Of course it could be something different (on the SES). Please let me know what you guys think has happened... (It has only been bad since the 30* weather - in Florida!!) Thanks for any help.
There's a lot of that going around. Failed leaking slaves. Check other threads on here.
02-26-2006, 11:35 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by FELNGR8
Sounds like your clutch hydraulics are dry. The master cylinder and reservoir are beneath the PCM on the driver side.
There's a lot of that going around. Failed leaking slaves. Check other threads on here.
There's a lot of that going around. Failed leaking slaves. Check other threads on here.
Sounds like a real good lead. I'll check the other threads and look into it tomorrow. Thanks
Edit: - Also - if this is the problem... Is this an easy/cheap fix? May help me sleep if I know that much...
Last edited by 4REGT4; 02-26-2006 at 11:50 PM.
02-27-2006, 02:05 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by bogus
Figure about $150.00 for new hydraulics. Most likely, the problem is with the slave.
I doubt it's the clutch... they go the opposite way...
I doubt it's the clutch... they go the opposite way...
02-27-2006, 03:29 AM
#7
Team Owner
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Location: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
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$150 if you're lucky. Every time you tried to force it into gear you were wearing down the syncrhos and dog teeth on your gears. I had to replace 2 of my 4 gears when I ran my dry. After new clutch cylinders, the shifting was still very difficult.
02-27-2006, 11:44 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by bogus
Figure about $150.00 for new hydraulics. Most likely, the problem is with the slave.
I doubt it's the clutch... they go the opposite way...
I doubt it's the clutch... they go the opposite way...
Only if replacing the slave doesn't solve the problem should he look at the master cylinder. And then of course the symptoms would be the indicator as well, if the lost fluid doesn't drip into a puddle on the floor but seems to disappear, then he should look under the dash for fluid. That is where a failed master leaks but it's hard to work on and it's hard to find the fluid leak there. It's only after you've been through this that you recognize the tell tale symptoms.
I didn't mention this in Rex Ruby's thread, but.. When I put my car up on jackstands to work on the front brakes there was a puddle under my car. It's clear and odorless, and when I took my car out for a ride with the new brakes it didn't shift as well as it did before winter.
I wonder if storing these cars for the winter has something to do with the slaves failing? Do we need to exercise the clutch more often in the winter months?
02-27-2006, 09:17 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by FELNGR8
Um, when I said clutch hydraulics I wasn't implying a master failure, I was referring to where he would find the reservoir to view its emptiness, and to try a refill. After reading the multiple threads on here I hoped he would start with the slave that is so failure prone.
Only if replacing the slave doesn't solve the problem should he look at the master cylinder. And then of course the symptoms would be the indicator as well, if the lost fluid doesn't drip into a puddle on the floor but seems to disappear, then he should look under the dash for fluid. That is where a failed master leaks but it's hard to work on and it's hard to find the fluid leak there. It's only after you've been through this that you recognize the tell tale symptoms.
I didn't mention this in Rex Ruby's thread, but.. When I put my car up on jackstands to work on the front brakes there was a puddle under my car. It's clear and odorless, and when I took my car out for a ride with the new brakes it didn't shift as well as it did before winter.
I wonder if storing these cars for the winter has something to do with the slaves failing? Do we need to exercise the clutch more often in the winter months?
Only if replacing the slave doesn't solve the problem should he look at the master cylinder. And then of course the symptoms would be the indicator as well, if the lost fluid doesn't drip into a puddle on the floor but seems to disappear, then he should look under the dash for fluid. That is where a failed master leaks but it's hard to work on and it's hard to find the fluid leak there. It's only after you've been through this that you recognize the tell tale symptoms.
I didn't mention this in Rex Ruby's thread, but.. When I put my car up on jackstands to work on the front brakes there was a puddle under my car. It's clear and odorless, and when I took my car out for a ride with the new brakes it didn't shift as well as it did before winter.
I wonder if storing these cars for the winter has something to do with the slaves failing? Do we need to exercise the clutch more often in the winter months?