Oil Change light won't go off
#1
Heel & Toe
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Oil Change light won't go off
I just got the oil changed and the light that says change oil won't turn off??Someone said you have to reset it? Where? Jacquelyn
#2
Burning Brakes
Turn the key to the on position. Don't crank it. Press ENG MET button and within 5 seconds press ENG MET button again then press and hold gadge button until the change oil light goes out. Should go out after 10seconds.
#5
Heel & Toe
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never mind
Oh ok..we pressed the "range" button and it worked..thanks again guys!! Now if anyone could tell me why it goes "MMmmmMMMMmmmm" when its coasting along and your not pressing the gas pedal, I'd be even happier!! :-)
#6
Race Director
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I hope everyone has the good taste to leave this one alone and just stick to mechanical questions/answers.
Blondess15, it could be several things: tire hum, exhaust, idler bearing, rear gears, etc. It's nearly impossible to diagnose a noise on the internet. Can you be more specific?
Larry
code5coupe
Blondess15, it could be several things: tire hum, exhaust, idler bearing, rear gears, etc. It's nearly impossible to diagnose a noise on the internet. Can you be more specific?
Larry
code5coupe
Last edited by rocco16; 05-26-2006 at 01:01 PM.
#7
Heel & Toe
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sorry
Sorry...:o
Well two of the three converters were bad so we replaced those. Then we replaced the plugs, wires, coil, and something else I don't remember. All the basic stuff..but when the car is running and your driving along, it surges when your just coasting along, it dosen't necessarily seem to go faster then slower but the motor makes a surging noise, basically the idle seems really rough, not smooth like a normal motor.
Is that better?
Well two of the three converters were bad so we replaced those. Then we replaced the plugs, wires, coil, and something else I don't remember. All the basic stuff..but when the car is running and your driving along, it surges when your just coasting along, it dosen't necessarily seem to go faster then slower but the motor makes a surging noise, basically the idle seems really rough, not smooth like a normal motor.
Is that better?
#8
Le Mans Master
Just read a post yesterday about a similar problem and have known about this for a while. Clean the resistors and wires on the MAF with throttle body cleaner, carefully . I like to take the assembly off the engine. If their dirty or gunky they can cause poor runability like surging. It' s a cheep fix and even if it doen not correct it it 's a good thing to do anyway.
#10
Le Mans Master
The resistors are in the MAF (mass air flow), unit which is right after the air cleaner hose connection. If you remove that hose and look in the opening you should see some very fine wires and usually a small resistor suspended by the wires. These measure the air flow into the engine sets up the air/fuel mixture (in general) . If they get really dirty they don’t work right which will affect the A/F mixture. These are very fragile and need to be treated with the utmost of care. You might consider getting some qualified help before tackling this. For anyone who works on cars, has some tools and some knowledge, this really is an easy thing to do. Just need to be careful.
#11
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thanks
Oh thank you so much for explaining that all to me, we really appreciate your help. And you know what, my father in laws converters went out because the air flow sensor was bad on his Ranger..I wonder if that could be the same problem with my car?? Well we'll see, thanks again!! Jacquelyn