How do you remove #8 spark plug+wire on a LT1 eng?
#1
Racer
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How do you remove #8 spark plug+wire on a LT1 eng?
iam in the process of replacing both spark plugs + wires on my 93, but! i've run across a fork in the road,#8 spark plug + wire. thus my question: how do you go about removing both #8 spark plug +wire so that i can replace them? i would appericate hearing your experences on how you forum members overcame this mountain of missery.
thanks boonie
thanks boonie
#2
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I removed the plastic fender well panel on both the driver and passenger sides to get better plug access. I believe you can come at the number 8 plug from beneath the car, too. They are a ****.
Be sure and use anti-sieze compound. BTW, I like the NGK TR-55 Double Platinum plugs.
Be sure and use anti-sieze compound. BTW, I like the NGK TR-55 Double Platinum plugs.
#3
Le Mans Master
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Has anyone used this? I was thinking of buying. Does it make the job easier? If so it would be worth the price. http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=1.66.173
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by rickneworleansla; 06-06-2006 at 11:32 AM.
#4
Team Owner
another trick is to use a standard plug socket, then use a 3/4" offset box wrench to break it free...
either way, I can do the other 7 plugs in about 50 minutes... that one always takes me 30 alone.
this is an improvement over 90 minutes... for just #8...
either way, I can do the other 7 plugs in about 50 minutes... that one always takes me 30 alone.
this is an improvement over 90 minutes... for just #8...
#5
Le Mans Master
Because there isn’t room to use a ratchet when changing the #8 plug, I use a plug socket that has a hex head on it so that it can be turned with an open end or box end wrench. It's useful to have more than one plug socket to choose from, as some will work better than others due to differences in length, wall thickness, etc.
Be sure to apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the threads of the new plugs before you install them so that they won’t seize in the cylinder heads in the future (this is especially important with aluminum heads). Just make sure none of the compound gets onto the electrodes or insulators of the plugs. I apply a very thin stripe of compound across the threads in one spot, and it spreads itself around the threads as I screw the plug into the hole. Also be careful that you don’t pick up any of the grunge that may have accumulated over the years around the spark plug hole in the cylinder head on the new plugs’ electrodes/insulators/threads while you’re installing them – try your best to get the tip of the plug straight into the hole on the first shot.
Be well,
SJW
Be sure to apply a small amount of anti-sieze compound to the threads of the new plugs before you install them so that they won’t seize in the cylinder heads in the future (this is especially important with aluminum heads). Just make sure none of the compound gets onto the electrodes or insulators of the plugs. I apply a very thin stripe of compound across the threads in one spot, and it spreads itself around the threads as I screw the plug into the hole. Also be careful that you don’t pick up any of the grunge that may have accumulated over the years around the spark plug hole in the cylinder head on the new plugs’ electrodes/insulators/threads while you’re installing them – try your best to get the tip of the plug straight into the hole on the first shot.
Be well,
SJW
#6
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by rickreeves1
Has anyone used this? I was thinking of buying. Does make the job easier? If so it would be worth the price. http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=1.66.173
Thanks
Thanks
#9
Burning Brakes
There was someone here a while ago that had a method for getting at this plug by having your back to the engine while on the passenger side of the car and leaing over backwards and sliding your hand with some wrench or socket) down to the plug. This somehow better aligns your hand and arm for leverage.
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Also, use a section of rubber hose to thread the plugs and seat them before you torque them in with a socket or torque wrench.