Stock Thermostat Temp for 86 L98?
#2
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#3
Le Mans Master
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If 175-180 is the magic number and from what I've witnessed coolant temp. usally runs 5-10 deg higher than actual thermostat rated temp wouldn't a comprimise, like say a 170 deg thermostat be ideal.
#9
Le Mans Master
It's surprises me how accurate my temp guage is, I'm running a 180 with modified fan switch, fans come on at 200-205 both aux. and main, go off at 185. While driving my temps usually go up to between 180-185..no fans comming on, and I watch it drop down to 175 then repeat.
By the way, you can do this without programming the ECM. The other thing we need to watch is the oil temps...in mine they usually run around 10 degrees higher than engine temps. I personally find this to be a good combination. In stop and go, ambient temps 80-95* she will heat up to as high as 210-211, then cool down with the fans on.I'm a happy camper. In the 3 plus years I've been on this forum I've only heard one member posting he uses a 170 stat. Some guys use the 160, I don't subscribe to that theory....but to each his own.
By the way, you can do this without programming the ECM. The other thing we need to watch is the oil temps...in mine they usually run around 10 degrees higher than engine temps. I personally find this to be a good combination. In stop and go, ambient temps 80-95* she will heat up to as high as 210-211, then cool down with the fans on.I'm a happy camper. In the 3 plus years I've been on this forum I've only heard one member posting he uses a 170 stat. Some guys use the 160, I don't subscribe to that theory....but to each his own.
#11
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Originally Posted by ultraviolet70
If 175-180 is the magic number and from what I've witnessed coolant temp. usally runs 5-10 deg higher than actual thermostat rated temp wouldn't a comprimise, like say a 170 deg thermostat be ideal.
Too many people seem to want to run their engines cooler than is healthy or even productive. I've preached, in the past, and most just don't "get it". Others have valid reasons for having their engines run "too cool". A lot of people that THINK they are lowering their operating temp, are only serving to prolong the warm up, and shorten, or eliminate, the time spent at proper operating temps.
RACE ON!!!
#12
Le Mans Master
I've gone through three stats in as many years. The first two failed in the closed position and, luckily I was close to home so no overheating occurred.
The third time I had installed a type that, if it fails, fails in the open position. Well it did just that.
So I've been trying to find the "balanced" stat; been to AutoZone, two O'Reilly's and PepBoys and none of them ever even heard of a balanced stat -EVEN AFTER I SHOWED THEM THE PHOTO.
I do recall buying one years ago, but I can't remember who's brand it was or where I bought it.
I went through the master catalogs at both PepBoys (STANT) and O'Reilly"s (MURRY) trying to find one but couldn't.
Someone please tell me where I can buy one.
Thanks,
Jake
The third time I had installed a type that, if it fails, fails in the open position. Well it did just that.
So I've been trying to find the "balanced" stat; been to AutoZone, two O'Reilly's and PepBoys and none of them ever even heard of a balanced stat -EVEN AFTER I SHOWED THEM THE PHOTO.
I do recall buying one years ago, but I can't remember who's brand it was or where I bought it.
I went through the master catalogs at both PepBoys (STANT) and O'Reilly"s (MURRY) trying to find one but couldn't.
Someone please tell me where I can buy one.
Thanks,
Jake
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I think both Jeg's and Summit sell what you're looking for (I just ordered one). They don't refer to them as "balanced" but they look identical to those in the post above and are the reverse poppit type.
#15
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Your observation of the engine temp running 5° to 10° above the stat temp is nothing but a pure coincidence. Once the stat opens, it loses all control over the operating temp of the engine.
Too many people seem to want to run their engines cooler than is healthy or even productive. I've preached, in the past, and most just don't "get it". Others have valid reasons for having their engines run "too cool". A lot of people that THINK they are lowering their operating temp, are only serving to prolong the warm up, and shorten, or eliminate, the time spent at proper operating temps.
RACE ON!!!
Too many people seem to want to run their engines cooler than is healthy or even productive. I've preached, in the past, and most just don't "get it". Others have valid reasons for having their engines run "too cool". A lot of people that THINK they are lowering their operating temp, are only serving to prolong the warm up, and shorten, or eliminate, the time spent at proper operating temps.
RACE ON!!!
#16
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by geezel
I just received my Milodon thermostat from Summit (Part No. 16401). It is a balanced sleeve design.
Jake
#17
Drifting
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Your observation of the engine temp running 5° to 10° above the stat temp is nothing but a pure coincidence. Once the stat opens, it loses all control over the operating temp of the engine.
Too many people seem to want to run their engines cooler than is healthy or even productive. I've preached, in the past, and most just don't "get it". Others have valid reasons for having their engines run "too cool". A lot of people that THINK they are lowering their operating temp, are only serving to prolong the warm up, and shorten, or eliminate, the time spent at proper operating temps.
RACE ON!!!
Too many people seem to want to run their engines cooler than is healthy or even productive. I've preached, in the past, and most just don't "get it". Others have valid reasons for having their engines run "too cool". A lot of people that THINK they are lowering their operating temp, are only serving to prolong the warm up, and shorten, or eliminate, the time spent at proper operating temps.
RACE ON!!!
A properly operating thermostat does not snap open. A 180 tstat begins to open at or above 180* and should be fully open at 20* above the base temp., or 200*. So a 170* tstat should be fully open at 190*.
If ultraviolet70 and I were to drive down a highway with a 170 in his C4 and a 180 in my C4; with all other conditions being the same, if I see 190 in my Vette, he would probably see 186-188 in his. Due to the fact that his tstat is opening a bit more and earlier than mine; at operating temps from 180-200* in my Vette, I would expect his Vette to be a running a temp that is a few degrees less. This difference of a few degrees will slowly disappear with the final temps merging as we both approach maximum opening of our tstats. Once he hits 190*, his tstat should be fully open, whereas mine is not. He should be a couple of degrees cooler than me. When my Vette is at 200*, I'm generating enough heat to open my tstat fully. At that point both Vettes with the tstats both fully open, would be generating the same amount of heat and the cooling systems removing that same amount of heat. Therefore both tstats are equally doing nothing to aid or impeed the cooling system. With input = output the same for both vehicles, the final temp should be the same for both vehicles, and at that point CFI-EFI is absolutely correct, "Once the stat <fully> opens, it loses all control over the operating temp of the engine." i.e. as you near 200*, a 170 has the same effect as a 180.
If ultraviolet70 is using a 170 tstat, the advantage is that below 200* he will probably be slightly cooler by a couple degrees. This has no effect on the final operating temp on a hot day. It simply has a negative effect on the amount of time it takes to get to the proper operating temp. So, as CFI-EFI states ... "A lot of people that THINK they are lowering their operating temp, are only serving to prolong the warm up, and shorten, or eliminate, the time spent at proper operating temps."
#18
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Originally Posted by Mike_88Z51
While I fully agree with most of your post, I think your statement "Once the stat opens, it loses all control over the operating temp of the engine." could be stated better or it will be misinterpreted by the less experienced.
A properly operating thermostat does not snap open. A 180 tstat begins to open at or above 180* and should be fully open at 20* above the base temp., or 200*. So a 170* tstat should be fully open at 190*.
A properly operating thermostat does not snap open. A 180 tstat begins to open at or above 180* and should be fully open at 20* above the base temp., or 200*. So a 170* tstat should be fully open at 190*.
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#19
Melting Slicks
I think most people confuse a thermostat's purpose. Its purpose is more to block the flow of coolant from the motor, so the engine can heat up to proper operating temperature, than it is for cooling a vehicle. If the object was to keep the engine as cool as possible, there would be no thermostat and coolant would flow freely all the time.
#20
Drifting
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Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
The thermostats *I* have personally observed and tested, opened more quickly than you describe, but I agree they don't "snap open" like the head lights turn on when you pull the switch. The point remains as stated, however, meaning that installing a lower opening point (nominally) stat, doesn't "force" the engine to run cooler. The thermostat can only control the minimum engine operating temp, not the maximum.
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In case anyone is interseted in the opening size differences between the C4 model years here are the specs as sent to me by Stant.
86-91 Corvette 5.7L VIN 8
Stant 13359
Valve diameter - 1.00"
Min. stroke @ full open - .310
90-95 Corvette 5.7L VIN J
Stant 14068
Valve diameter - 1.12"
Min. stroke @ full open - .320
92-96 Corvette 5.7L VIN P
Stant 14218
Valve diameter - 1.640"
Min. stroke @ full open - .320