TV cable adjustment 1993 w/ASR
#1
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
TV cable adjustment 1993 w/ASR
Okay, I have asked a few, but I think this is important for everyone who has the 700R4/4L60 non electronic Corvette with ASR.
Will someone be very specific in how, without a guage, you can adjust the TV cable to get you within a nats a** till you do get a guage to check the pressure.
Right now mine is set up where if you release the TV cable it slide all the way back towards the windhield. Thats where my transmission shop says it reads 80 psi. Transgo says the pressure will be 15-18lbs higher with there shift kit, and factory is 65-85 psi, depending on model transmission.
Mine shifts very hard, and on time in 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4. No slipping etc. But, AS everyone knows, fluid pressure is VERY important here in our transmissions.
1993 Corvette with original TV cable, transmission has 12 miles on it, and wont be driven till I get the TV cable adjusted correctly, but if I can tfind a guage, I will have to do it by another method. FSM (TransGo says throw it away):
"1.Take the covers off the ASR
2.Look at the pulleys you will see a 1/8in hole and a hole that takes a 1/4 drive.
3.Put a 1/8 in drill bit into the hole and through the pulleys but not over the gear drive.
4.Flip the retainer clip on the TV cable
5.Turn the pulley(Which Way, towars radiator or windshield) ~1/8 turn and put a Torque wrench(set to 8nm/71inlbs) with a 1/4in extension into the square 1/4 drive hole.Torque to 8nm and clip the TV cable while holding the torque.There will be some clicking when you torque the pulleys."
Will someone be very specific in how, without a guage, you can adjust the TV cable to get you within a nats a** till you do get a guage to check the pressure.
Right now mine is set up where if you release the TV cable it slide all the way back towards the windhield. Thats where my transmission shop says it reads 80 psi. Transgo says the pressure will be 15-18lbs higher with there shift kit, and factory is 65-85 psi, depending on model transmission.
Mine shifts very hard, and on time in 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4. No slipping etc. But, AS everyone knows, fluid pressure is VERY important here in our transmissions.
1993 Corvette with original TV cable, transmission has 12 miles on it, and wont be driven till I get the TV cable adjusted correctly, but if I can tfind a guage, I will have to do it by another method. FSM (TransGo says throw it away):
"1.Take the covers off the ASR
2.Look at the pulleys you will see a 1/8in hole and a hole that takes a 1/4 drive.
3.Put a 1/8 in drill bit into the hole and through the pulleys but not over the gear drive.
4.Flip the retainer clip on the TV cable
5.Turn the pulley(Which Way, towars radiator or windshield) ~1/8 turn and put a Torque wrench(set to 8nm/71inlbs) with a 1/4in extension into the square 1/4 drive hole.Torque to 8nm and clip the TV cable while holding the torque.There will be some clicking when you torque the pulleys."
#2
#3
Race Director
Originally Posted by steve40th
Okay, I have asked a few, but I think this is important for everyone who has the 700R4/4L60 non electronic Corvette with ASR.
Will someone be very specific in how, without a guage, you can adjust the TV cable to get you within a nats a** till you do get a guage to check the pressure.
Right now mine is set up where if you release the TV cable it slide all the way back towards the windhield. Thats where my transmission shop says it reads 80 psi. Transgo says the pressure will be 15-18lbs higher with there shift kit, and factory is 65-85 psi, depending on model transmission.
Mine shifts very hard, and on time in 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4. No slipping etc. But, AS everyone knows, fluid pressure is VERY important here in our transmissions.
1993 Corvette with original TV cable, transmission has 12 miles on it, and wont be driven till I get the TV cable adjusted correctly, but if I can tfind a guage, I will have to do it by another method. FSM (TransGo says throw it away):
"1.Take the covers off the ASR
YES
2.Look at the pulleys you will see a 1/8in hole and a hole that takes a 1/4 drive.
3.Put a 1/8 in drill bit into the hole and through the pulleys but not over the gear drive.
CORRECT
4.Flip the retainer clip on the TV cable
ALSO EXTEND THE THROTTLE CABLES (BOTH) TO THE FULL EXTEND POSITION.. (ALL THREE SHOULD BE AT FULL EXTEND) DISCONNECT THE
CRUISE CONTROL CABLE FROM THE CRUISE CONTROL VACCUM DIAGPHRAM UNDER THE ECM
5.Turn the pulley(Which Way, RADIATOR) ~1/8 turn and put a Torque wrench(set to 8nm/71inlbs) with a 1/4in extension into the square 1/4 drive hole.Torque to 8nm and clip the TV cable while holding the torque.There will be some clicking when you torque the pulleys. SOMETIMES IT CLICKS SOMETIME IT DOSENT"
Will someone be very specific in how, without a guage, you can adjust the TV cable to get you within a nats a** till you do get a guage to check the pressure.
Right now mine is set up where if you release the TV cable it slide all the way back towards the windhield. Thats where my transmission shop says it reads 80 psi. Transgo says the pressure will be 15-18lbs higher with there shift kit, and factory is 65-85 psi, depending on model transmission.
Mine shifts very hard, and on time in 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4. No slipping etc. But, AS everyone knows, fluid pressure is VERY important here in our transmissions.
1993 Corvette with original TV cable, transmission has 12 miles on it, and wont be driven till I get the TV cable adjusted correctly, but if I can tfind a guage, I will have to do it by another method. FSM (TransGo says throw it away):
"1.Take the covers off the ASR
YES
2.Look at the pulleys you will see a 1/8in hole and a hole that takes a 1/4 drive.
3.Put a 1/8 in drill bit into the hole and through the pulleys but not over the gear drive.
CORRECT
4.Flip the retainer clip on the TV cable
ALSO EXTEND THE THROTTLE CABLES (BOTH) TO THE FULL EXTEND POSITION.. (ALL THREE SHOULD BE AT FULL EXTEND) DISCONNECT THE
CRUISE CONTROL CABLE FROM THE CRUISE CONTROL VACCUM DIAGPHRAM UNDER THE ECM
5.Turn the pulley(Which Way, RADIATOR) ~1/8 turn and put a Torque wrench(set to 8nm/71inlbs) with a 1/4in extension into the square 1/4 drive hole.Torque to 8nm and clip the TV cable while holding the torque.There will be some clicking when you torque the pulleys. SOMETIMES IT CLICKS SOMETIME IT DOSENT"
ENOUGH WITH THE CAPS LOCK. now that we are on new text..
the sure fire way to check to make sure all is oky-dokey after you do this procedure is to drop tranny pan and look at the pluger the tv cable level presses into the valve body and make sure the level the tv cable is hooked up to is slammed up against the valve body holding the plunger all the way in (important note: this should be the position it is in with the GAS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR. Take the floor mat out of the car for this test to verify it is not keeping the pedal ffrom full travel..
I was told this verifies the conditions are good for full tv pressure..
BTW: which spacer plate did you end up using?
#4
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Originally Posted by 383_BluByU
ENOUGH WITH THE CAPS LOCK. now that we are on new text..
the sure fire way to check to make sure all is oky-dokey after you do this procedure is to drop tranny pan and look at the pluger the tv cable level presses into the valve body and make sure the level the tv cable is hooked up to is slammed up against the valve body holding the plunger all the way in (important note: this should be the position it is in with the GAS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR. Take the floor mat out of the car for this test to verify it is not keeping the pedal ffrom full travel..
I was told this verifies the conditions are good for full tv pressure..
BTW: which spacer plate did you end up using?
the sure fire way to check to make sure all is oky-dokey after you do this procedure is to drop tranny pan and look at the pluger the tv cable level presses into the valve body and make sure the level the tv cable is hooked up to is slammed up against the valve body holding the plunger all the way in (important note: this should be the position it is in with the GAS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR. Take the floor mat out of the car for this test to verify it is not keeping the pedal ffrom full travel..
I was told this verifies the conditions are good for full tv pressure..
BTW: which spacer plate did you end up using?
I have seen the pics to show you with the pan off. I may do this. Its strange how it could be unlocked, the tab, and it isnt moving at all, and I have WOT too.
But, the tranny shop says it was at 80psi at idel, which is within specs, 65-85 factory and 15-18 plus with transgo shift kit.
#5
Race Director
oh I know i did the caps.. it was so you could tell my typing from yours in the quote.. it was just starting to bug me..
make sure you are using the lock the correct way on the TV cable adjuster.. my little tab was missing so I had to use a c-clap to hold down the button..
EDIT"
BTW: I set mine first with the FSM method and then verified it at the valve body since I hadn't put the pan on yet.. and it was dead on...
make sure you are using the lock the correct way on the TV cable adjuster.. my little tab was missing so I had to use a c-clap to hold down the button..
EDIT"
BTW: I set mine first with the FSM method and then verified it at the valve body since I hadn't put the pan on yet.. and it was dead on...
#6
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Originally Posted by 383_BluByU
oh I know i did the caps.. it was so you could tell my typing from yours in the quote.. it was just starting to bug me..
make sure you are using the lock the correct way on the TV cable adjuster.. my little tab was missing so I had to use a c-clap to hold down the button..
EDIT"
BTW: I set mine first with the FSM method and then verified it at the valve body since I hadn't put the pan on yet.. and it was dead on...
make sure you are using the lock the correct way on the TV cable adjuster.. my little tab was missing so I had to use a c-clap to hold down the button..
EDIT"
BTW: I set mine first with the FSM method and then verified it at the valve body since I hadn't put the pan on yet.. and it was dead on...
I have that procedure, and am probably going to do it today, just need a small torque wrench. Right now with the cable all the way towards the windshield, it should be at a safe Higher pressure, correct?
#7
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
I checked the pressure at idle, 950 rpms and it was at 100 psi. The FSM says between 65-85 psi depending on model. I do have a Trans Go shift kit, and they say add 15-18lbs to OEM.
I am thinking it needs to be lowered. I emailed Pete, but I want everyone to learn from this, and what to do. Hopefully I will know exactly what to do soon. Steve
I am thinking it needs to be lowered. I emailed Pete, but I want everyone to learn from this, and what to do. Hopefully I will know exactly what to do soon. Steve
#8
Race Director
i've heard the factory specs for TV line pressure mean nothing after someone has modded the tranny.. I just did the FSM adjust procedure (torque wrench and 1/8 drill bit) and then checked it..
#9
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Originally Posted by 383_BluByU
i've heard the factory specs for TV line pressure mean nothing after someone has modded the tranny.. I just did the FSM adjust procedure (torque wrench and 1/8 drill bit) and then checked it..
#10
Race Director
nope... I suspect its way over factory specs since we did alot to keep it high (even at part throttle). I'm tired of eating 3-4 clutches.. this time I went soup to nuts with the internal;s.. this isnt a rebuilt tranny.. i consider it remanufactured.. everything is except the case.. my 1-2 shift is HARD (which is pretty easy to achive).. however, my 2-3 shift is jsut as hard at WOT but mild at anything else... (herein lies the real trickery).. I owe alot to Pete K and my buddy who are both tranny guru's!
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Originally Posted by 383_BluByU
nope... I suspect its way over factory specs since we did alot to keep it high (even at part throttle). I'm tired of eating 3-4 clutches.. this time I went soup to nuts with the internal;s.. this isnt a rebuilt tranny.. i consider it remanufactured.. everything is except the case.. my 1-2 shift is HARD (which is pretty easy to achive).. however, my 2-3 shift is jsut as hard at WOT but mild at anything else... (herein lies the real trickery).. I owe alot to Pete K and my buddy who are both tranny guru's!
Right now it is set at 80 psi, using my Compression tester which Craftsman says can be used wet/dry. I may bump it back to 90 psi, as it was at 210 at full TV. So doing the math I am going to go a little high, rather than low.
How hard are your upshifts as well as downshifts.
Steve
Another forum, but lots of data about line pressure
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114376
Last edited by steve40th; 08-27-2006 at 02:46 AM.
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Steve, Im not so certain my TV is set properly. After my new tranny went in my 1-2 upshift is like getting kicked in your back from a Mule ( even at part throttle). Tranny shop which is out of town says I need to have the tv adjusted. (Easier said then done) Took it to GM and the results did not change and the mechanic said even a slight adjustment would normally make a big difference which it did not in my case. I wonder if mine could be not seated right in the tranny pan. Ive been driving it like this over a year now and have just accepted the fact at 1-2 I must brace my neck. Or maybe thats the way my tranny just is. I cant afford to tinker with the tranny anymore.
#13
Melting Slicks
Something i've been trying to figure out for ages.
Steve,
Who did the Trans Garbage install? Were any modifications to the kit required? I had to cut down the one of the check valves because it would get stuck and the car wouldn't shift out of first.
You say the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are firm. Is this when you let trans shift itself or when you manually shift it?
Dave
Steve,
Who did the Trans Garbage install? Were any modifications to the kit required? I had to cut down the one of the check valves because it would get stuck and the car wouldn't shift out of first.
You say the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are firm. Is this when you let trans shift itself or when you manually shift it?
Dave
#14
Race Director
Originally Posted by BlackRoseLT1
:You say the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are firm. Is this when you let trans shift itself or when you manually shift it?
Dave
Dave
shifts itself.. however, we played with alot of things which make it far from the orig. tranny..
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Originally Posted by BlackRoseLT1
Something i've been trying to figure out for ages.
Steve,
Who did the Trans Garbage install? Were any modifications to the kit required? I had to cut down the one of the check valves because it would get stuck and the car wouldn't shift out of first.
You say the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are firm. Is this when you let trans shift itself or when you manually shift it?
Dave
Steve,
Who did the Trans Garbage install? Were any modifications to the kit required? I had to cut down the one of the check valves because it would get stuck and the car wouldn't shift out of first.
You say the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are firm. Is this when you let trans shift itself or when you manually shift it?
Dave
The 93 does need modifications to the shift kit, as our trannys are year specific.
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Originally Posted by bobmic93
Steve, Im not so certain my TV is set properly. After my new tranny went in my 1-2 upshift is like getting kicked in your back from a Mule ( even at part throttle). Tranny shop which is out of town says I need to have the tv adjusted. (Easier said then done) Took it to GM and the results did not change and the mechanic said even a slight adjustment would normally make a big difference which it did not in my case. I wonder if mine could be not seated right in the tranny pan. Ive been driving it like this over a year now and have just accepted the fact at 1-2 I must brace my neck. Or maybe thats the way my tranny just is. I cant afford to tinker with the tranny anymore.
1993, 1996, 700r4, accelerator, adjust, adjusting, adjustment, adjustments, asr, cable, controller, corvette, fleetwood, throttle, tv