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newbe question, what makes a 383 stroker well,um a 383 stroker

1985 Corvette

The basic 350 cubic inch engine's displacement of 350 cubic inches bumps up to 383 cubic inches thanks to enlarging the bores of the cylinders and increasing the travel of the piston up the cylinder, or piston stroke. Some clearance issues may develop thus requiring notching the block in certain areas to allow the new 383 crank to clear without any problems. 383s are known for their greatly improved torque and you can actually have one built without breaking the bank if you do your research.

The real experts that actually build and play with these things can give you a much more in depth explanation.

CFI-EFI

A .030" overbore and a 0.27" increase in the stroke.

RACE ON!!!

scooter18155

isnt a 383 a 350 with a 400 crank? not sure about bore size or the size rods just know what i heard from gearheads on the street

rickneworleansla

This should explain everything.

http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/h...placement.html

http://www.chevymania.com/tech/383.htm

all show and more go

these sites were amazing you've been alot of help since im currently doing a rebuild ill keep this in mind

Grease Monkey

Midnight 85

Oh, I know I'm gonna regret asking this but how is the stroke increased? Obviously with the bore increase there will be new pistons but isn't the stroke increased with longer rods? I'm guessing it would need a special rod/piston combo to keep from placing the piston too high in it's bore.
I also heard the 383 was reached with the 350 block/400 crank combo.

snootworks

The added stroke comes from using a different crank. Traditionally, the 383's used 400 cranks with the main journals reduced .200"

400's used a 5.56" rod, however the rod ratio is more preferrable with the 5.7" (or longer) rods. With longer rods comes more clearancing issues, however.

CFI-EFI

By increasing the center to center distance between the centerline of the crankshaft throw to the centerline of the main bearings. The stroke is two times the length of the throw of the crankshaft. The length of the connecting rod has nothing to do with the length of the stroke. The compression height of the piston added to the length of the rod, plus 1/2 the stroke should closely equal the deck height of the block from the center of the main bearing bores to the top of the block deck. You can use special "stroker" pistons with the 5.7", 350 rods, or you can use stock 350 pistons with the 400 rods.

The .350 has a 3.48" stroke. The 400 (383) has a 3.75" stroke.
3.75 - 3.48 = .027.

"I'm gonna regret asking this but how is the stroke increased?" Do you?

RACE ON!!!

Pete K

As a side note, they are worth it. On a street car a stroker add a ton of fun. Very little cons, but a few pro's.

Rich & Lisa_84

Some of the Cons.....
You will need a transmission capable of handling the power that the Stroker makes.

You will need to have a Rear end that will hold the power that the stroker makes.

Carefully consider what your target power is going to be. I have chosen a high target.

From my point of view....

After seeing my Dana36 Rear turn into Chicklets (I now have a Dana 44)

After trashing a Stock 700R4 and then having the upgraded version break at 3000 miles.

It is definately still worth it.

Midnight 85

"I'm gonna regret asking this but how is the stroke increased?" Do you?

RACE ON!!![/QUOTE]

No I don't regret it, I figured a few guys would have a couple "special" answers about lengthening a different stroke. Thanks for explaining this CFI. I knew basically what it was all about but was wondering the specific parts I would need to do a stroker. Since I posted earlier I have found a parts supplier who has a crank made especially for the 350 block while using the 5.7 rods and the 350 pistons in .030 over of course. I will of course need the flexplate and harmonic balancer to go with this crank. The part I'm going to have to ask the supplier is about the stroker pistons you mentioned. According to his information they aren't needed with this crank.
Thanks for the added info Pete, now I'm 99% sure I'll be doing a stroker.

Pete K

No I don't regret it, I figured a few guys would have a couple "special" answers about lengthening a different stroke. Thanks for explaining this CFI. I knew basically what it was all about but was wondering the specific parts I would need to do a stroker. Since I posted earlier I have found a parts supplier who has a crank made especially for the 350 block while using the 5.7 rods and the 350 pistons in .030 over of course. I will of course need the flexplate and harmonic balancer to go with this crank. The part I'm going to have to ask the supplier is about the stroker pistons you mentioned. According to his information they aren't needed with this crank.
Thanks for the added info Pete, now I'm 99% sure I'll be doing a stroker.[/QUOTE]

The crank adds the 1/4 inch of stroke. If you reuses a 350 piston, it will pop out of the bore approx 1/4 inch. If the head is installed, it will smack it. The 383 pistons have a wrist pin hole that is 1/4 inch higher in the piston. This causes the extra stroke to go down, instead of up. This results in rod bolt to cam clearance issues. This is solved by grinding the bolt head a bit. It will also require a bit of clearancing to the block near the pan rail. Factory notches are profiled a bit more. The oil pan man need a couple of smacks with a ball peen hammer too. This is all a normal part of building a stroker. I am doing a 396 stroker for Beppe (conv90). This will require even more care on my part to avoid a collision of the components.

TRACKMAN2

ABOUT 6 GRAND DONT FORGET NEW CHIP NEW RADIATOR NEW CLUTCH NEW HEADERS NEW INJECTORS THE LIST GOES ON!!!!!!!!

Edmond

What I've seen some guys do is go with something like an Eagle rotating assembly and have a shop do the machine work.

I wouldn't risk a D36 or a stock 700R4 with a 383.

What intake, TPI or LTx? I would imagine that the TPI would lower the RPM range where you're making maximum power, wouldn't it?

I think the LTx intakes would love the 383, not that the TPI wouldn't but the LTx would obviously make much more high end HP.

Personally, I'm in the attitude that a project like this takes years to do unless you really have a lot of money set aside. I mean, you do the motor, the trans, the rear end and other things that are really necessary. Then you get to thinking that you've put this much into the car already so you decide that the aging interior and paint job should be done as well. Get where I'm going?

ALLT4

Yeah it's a disease called Hot Roding.

85blkrose

to get right down to it. what makes a 383 stroker is a good builder and 3000 +bucks.

Midnight 85

Since I had already purchased a new set of pistons for the upcoming rebuild and don't want to buy another set I have decided not to go with the stroker idea. Maybe next time, the mechanicals of it are no big deal, just all the added costs and future drive train issues.

85blkrose

it is best to go sit down with a good reputable builder and discuss your plans and goal for a stroker there are many options for a new engine. and its costs! heads,short block,intake/plenum,runners, headers, exhaust,trans all the usual incidentals and chip tunning. got bout 7000 or so under the hood. if you are gonna do it do it right dont skimp this is something you dont want to do over anytime soon unless you are crappin fitty dollar bills.