HELP: Mini Ram install pics needed for 90 L-98.
#1
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
HELP: Mini Ram install pics needed for 90 L-98.
i am installing a Mini Ram on the 90 L-98 of a friends. the manifold is on, but we ran into a couple little glitchest so far. I need pics and explanations if possible for the vacuum lines(No EGR going on as no place to), map sensor, and most important the braided fuel lines and tools needed.
TPIS sent one braided line, long enough to be cut, to complete the fuel system. Is there a tool to buy to get the fittings to go on the line etc. I have never done braided lines.
Also, near the distributor there was a brass fitting with a thin metal coolant line going to it that tee'd off of a fitting by the fenderwell. Does anyone know the importance of this as we blocked it off as there is no place on the new manifold to attach anyways.
The Map sensor needs a mounting point. ANy suggestions?
The throttle cables and TV cable section havent been istalled on the manifold yet, so photos and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, In Advance, Steve
TPIS sent one braided line, long enough to be cut, to complete the fuel system. Is there a tool to buy to get the fittings to go on the line etc. I have never done braided lines.
Also, near the distributor there was a brass fitting with a thin metal coolant line going to it that tee'd off of a fitting by the fenderwell. Does anyone know the importance of this as we blocked it off as there is no place on the new manifold to attach anyways.
The Map sensor needs a mounting point. ANy suggestions?
The throttle cables and TV cable section havent been istalled on the manifold yet, so photos and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, In Advance, Steve
Last edited by steve40th; 09-10-2006 at 04:29 PM.
#3
Le Mans Master
Just above trans. dip stick and using a firewall screw is where I located the MAP. You have 4 ports for vac., I spliced the MAP on the vac. line coming from the cruise (on back of firewall between brake boost and valve cover)so that brake and PCV had a separate source. The linkage bracket will most likely need to be modified. I re-drilled the holes approx. 3/4" further back in the corner of the bracket to allow the cables to have room for adjustment. If necessary I have additional pics. Hope this helps
#6
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by steve40th
Thanks MSEVEN. Great looking engine.
I also noticed you have metal lines. Did TPIS have these available?
I also noticed you have metal lines. Did TPIS have these available?
Yes it one of their parts, I thought for the first go-round I would try and make it a little easier on myself and use parts designed for the intake. On the new motor I will be running the lines up from the filter up the firewall and to the motor.
Some other things I remembered on the doing the set-up.
On the cooolant line/fitting that went to the back of the intake from the reservoir, I just blocked that line. The MAT was relocated only to have one more available vac. port. If you aren't doing that, 2 vac. lines will end up being doubled. I used an Earl's 90* (npt and regular thread)with a nipple end at the front of the intake to connect the coolant line to front of the intake.
The IAC housing will also need to be modified to clear the waterneck. (when IAC housing is removed, you will see an embossed line that surround the pocketed area around the IAC, you will no longer have the coolant line going there)
I would think summit etc. sell the tools to assemble braided hoses(aeroquip).
Off the top of my head this is what I remember doing, so if you need more pics. or info, feel free to shoot me a PM.
Last edited by mseven; 09-10-2006 at 08:29 PM.
#8
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by mikey whipreck
That looks awesome.
Would you be able to use the LTx fuel rail covers if you wanted?
Would you be able to use the LTx fuel rail covers if you wanted?
#9
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I am considering a mini ram. I have also called TPIS to ask about any "funny stuff" during installation.
They said that when you order make sure you provide the correct year of the car, and the installation should be no more than "unbolting one peice of aluminum and bolting on another".
I sent them an e-mial with a link to this thread. I'd like to konw what I am getting into if I do this.
They said that when you order make sure you provide the correct year of the car, and the installation should be no more than "unbolting one peice of aluminum and bolting on another".
I sent them an e-mial with a link to this thread. I'd like to konw what I am getting into if I do this.
#10
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by jsup
when you order make sure you provide the correct year of the car, and the installation should be no more than "unbolting one peice of aluminum and bolting on another"..
It is better nowadays, but they do have most of this in their instructions that come with the intake.
Forum member Jake just did the same install this week and posted a thread, and would be a good read for you.
I don't think there is any aftermarket parts that won't require some additional work. It is some work but really isn't all that bad, if you haven't done one before it will take a couple of days of playing/learning curve (and "while I'm in there stuff"). Once set-up, maintenance is very nice.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Originally Posted by mseven
You're welcome.
Yes it one of their parts, I thought for the first go-round I would try and make it a little easier on myself and use parts designed for the intake. On the new motor I will be running the lines up from the filter up the firewall and to the motor.
Some other things I remembered on the doing the set-up.
On the cooolant line/fitting that went to the back of the intake from the reservoir, I just blocked that line. The MAT was relocated only to have one more available vac. port. If you aren't doing that, 2 vac. lines will end up being doubled. I used an Earl's 90* (npt and regular thread)with a nipple end at the front of the intake to connect the coolant line to front of the intake.
The IAC housing will also need to be modified to clear the waterneck. (when IAC housing is removed, you will see an embossed line that surround the pocketed area around the IAC, you will no longer have the coolant line going there)
I would think summit etc. sell the tools to assemble braided hoses(aeroquip).
Off the top of my head this is what I remember doing, so if you need more pics. or info, feel free to shoot me a PM.
Yes it one of their parts, I thought for the first go-round I would try and make it a little easier on myself and use parts designed for the intake. On the new motor I will be running the lines up from the filter up the firewall and to the motor.
Some other things I remembered on the doing the set-up.
On the cooolant line/fitting that went to the back of the intake from the reservoir, I just blocked that line. The MAT was relocated only to have one more available vac. port. If you aren't doing that, 2 vac. lines will end up being doubled. I used an Earl's 90* (npt and regular thread)with a nipple end at the front of the intake to connect the coolant line to front of the intake.
The IAC housing will also need to be modified to clear the waterneck. (when IAC housing is removed, you will see an embossed line that surround the pocketed area around the IAC, you will no longer have the coolant line going there)
I would think summit etc. sell the tools to assemble braided hoses(aeroquip).
Off the top of my head this is what I remember doing, so if you need more pics. or info, feel free to shoot me a PM.
Its not a simple bolt on, but it isnt as bad as it could be.
#12
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That coolant line you blocked off - is nothing more then a capillary line to get the air out of the system.
To cut the braided line - measure and find the area to be cut on the hose
wrap it with electrical tape tight - mark the cut line and have at it with a new fine tooth hack saw blade - then unwrap the tape and finish the assembly.
Fot the IAT/MAt relocation - I hope you grabbed the 2 wire behind the distributor before hand -
I used a 3/4" uni bit and it did a fine job for the new iat sensor grommet.
To cut the braided line - measure and find the area to be cut on the hose
wrap it with electrical tape tight - mark the cut line and have at it with a new fine tooth hack saw blade - then unwrap the tape and finish the assembly.
Fot the IAT/MAt relocation - I hope you grabbed the 2 wire behind the distributor before hand -
I used a 3/4" uni bit and it did a fine job for the new iat sensor grommet.
#13
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St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Originally Posted by jd_v3tt3
That coolant line you blocked off - is nothing more then a capillary line to get the air out of the system.
To cut the braided line - measure and find the area to be cut on the hose
wrap it with electrical tape tight - mark the cut line and have at it with a new fine tooth hack saw blade - then unwrap the tape and finish the assembly.
Fot the IAT/MAt relocation - I hope you grabbed the 2 wire behind the distributor before hand -
I used a 3/4" uni bit and it did a fine job for the new iat sensor grommet.
To cut the braided line - measure and find the area to be cut on the hose
wrap it with electrical tape tight - mark the cut line and have at it with a new fine tooth hack saw blade - then unwrap the tape and finish the assembly.
Fot the IAT/MAt relocation - I hope you grabbed the 2 wire behind the distributor before hand -
I used a 3/4" uni bit and it did a fine job for the new iat sensor grommet.
#14
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by steve40th
In regards to the MAT, why did you recommend grabbing it? The connector? Can you explain
True it isn't a simple bolt-on like the directions seem, however when it is complete it is real user friendly.
#16
Le Mans Master
I posted a couple of times about the small problems I had when I installed my MiniRam II a couple of weeks ago. I know my 86 setup is slightly different that yours, but you'll probably encounter some of the same things to tweak as I did.
Do a Search under my name on this board and you'll find them.'
All in all, it wasn't too bad, just some things were unanticipated and had to be figured out.
Keep us posted.
Jake
Do a Search under my name on this board and you'll find them.'
All in all, it wasn't too bad, just some things were unanticipated and had to be figured out.
Keep us posted.
Jake
#18
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by c4 4 me
Jake, is yours an iron head '86, or the later alum. head?
Jake
#19
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Originally Posted by JAKE
It was originally an iron head, early, 86, but I installed aluminum heads many years ago.
Jake
Jake
#20
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by c4 4 me
Thanks, mines an early one also, and I'll be switching to alum. heads too in the future when the motor gets a freshen. I guess I was wondering if the mini will work on the factory iron heads, and then later on aftermarket aluminum.
Jake