LannyL81

Have decided to remove the crank hub so I can take the front cover off and replace all the front seals as it looks like its the crank seal that is leaking and making a complete mess out of the front of the engine.

Would like to know how others have gotten this thing off. Looks like the steering rack needs to come loose and go up so a puller can be used. Is this correct?

Although I have read that the hub is zero balanced, is it best to mark its postion on the crank and put it back the same? Or should I not bother with that part?

Of course have to get the blasted thing off first....

Anyone bored and what to come over and do this??????

Thanks

STL94LT1

I use a normal wheel/balancer puller to pull the hub. It is a tight fit, but you don't have to pull or loosen the rack. Also, don't forget to loosen the hub's center bolt before you start to pull the hub.

STL94LT1

You pay the airfair, and I'll bring the puller.

neat

Swearing, lots of swearing... and a case of beer.

Take your time, and you have to position the puller so it pushes on the center bolt. The nose of the puller is too large to fit through the hub on to the crank. When I did it, I ended up buying some longer 7/16 bolts and threading them into the crank. That gave the puller something to push on.

LannyL81

But by the time you drive up to the airport from O'Fallon, you're could be half way to Tucson, AZ....might as well head out I-44 West and forget about I-270 North....just drive the the other half of the way, forget the airfare....

LannyL81

Tom Piper

As long as you have the hub off, if there is even a tiny groove in the hub, don't just replace the seal, put a "readi sleeve" on the hub too.
If the hub has any groove at all, it will probably leak even with a new seal.
The redi-sleeve is easy to put on and cheap insurance.

Tom Piper

WEH 2000C5

Tom Piper, please explain for my benifit , what ready sleeve is & where to obtain it.
Thank You , Warren

Corvette Kid

Any good parts store should have them or can get them. I know NAPA does.

96GS#007

I use the GM tool. Makes it a 5 minute operation. I bought mine off of e-Bay for $100...

Tom Piper

Redi-sleeve, speedi-sleeve is the same thing.

I prefer the stainless steel version.

http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/speedi_sleeves.htm

Tom Piper

jsavoy

I had a bear of a time getting mine off as well using the method listed above. I found that a little heat from a small propane torch did the trick. I left the puller in place, cleared the area of flammables-poured a bit of water over everything for good measure and heated it as evenly as I could--it came right off...

LannyL81

That Gm tool looks very nice...no wonder it only took five minutes...nice thick strong piece of metal there. See one on ebay too.

The sleeve for the crank....I like this idea. Cank anyone verify the SKF part number I have of 480177 is the correct one? The SKF website only has dimensions...and I have no idea what the crankshaft dimensions are.

How is this sleeve installed...does it require an installation tool or can I use a block of wood?

Thanks for the info...especialy about the hole in the hub is too small for the puller...no wonder it was not coming off....should have checked that...if I could see in there, which I can't!!!!!

Later,
LannyL81

Tom Piper

Some things to know about the GM Kent-Moore tool:
1) When pulling the crank hub, it doesn't use the threads in the crankshaft -- the tool goes through the threads and bottoms against the inside of the crankshaft. Therefore, it can't cause any thread damage when pulling the hub.
2) It is several pieces that assemble in place. For that confined area with the steering rack in place, it is much easier to assemble the puller/installer in place.
3) It has a ball-bearing for thrust, making it easier to use.

Some versions of the Speedi-Sleeve come with an install tool and some don't -- it depends on the manufacturer.
Either way, it is easy to install.

Tom Piper

LannyL81

Hub is off.......and it has two nice shiny rings from the seal. Going to put the sleeve on it.

I sure like that Kent-Moore GM tool....but I ended up just using a generic puller plus two 3/8" bolts of different lengths to give the puller something to push against that did not use the crank threads. Other than the tight quarters, it worked okay...had to assemble/disassemble the puller twice in order to change out the 3/8" bolts...but took total of 10 minutes.

I was hoping to take the front cover off and leave the oil pan on...but that didn't work....tore the oil pan gasket, so now I get to drop the pan and replace that gasket as well.

The timing chain has about 1/4" to 3/8" of play on the passenger's side; tight on the driver's side. So now I am wondering if I should replace the chain now or wait until I possibly do an engine rebuild.

Will this job ever end??????

LannyL81

STL94LT1

That's fairly normal, even on low mileage engines.

BrianCunningham

Nice puller! I made do with a standard 3 claw type.
Nice marks on the hub location too.

Vetracr

Take this advice to heart. I just replaced the crank seal on my 93 LT-1 only to find I still have a leak. I was super careful to check the hub for a groove but I could not see or feel anything, (the old run your nail over surface trick). If only I'd known about the sleeve sooner. I'll have to take it apart and do it again. I hate LT-1's.

Larry

STL94LT1

I installed a hub sleeve and replaced the crank seal, and still had an oil leak. Next teardown I replaced the hub, and no leaks since (knock on wood).

LannyL81

I did the fingernail method as well...not able to feel a groove, but going to put the sleeve on as well. Sure did not like reading about still having a leak after putting the sleeve on though...

Going to just clean-up the hub, install the sleeve and new seals and hope for the best. Also need to make a tool for the water pump seal onto the water pump drive....to keep that lip pointing inwards...guess I will be getting a dry erase marker or a highlighter today...

I just hope the rain holds off as I am in the driveway doing all of this and the pavement is cold enough without being wet as well.

Tom Piper

I don't understand why it would leak with a sleeve -- mine doesn't.
However, if the groove is deep, I've been told to fill it with JB Weld or something similar and smooth it up before installing the sleeve. This is to keep the sleeve from "denting" inward.
Also, make sure the sleeve is centered on the area where the seal seats. It is possible to position the sleeve so the seal would be at the end -- not good.

You mean it rains in Arizona?
I thought that only happened in Florida.

Tom Piper