95 dana 36 to dana 44 conversion?
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95 dana 36 to dana 44 conversion?
Hey guy's! I just picked up a 87 dana 44 to replace my dana 36 I have now and looking things over I noticed that the bolts that hold the spindle support rod to the case are smaller in the dana 44 than the dana 36 that I am replaceing. So what do I do? Should I drill out the case and case cover holes biger on the dana 44 that I am putting in so my bolts will fit it? Is there anyone that has ran into this problem? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Ray
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St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Hey guy's! I just picked up a 87 dana 44 to replace my dana 36 I have now and looking things over I noticed that the bolts that hold the spindle support rod to the case are smaller in the dana 44 than the dana 36 that I am replaceing. So what do I do? Should I drill out the case and case cover holes biger on the dana 44 that I am putting in so my bolts will fit it? Is there anyone that has ran into this problem? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Ray
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St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Not if you get the ones to go with the 44 as I did. The correct driveshaft is about an inch shorter but some have said they used the A4 shaft as is. I would shorten it if it was me. However, since the differential in a Vette is stationary, there's for all practical purposes no movement of the transmission yoke fore or aft once it's installed. The beam will need redrilled at the front. I'd recommend adding beam plates if this is done though, to compensate for any weakening from the extra holes. They can be easily fabricated.
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I'm getting ready to do the same thing. When you drilled the holes, did you do it with a hand drill and kept it steady as she goes or did ou use a mill. Would it be possilbe to mount the diff into a mill to drill these holes.
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Not if you get the ones to go with the 44 as I did. The correct driveshaft is about an inch shorter but some have said they used the A4 shaft as is. I would shorten it if it was me. However, since the differential in a Vette is stationary, there's for all practical purposes no movement of the transmission yoke fore or aft once it's installed. The beam will need redrilled at the front. I'd recommend adding beam plates if this is done though, to compensate for any weakening from the extra holes. They can be easily fabricated.
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Not if you get the ones to go with the 44 as I did. The correct driveshaft is about an inch shorter but some have said they used the A4 shaft as is. I would shorten it if it was me. However, since the differential in a Vette is stationary, there's for all practical purposes no movement of the transmission yoke fore or aft once it's installed. The beam will need redrilled at the front. I'd recommend adding beam plates if this is done though, to compensate for any weakening from the extra holes. They can be easily fabricated.
Thanks, Ray
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St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Hello Chris! I got my drive shaft shortend one inch. I drilled holes in my c-beam one inch back from where they were. Got everything bolted up and the spindle rod brakckets won't bolt up unless I pry it to the rear. It looks like it is about 1/2" off from bolting up. I looked at the lugs where it bolt up on the dana 36 and the offset is different between the two differentials. Did you happen to have this broblem with yours and if you did how did you fix it? I called a couple of conversion dealers and they said it should bolt up but looking at the off set I would say that there is a problem with the two different offsets.
Thanks, Ray
Thanks, Ray
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No I did not. The brackets we talked about were I had to drill them out biger for the larger bolt that were in the 36. Those brackets. When I push the bottom spindle rod up to bolt them in place they are about a 1/2" forward. If I pullthem back I can force them up on but then it is going to tilt my wheels inward.
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St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
No I did not. The brackets we talked about were I had to drill them out biger for the larger bolt that were in the 36. Those brackets. When I push the bottom spindle rod up to bolt them in place they are about a 1/2" forward. If I pullthem back I can force them up on but then it is going to tilt my wheels inward.
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I bought mine from ZR-51 performance ($165); they fabricate them on site and I can tell you the quality is obvious.
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St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
I'm not suprised that this could be the case with rubber bushings. This is why I never liked hearing of people using the A4 length shaft in these conversions. For no more than it costs to shorten one, I've always recommemnded that if the correct shaft is not available. I'll retain this info and pass it on when needed.
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FYI, The slide yoke does allow for movement from bushing flex and probably some other flex in the components. On my '94 ZF-6 w/ Dana 44. I just measured a full 3/4 inch between the closest and furthest seal marks on the slide yoke of the driveshaft.
I bought mine from ZR-51 performance ($165); they fabricate them on site and I can tell you the quality is obvious.
I bought mine from ZR-51 performance ($165); they fabricate them on site and I can tell you the quality is obvious.
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I'm not suprised that this could be the case with rubber bushings. This is why I never liked hearing of people using the A4 length shaft in these conversions. For no more than it costs to shorten one, I've always recommemnded that if the correct shaft is not available. I'll retain this info and pass it on when needed.
Chris, if you want to give me your e-mail I will e-mail you pics of the two different thickness differential lugs where the camber brackets bolt up. Bye the way, thanks for all the help.
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