sxyvet

hi there guys,
how are ya!
im looking at putting a new performance aftermarket water pump for my engine at the same time as getting my cam and 1.6 ratio roller rockers but i didnt want go down the path of the electric water pump though to free up a little hp!
i saw corvette central sell a " edelbrock " high performance water pump
for $189.95 ,# 244493!

do you know of any other brand high performance water pump around please?

can a hp water pump, non electric water pump help to free up any lost power?

and do they aid in better water flow as well please?

do you have links at all please to this?
thanks
glen

bogus

stick with EOM unless you want something shiney. A performance mechanical waterpump might improve things, but I think they are a waste of $$.

Real performance comes from an electric... but do they make them for the 1991?

Black Cloud

New Player here.I've got the electric water pump.Works great.
John

Casethecorvetteman

Gday Black Cloud, welcome to the forum mate

Your car being a 96 has a different engine to the 91 (which Glen has, although i dont think he stated that in his post), and the water pump is different too.

Glen if you want to free up power by removing parrasitic drag, the only way to go is electric water pump. But as Bogus asked, id imagine he had never seen one for an L98, and ive gotta say ive never seen or heard of one either.

No matter what water pump you put on it, its still going to do the same job, and i cant see there being a big advantage to the aftermarket piece apart from looks.

Put a bigger pulley on it and it wont take as much power to turn it. Dont expect much extra though.

aboatguy

Meziere makes SBC pumps, I'm sure others do to.

<edited> I just searched summit for 1991 electric water pumps (for a 5.7/350) and recieved 65 hits so electric pumps are out there.


However, I don't know whether its worth the money for an L98. (not starting a LT1 vs L98 war)....but
I added an electric pump in order to use a double roller timing chain; L98s can use a normal pump and a double roller chain.

moore299

Welcome Black Cloud.

aboatguy

OOOPS,

I dug deeper into Summits listing and most won't work with serpantine systems. So the electric option may not be there for the L98 C4 w/o some work.

Casethecorvetteman

Gday ABoatGuy, long time no see mate Have you got that 95 of yours sorted out yet mate???


So Glen, there ya have it mate, you probably can get an electric pump, but as ABoatGuy said, he went with the electric water pump in order to use an after market timing chain (cause the standard timing set on an LT1 drives the water pump, aftermarket sets dont) which is no advantage to you with your L98, the water pump is belt driven.

I reckon if the one you have now is ok just reuse it mate.

Casethecorvetteman

Mate i was wondering about that bit myself, there would be abit of stuffing around if you took the water pump pulley out of the belt path. I think Glen has also removed his A/C so im not sure what he has done in terms of the A/C compressor. If that is gone it may just be doable, just the power steering and alternator left to drive. (unless im forgetting something else....)

Pete K

I could not have said it any better.

mseven

if cooling is the isssue, I would consider a radiator swap or fan options.

Aardwolf

I think it's Stewart that makes a nicely priced water pump. I put the Edelbrock pump in mine a few years ago, it's cost at that time wasn't any more then the OEM pump and the quality looks much better. I put in a new pump because my stock pump went bad. An electric pump would be nice! Here is the Stewart link:

http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Mer...de=ChevyHiFlWP

jfb

I put the Stewart ($104 to my doorstep) on my 87 L98. Stewart claims it pumps more than Edelbrock and my 87 stays cooler in the summer!
P.S. Those that think an electric waterpump doesn't cause parasitic drag have been out in the sun too long! Power for the electric motor on the waterpump comes from the alternator and your engine has to pay for the inefficiency of BOTH the alternator AND the electric motor!!!

VetNutJim

I installed the Stewart HP pump on my '91 when the original pump started crying out the weep hole.

It didn't make it run 1* cooler than the stock pump.

sxyvet

hi there all guys,
thanks for all your help/comments guys!

i noticed in the " jegs" catologes that there is quite a few different brands there but they mention them under short vs long,what does this mean?
are they talking about where the radiator hose attaches too are they do you think please?
thanks guys!
cheers
glen

5pinball

it refers to distance from timeing chain cover to water pump.i THINK vette uses short pump. i havent had to replace one yet, so im not sure. anyways it a bump for you.

Snakeskinner

My Stewart dint improve my cooling a bit that I can tell.
Has any one tried the Meziere MECHANICAL pump?

Steel Breeze

Wanna make your million? Design a bolt on serpentine pulley system, and the right drive belt, so you can remove the stock water pump, then put on the electric.

I would have gone electric right away. If they would have had such a kit. When it's 110* outside, and the city road surface is 160*. I wouldn't mind flowing 55 gallons of coolant at idle waiting at a never ending stop light. Your stocker, or your aftermarket high volume unit, isn't anywhere near that, at idle. I guess it depends alot on where you drive, and where you live... my two cents...

Corvette Kid

Why not an underdrive pulley system ? Since your stated goal is to reduce drag, this will reduce it from all of the driven components.

c4cruiser

The stock water pump will flow more than enough coolant to keep the engine supplied. The coolant temperatures are controlled by the thermostat, the fans, and the ability of the radiator to exchange the heat in the coolant as it passes through the tubes. The amount of air that flows through the radiator also determines how good of a job it does.

The C4 is a "bottom breather" in that cooling air enters the radiator from under the front of the car and passes through the cooling fins. If the radiator has dirt and debris in it (between the tubes or junk sitting in front of the fins) the radiator will not do a good job of cooling. If the tubes are clogged from poor maintenance, that makes cooling that much more difficult to accomplish.

Over years of use, the cooling tubes in the radiator become very thin due to the friction of the coolant flowing through them. Once the metal tubes get too thin, they lose their ability to effectively transfer heat. By the same token, if the fins have been bent from years of debris hitting them (even though they are behind the A/C condensor) air cannot easily pass around and thru the tubes.

No amount of cooling system pressure or the amount of coolant moved by a high-flow or super gee-whiz performance water pump is going to increase the ability of a worn out or clogged radiator to keep coolant temps down.

The trick to effective C4 cooling is to have a radiator that has no dirt or debris around the tubes and fins, a good thermostat that open properly and does not otherwise restrict coolant flow, a pressure cap of the correct rating, and good coolant in the proper ratio.

You can turn the fans on earlier, use a lower temp thermostat, add Water Wetter or other products, but if the rest of the system is not in good shape so that the pieces can do their job, you will only put off trouble for awhile.