C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

So I went to buy oil for my 85 today, whats ZDDP?

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Old 02-28-2007, 05:00 PM
  #41  
BADDUCK
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Also in regard to the gaskets used.

Did GM change the type of RTV used on the rear diffs? Did they upgrade from cork gaskets at some point?

Both of these leaked on mine with synthetic oil.
I'm not sure on the differential gaskets for GM. My rule of thumb is NEVER change from dino to full synthetic without a damn good well researched reason.
I did it on my motorcycle but have never done it on a car or truck. I did put Synthetic Blend Valvoline in my Vette this winter but I drive more in winter than summer, and the blend gave me a 5W-30 rating and only has about 10% synthetic IIRC. No leaks so far. It ran 18 years on Dino.
Old 02-28-2007, 05:33 PM
  #42  
thecatmac
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Originally Posted by garychurchill
Does this only affect the mid-eighties vettes? I have a 95.
84,85, 86 from what I can see.
Old 02-28-2007, 05:39 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ittybittyfds
somebody make this simple....

mobile1 yes or no
Looks like Mobil 1 = No...............Dayum.

Do I need to drain this stuff out NOW???????????????????
My '84 Vette and my TPI pickup truck both have flat-tappet camshafts.... and Mobil One oil with NO wear additives.

I feel so..... viloated.
Old 02-28-2007, 05:44 PM
  #44  
thecatmac
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Originally Posted by VetNutJim
Looks like Mobil 1 = No...............Dayum.

Do I need to drain this stuff out NOW???????????????????
My '84 Vette and my TPI pickup truck both have flat-tappet camshafts.... and Mobil One oil with NO wear additives.

I feel so..... viloated.
I would just get one of the additives from above and add it in. I believe the OEM is only 4 ounces, you should be able to just add that with no worries.
Old 02-28-2007, 05:48 PM
  #45  
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GM EOS assembly lubricant (PN 1052367), currently sold in a 16-ounce plastic bottle, is an excellent concentrate for breaking in a new cam. Your favorite cam company should offer a similar product. If running API SM/GF-4 street oils, consider adding a 4-ounce bottle of GM camshaft and lifter prelube (PN 12345501) at every oil change to protect in-service flat tappets.
Old 02-28-2007, 07:21 PM
  #46  
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That sounds like a GOOD plan.
Looks like I'll be getting it ASAP.
Think I'll run the additive continuously in my older engines.
Heck, I'm building a flat tappet SBC back in the shop NOW!!!

First the lead out of the fuel so it eats our valve seats and now this.

Is this ALL about cleaner air and greener grass or is there some other motive.

I'm all for hugging the trees but ^%#*)$^#Q I REALLY like my engines.
Old 03-01-2007, 04:45 PM
  #47  
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Wouldn't it be better just to use an oil that has what you need? Why put in a high priced oil like Mobil 1, then add a high priced additive when you can just use an oil that already has what you need?
Old 03-02-2007, 11:19 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by BADDUCK
Wouldn't it be better just to use an oil that has what you need? Why put in a high priced oil like Mobil 1, then add a high priced additive when you can just use an oil that already has what you need?
That's good for next time...... There's several cases of Mobil 1 in my shop bought middle of February.

I JUST changed the oil in my '84 Vette and my '73 TPI truck and and my '73 454 truck filled them with Mobil 1.

Heck, ANTI-WEAR is the reason I change the oil ANYWAY!!!
If not for that I'd leave the stuff in there forever.

Eliminating the wear additive just sounds so...WRONG.

Thanks to the forum though for the edjamacation!
Old 03-02-2007, 01:35 PM
  #49  
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I have learned a ton on this thread.

I do , however, need a bottom line

I love Castrol GTX 20-50.....I have been using it forever, in everything. I can't find anything on that particular brand except the .0075 number. Do it or do it not have what I need?

Secondly, I m not sure why peeps don't like STP. It has been used as an assembly Lube for Years.

Anyway, Do I need to add STP or Whatever to Castrol GTX? Has Castrol been bought by a large Corp? Are they changing for the worse?
Old 03-02-2007, 01:53 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
Do it or do it not have what I need? ?
Good question.
I thinks we've uncovered as many new questions as answers to old questions!

How much ZDDP is required? The more the merrier? or is .01% enough?

How much ZDDP is in STP Stabilizer? The STP promo says "more than leading additives". What is their definition of "leading additive" and how much do they have, if any? How much more? If the leading additive is Slick50 and Slick50 is Teflon-based, not ZDDP-based, then STP would have "more ZDDP" even if it had only 1 Parts Per Billion ZDDP...

The fact that the STP website does not list "anti-wear additives" as one of the benefits of the STP Stabilizer makes me question whether STP is a good source of additional ZDDP. Same with GM EOS and Cam/Lifter Lube; do we know for a fact that these contain high concentrations of ZDDP, or even if they contain any at all?

Nobody's talking and we are making assumptions.

Larry
code5coupe
Old 03-02-2007, 08:58 PM
  #51  
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API CERTIFIED OIL HAS THIS ON THE BOTTLE. Any oil that has more zddp additive is NOT certified.

I bought this for my 85, will be changing the oil in about a month.



VR1 Racing Motor Oil's exclusive chemistry is designed to reduce friction and enhance power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including CART, stock car and drag racing. It is recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels in track and street service.


"High performance and protection for today's engines that run at high RPM.
New ashless anti-wear additives combined with ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection.
Enhanced anti-foam system helps protect the engine even during extreme stress.
Enhanced additives protect against high-temperature deposits for a cleaner engine.
Friction modifiers help improve horsepower output."

Last edited by thecatmac; 03-02-2007 at 09:09 PM.
Old 03-02-2007, 10:04 PM
  #52  
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Default here is my.02

Hey Guys,
Keep in mind its not the Cats getting damaged by the additives , its the O2 Sensor that gets the build up causing premature failure

Desert
Old 03-02-2007, 10:13 PM
  #53  
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Default Nice Post

Originally Posted by thecatmac
The ZDDP level is causing concern for older engines
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/news/060316b.php

By: Keith Ansell, Foreign Parts Positively, Inc.

About a year ago I read about the reduction of zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils supplied with API approval that could affect sliding and high pressure (EP) friction in our cars. The reduction of these chemicals in supplied oil was based on the fact that zinc, manganese and/or phosphates reduce the effectiveness and eventually damage catalytic converters and introduce minute amounts of pollutants into our atmosphere.

A month or so ago I had a member of the Columbia Gorge MG Club bring a totally failed camshaft and lifters back to me that had only 900 miles on them!! I immediately contacted the camshaft re-grinder and asked how this could happen. They were well aware of this problem as they were starting to have many failures of this type. In the past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft assembly lubricant, at assembly, was about the only thing that could create this type of problem. My customer has assembled many engines and had lubricated the camshaft properly and followed correct break in procedures.

This got me on the phone to Delta Camshaft, one of our major suppliers. Then the bad news came out: It’s today’s “modern” API (American Petroleum Industry) approved oils that are killing our engines.

Next call: To another major camshaft supplier, both stock and performance (Crane). They now have an additive for whatever oil you are using during break-in so that the camshaft and lifters won’t fail in an unreasonably short period of time. They also suggest using a diesel rated oil on flat tappet engines.

Next call: To a racing oil manufacturer that we use for the race cars (Redline). Their response: “We are well aware of the problem and we still use the correct amounts of those additives in our products”. They continued to tell me they are not producing API approved oils so they don’t have to test and comply. Their oils were NOT the “new, improved and approved” ones that destroy flat tappet engines! “We just build the best lubricants possible”. Sounds stupid, doesn’t it, New-Approved but inferior products, but it seems to be true for our cars.

To top this off: Our representative from a major supplier of performance and street engine parts (EPWI) stopped by to “warn us” of the problem of the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a call that the representative was making only because of this problem to warn their engine builders! “The reduction of the zinc, manganese and phosphates are causing very early destruction of cams and followers”. They are recommending that, for now at least, there must be a proper oil additive put in the first oil used on new engines, beyond the liberal use of molydisulfide assembly lube. They have been told that the first oil is the time the additives are needed but remain skeptical that the first change is all that is necessary. Their statement: Use diesel rated oils such as Delo or Rotella that are usually available at auto stores and gas stations.

This problem is BIG! American Engine Rebuilder's Association (AERA) Bulletin #TB2333 directly addresses this problem. I had a short discussion with their engineer and he agreed with all that I had been finding.

Next phone call was to a retired engineer from Clevite, a major bearing and component manufacturer. First surprise was that he restored older British Motor bikes. The second surprise was that he was “VERY” aware of this problem because many of the old bikes had rectangular tappets that couldn’t rotate and are having a very large problem with the new oils. He has written an article for the British Bike community that verify all the “bad news” we have been finding.

Comp Cams put out “#225 Tech Bulletin: Flat Tappet Camshafts”. They have both an assembly lube and an oil additive. The telling sentence in the bulletin was “While this additive was originally developed specifically for break-in protection, subsequent testing has proven the durability benefits of its long term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to remove from the off the–shelf oil”.

Next question: Now what do we do?

From the camshaft re-grinders (DeltaCam) “Use oils rated for diesel use”, Delo (Standard Oil product) was named. About the same price as other quality petroleum based oils. They are not API formulated and have the zinc dithiophosphate we need in weights we are familiar with.

From the camshaft manufacturer (Crane): “use our additive” for at least the first 500 miles.

From General Motors (Chevrolet): add EOS, their oil fortifier, to your oil, it’s only about $12.00 for each oil change for an 8 ounce can (This problem seems to be something GM has known about for some time!).

From Redline Oil: Use our street formulated synthetics. They have what we need!

From our major oil distributor: Distributing Castro, Redline, Va**oline and Industrial oils: “After over a week of contacts we have verified that the major oil companies are aware of the problem”. “The representatives of the oil companies today are only aware of marketing programs and have no knowledge of formulation”. The only major oil companies they were aware of for doing anything to address this are Va**oline that is offering an “Off Road 20W-50” and Redline.

From Castrol: We are beginning to see a pattern emerging on older cars. It may be advantageous to use a non-approved lubricant, such as oils that are Diesel rated, 4 Cycle Motorcycle oils and other specified diesel oils.

Last question: So what are we at Foreign Parts Positively going to do? After much research we are switching to Redline Street rated oils and stocking the Castrol products that are diesel rated. Castrol, owned by British Petroleum, is now just a brand name. This is a difficult decision as we have been a dealer and great believer in all Castrol Products for over 40 years. We have been using Castrol Syntech oil in new engines for about 3 years so the cost difference in changing to Redline is minimal. The actual cost in operation is also less as the additive package in Redline makes a 1-year or up to 18,000 mile change recommended! Yes, it is a long change interval but with lowered sulfur levels and the elimination of lead and many other chemicals in the fuels there are less contaminants in our oil from the fuel, which is the major contributor to oil degradation. We will continue to offer the Castrol products but will now only stock the suggested diesel oils that they produce.

Too many things are starting to show up on this subject and it has cost us money and time. Be aware that “New and Improved”, or even products we have been using for many years, are destroying our cars as it isn’t the same stuff we were getting even a year ago.

For the cars that use “engine oil” in their gearboxes this may even pose a problem as these additives that have been removed could be very critical in gear wear. We will be using oil specifically formulated for Manual Gearboxes with Brass Synchronizers. The only oils we are aware of that fit the criteria are from General Motors and Redline.


Great work!.
Guys keep in mind the majority of the wear problems is FLAT TAPPET LIFTERS , if you have a 1992 LT1 or newer it has a roller camshaft.
If a pre 1992 non roller camshaft I would add the GM "EOS" at every oil change.

DESERT
Old 03-07-2007, 01:32 AM
  #54  
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I bought EOS at my Chevy dealer. 8 bux for a small jar of the stuff.
Will probably split it among two of my flat tappet engines.


My thoughts on 'not' using an oil additive with more 'you name it here' are:
There are still a LOT of places in a roller cam engine where there are EXTREME pressures that WILL benefit from additional wear protectant and anti-scuff lubricant.

A couple that come to mind:

1) Roller Lifter Bearings.. the little roller 'wheel' bearings are under severe pressures.
2) Oil Pump Gears... the gears would certainly benefit from an anti-scuff agent. Gears and end plates are a tough environment.
3) Rocker arm fulcrums.. the ball/sockets of a non-roller rocker is an extreme pressure and a scuffing environment.
4) Piston skirts on ANY engine... we all KNOW that's a tough place for any lubricant.
5) Ring/Cylinder interface... Doesn't take much imagination to think you'd want all the protection you could get at those critical points in your engine.

There are more but that's enough to make me think my roller cam blocks aren't really safe either.

ROCCO raised some REALLY VALID points in his post above. Without empirical data that takes millions of bucks to accumalate, we're all just guessing because no one in a position to know is telling us anything.

Last edited by VetNutJim; 03-07-2007 at 01:35 AM.
Old 03-07-2007, 01:44 AM
  #55  
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A forum member just sent me some correspondence from Amsoil and Redline.


To sum it up:


Amsoil does not think ZDDP is necessary. They say the supposed wear problems are due to the allowable wear limits for certification being reduced, and junk metallurgy in the tappet lifters being used now.

Redline simply says it has ~.15 % ZDDP in all its oils to provide wear protection for flat-tappet motors.

Amsoil also believes in the easter bunny.
Old 03-07-2007, 06:41 AM
  #56  
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We recently tested all this stuff because we still use flat tappets in the cup engines. The newer oils are being reformulated to be "greener" if you will so maybe politics are really to blame for this one. In this case new and improved is not better but they did it anyway under the assumption that mostly cars equipped with roller cams are on the road now and they thought they could get away with the switch. The post quoted here has the correct answer and is a very good recommendation. If you have a roller cam continue to use your favorite correct weight synthetic or the factory recommended synthetic. If you have a flat tappet equipped engine add a bottle of 12345501 at each oil change and be confident you are protecting your cam. There are primarily three areas in an engine that are difficult to lubricate due to heat and or pressure: cam lobes, top ring/ ring land sliding contact surfaces, and piston pin bores. In a street driven engine the cam lobes are your main consideration. In a competition engine the ring lands and pin bores need better lubricants. ZDDP is the active ingredient of choice to solve all three problem areas.



Originally Posted by thecatmac


GM EOS assembly lubricant (PN 1052367), currently sold in a 16-ounce plastic bottle, is an excellent concentrate for breaking in a new cam. Your favorite cam company should offer a similar product. If running API SM/GF-4 street oils, consider adding a 4-ounce bottle of GM camshaft and lifter prelube (PN 12345501) at every oil change to protect in-service flat tappets.
Old 03-07-2007, 06:51 AM
  #57  
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To So I went to buy oil for my 85 today, whats ZDDP?

Old 03-07-2007, 08:16 AM
  #58  
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Rotella T 15w-40 has plenty of ZDDP and flows better than that 20w-50 Valvoline stuff which is recommened by NOBODY for a street driven Corvette, especially GM.
Old 03-07-2007, 08:22 AM
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Default Yea Rotella!

Originally Posted by BADDUCK
Rotella T 15w-40 has plenty of ZDDP and flows better than that 20w-50 Valvoline stuff which is recommened by NOBODY for a street driven Corvette, especially GM.


I like the Rotella also , use it everthing but the Vette (Mobil 1 with Gm EOS)

Desert
Old 03-07-2007, 10:11 AM
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It is interesting to note that some of the new high output production engines such as the new LS-7 now include anodized top ring lands in the pistons. This suggests GM's concerns about possible ring land micro-welding due to insufficient quantities of ZDDP in current SM rated oil.



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