Coilover on 85 with new shock towers
05-05-2007, 02:10 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Coilover on 85 with new shock towers
OK, I bought the Coil-over part list from Mo's website, www.ndneyes.com
Since the 1985 shock towers are wimpy and narrow, I cut them as seen in the pic below.
Then I machined some 1/4" thick 1018 CRS to match the same angles as the stock towers and ol'RJ welded them up.
The last pic is just the mock up of the new QA1 in the new tower.
We will weld the towers on tomorrow and i will post some new pics in a few days, once the wheel well area is cleaned and repainted,.
Since the 1985 shock towers are wimpy and narrow, I cut them as seen in the pic below.
Then I machined some 1/4" thick 1018 CRS to match the same angles as the stock towers and ol'RJ welded them up.
The last pic is just the mock up of the new QA1 in the new tower.
We will weld the towers on tomorrow and i will post some new pics in a few days, once the wheel well area is cleaned and repainted,.
05-05-2007, 03:18 PM
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
They look veritcal because they are hanging & there is no support under the A-arm
05-05-2007, 07:43 PM
#5
Team Owner
that is SERIOUSLY cool. Well done!
A little theory: The shock needs to be as close to 90* to parallel to the lever as possible. Otherwise there can be binding. With that said, I don't expect you to see much at 22* or so.
A few years ago, I applied that theory to an Associated RC10L3, electric 1/10th scale radio control pan car. A real RACE car in 1/10th scale. I realigned the rear shocks and the result was stunning. The handling was so much more predictable. The realignment also lowered them in the chassis, which I am sure helped. I picked up a .1 of a second per lap with that change. I call that significant.
A little theory: The shock needs to be as close to 90* to parallel to the lever as possible. Otherwise there can be binding. With that said, I don't expect you to see much at 22* or so.
A few years ago, I applied that theory to an Associated RC10L3, electric 1/10th scale radio control pan car. A real RACE car in 1/10th scale. I realigned the rear shocks and the result was stunning. The handling was so much more predictable. The realignment also lowered them in the chassis, which I am sure helped. I picked up a .1 of a second per lap with that change. I call that significant.
05-05-2007, 08:23 PM
#6
Race Director
Thread Starter
that is SERIOUSLY cool. Well done!
A little theory: The shock needs to be as close to 90* to parallel to the lever as possible. Otherwise there can be binding. With that said, I don't expect you to see much at 22* or so.
A few years ago, I applied that theory to an Associated RC10L3, electric 1/10th scale radio control pan car. A real RACE car in 1/10th scale. I realigned the rear shocks and the result was stunning. The handling was so much more predictable. The realignment also lowered them in the chassis, which I am sure helped. I picked up a .1 of a second per lap with that change. I call that significant.
A little theory: The shock needs to be as close to 90* to parallel to the lever as possible. Otherwise there can be binding. With that said, I don't expect you to see much at 22* or so.
A few years ago, I applied that theory to an Associated RC10L3, electric 1/10th scale radio control pan car. A real RACE car in 1/10th scale. I realigned the rear shocks and the result was stunning. The handling was so much more predictable. The realignment also lowered them in the chassis, which I am sure helped. I picked up a .1 of a second per lap with that change. I call that significant.
I had no idea what the "correct" angle would be, but the stock shocks are @ 25+ degrees on an 85 and I could not keep that angle without the OD of the coil rubbing. I will check to see what the actual angle is when they are welded on with the wheels on the ground.
My main goal was to make them strong, which I might have over done it some in that respect.
They will get arc welded to the frame tomorrow! I'll post some weld job pics tomorrow then some more pics when it's all cleaned up.
05-06-2007, 11:48 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
I agree with Bogus, the closer to 90 you can go, the better. The reality is the difference between say the 70 degrees versus 90 is the ratio of the shock movement to the wheel movement ( stock is almost 1:3) plus the effective spring rate using a 600 # spring to get around 400#) you would be right at 1:1 for the spring and spring rate...
However it ends up, it should really work nice.
It looks great !
MO
However it ends up, it should really work nice.
It looks great !
MO
05-06-2007, 12:07 PM
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks Mo, I am not sure what the shock length would need to be if it was more vertical, but I know in fact that it will not be the same angle as stock is, we're breaking out the arc welder right now so the fun is about to begin.
05-06-2007, 07:53 PM
#11
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks Bogus, I wish i could do this for a living 
if I had a milling machine in my garage I could have shaped the towers better
I cant wait to get it all back together, probably 2-3 weeks to go before I can drive it.
Next weekend hopefully I'll put the new SCAT crank & RAM conversion clutch in then set the engine back into the car.
if I had a milling machine in my garage I could have shaped the towers betterI cant wait to get it all back together, probably 2-3 weeks to go before I can drive it.
Next weekend hopefully I'll put the new SCAT crank & RAM conversion clutch in then set the engine back into the car.
05-07-2007, 01:09 AM
#12
Race Director
Hey Buddy,
WOW,those looks awesome! Im glad to hear your doing this and not taking chances with the thin stock towers.Keep us posted with them new pics coming,I look forward to seeing it!
Hope youre all doing well!
WOW,those looks awesome! Im glad to hear your doing this and not taking chances with the thin stock towers.Keep us posted with them new pics coming,I look forward to seeing it!
Hope youre all doing well!
05-07-2007, 08:06 AM
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
rather be safe than sorry.
05-07-2007, 08:05 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
Coilover Conversion
LD85,
Nice looking job on the shock tower modification. We did this a couple of months ago on my 1984 and getting the proper alignment was a bit tricky. One side benefit is that you can lower the front of the car very easily and very quickly.
Sam
Nice looking job on the shock tower modification. We did this a couple of months ago on my 1984 and getting the proper alignment was a bit tricky. One side benefit is that you can lower the front of the car very easily and very quickly.
Sam
05-07-2007, 08:53 PM
#15
Race Director
Thread Starter
hey sam, thanks for the info, I'll make sure to look at this closely
05-11-2007, 09:16 PM
#16
Race Director
Thread Starter
making progress, I decided to put new ball joints in,, what a PITA,,also decided to use Rubber undercoat for the wheel wells and finally, I bougth new SS brake lines.
Should have both wheel wells completed by Saturday eve, brakes bled etc,, then I picked up the crank and PP and FW today,
Should have both wheel wells completed by Saturday eve, brakes bled etc,, then I picked up the crank and PP and FW today,
05-12-2007, 10:46 AM
#18
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks Bernie, its been a slow go but here it is,,, I wont know how the ride wil lturn out until the engine is back in. Also, I only put new lower Ball joints in and replaced the upper BJ boots.
Last edited by LD85; 05-12-2007 at 10:53 AM.
