which low temp fan switch to get
#1
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which low temp fan switch to get
hello there,
im just wandering which low temp fan switch kit to buy please for a modded L98 engine running a 160 degree emp/robert shaw balanced moded thermostat?
here is the following that corvette central sell,
200 degrees on/ off @ 185 degrees
195 degrees on/off @ 180 degrees
190 degrees on/ off @ 175 degrees
185 degrees on/ off @ 170 degrees
any ideas or help please?
thank you
regards
emo-vet
im just wandering which low temp fan switch kit to buy please for a modded L98 engine running a 160 degree emp/robert shaw balanced moded thermostat?
here is the following that corvette central sell,
200 degrees on/ off @ 185 degrees
195 degrees on/off @ 180 degrees
190 degrees on/ off @ 175 degrees
185 degrees on/ off @ 170 degrees
any ideas or help please?
thank you
regards
emo-vet
Last edited by emo-vet; 06-14-2007 at 09:31 AM.
#2
I use the on at 195 off at 180 version myself.. but I also use a 180 TS.
According to the temp gauge, mine turns on at 190 - 192 and off at 178 - 180
The fan rarely turns on.. sitting in traffic with the AC on will get the temps up to the 200 - 205 range, but since cleaning the radiator cavity, installing the 180 TS and the 195/180 kit the main fan has never even come on (at 228). 75 mph cruise on the highway has oil and water temps right in the 175 - 185 range.
What I love about the kit is that if you have the auxilliary fan option with the sensor on the drivers cylinder head, all you need to do is replace the sensor and plug the existing harness and plug into the sensor.. no splicing in to anything, no fiddling with relays.. just plug and play..couldn't be easier.
According to the temp gauge, mine turns on at 190 - 192 and off at 178 - 180
The fan rarely turns on.. sitting in traffic with the AC on will get the temps up to the 200 - 205 range, but since cleaning the radiator cavity, installing the 180 TS and the 195/180 kit the main fan has never even come on (at 228). 75 mph cruise on the highway has oil and water temps right in the 175 - 185 range.
What I love about the kit is that if you have the auxilliary fan option with the sensor on the drivers cylinder head, all you need to do is replace the sensor and plug the existing harness and plug into the sensor.. no splicing in to anything, no fiddling with relays.. just plug and play..couldn't be easier.
#3
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On my 1989 I used the 200*- 185* switch/sensor. I used it only on my aux fan and left the main fan ECM controlled. Works great. I didn't want both fans running too much, works in stages with the main fan on at 228*, however it never comes on unless I turn on the air.
#4
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A 160° thermostat is way too cool for an L98. First, it will take longer than necessary to warm up. Then, IF you can get it to run anywhere near that cool, it is hard in the engine and uneconomical. I use a 180° stat with a fan on at 205° and off at 195°. The fan rarely runs and I don't like how cool (178° - 185°) it runs on the highway. *I* should go back to the 195° thermostat.
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#5
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CFI-EFI do you have the stock radiator?
#7
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Does anyone know where I can get switches like this with higher temps? I 've got the main fan on at 205 and off at 195 in my chip and would like to keep the same system as the factory has just cooler, so I'd like to have my boost fan on at around 215 and off at 200.
#8
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Call around locally maybe you can find something. That's not much spread in temps however. I have my aux fan coming on first which is real simple on a 1989.
#9
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I have a 200 on 185 off from mid america and my stock switch. But its too hot here to keep 185 without the fans running damn near all the time. For now I guess I can put in the stock switch, but the fan won't ever come on...
#10
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
CFI-EFI do you have the stock radiator?
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#11
A 160° thermostat is way too cool for an L98. First, it will take longer than necessary to warm up. Then, IF you can get it to run anywhere near that cool, it is hard in the engine and uneconomical. I use a 180° stat with a fan on at 205° and off at 195°. The fan rarely runs and I don't like how cool (178° - 185°) it runs on the highway. *I* should go back to the 195° thermostat.
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IMO, theres nothing wrong with operating an L98, or most other engines, at 160.
my experience on several late model computer controlled vehicles, indicates no problems from their use. no signs of abnormal wear, no significant loss of fuel economy, driveability, and certainly no problems with going into closed loop operation...
and heater output during winter months is still good...
#12
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It is one thing to disagree with an opinion, but the results are in. My statements are backed by proved facts. They are not just an opinion. Just because your car hasn't fallen apart, doesn't mean that you are doing it any good. It amazes me that so many of the "nothing is too good for my baby" crowd that fuels low compression engines with 93 octane gasoline, and lavishes other extravagances, and wastes of money on their cars are so misinformed that they abuse their car by insisting on running it at a temp that is too cool for it's own good. This subject has been covered here on the forum ad nausuim. Do a search and read up on the subject. Then, if with an informed mind, you decide the abuse of your car is worth it for some reason, continue as you have been.
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#14
hello there,
im just wandering which low temp fan switch kit to buy please for a modded L98 engine running a 160 degree emp/robert shaw balanced moded thermostat?
here is the following that corvette central sell,
200 degrees on/ off @ 185 degrees
195 degrees on/off @ 180 degrees
190 degrees on/ off @ 175 degrees
185 degrees on/ off @ 170 degrees
any ideas or help please?
thank you
regards
emo-vet
im just wandering which low temp fan switch kit to buy please for a modded L98 engine running a 160 degree emp/robert shaw balanced moded thermostat?
here is the following that corvette central sell,
200 degrees on/ off @ 185 degrees
195 degrees on/off @ 180 degrees
190 degrees on/ off @ 175 degrees
185 degrees on/ off @ 170 degrees
any ideas or help please?
thank you
regards
emo-vet
install the probe on lower passenger side of the radiator, and tap into the factory fan relay ground circuit...
you will have a much broader range of control, plus, with the probe mounted on the pass. side of the radiator, you can keep coolant temps down to around the themostats operating temps...
#15
Melting Slicks
In the past, I've had good results with a 200F on/180F off switch for the aux fan on my 88 with a 160 stat.
Later on, I wired my main fan and aux fan relay grounds in parallel so that both fans would run either via the switch or ecm control.
To avoid having the fan run constantly, I think the higher temp switch that you listed would be desireable 200 on/185 off.
These days I'm a fan of ecm programming so now I let the ecm control both fans (fan switch is unplugged).
I'm running unique programming which runs both fans below 6 mph based on the ac on fan settings currenty 175F on and 170F off.
Above 6 mph, the AC off settings are used which I have set to 205 F on and 200 F off. This permits the fans to turn off while moving above 6 mph after a 2 second delay as long as the coolant temp is below 200F.
If the coolant temp exceeds 205F when moving the fans are turned on again which prevents excessive temperatures.
I'm also running a modified duty cylce: 80% duty cycle at 180F, 90% at 200F and 100% for 220F and above.
I'm pretty happy with these settings, keeps the car cool at stand still and efficient running at higher speeds with minimal fan activity. I rarely see temps below 170F (even in 40F weather) or above 200F on 90F degree days.
If I need any extra cooling, at speed, turning the A/C on at coolant temps above 175F will activate both fans. A 100% duty cycle is employed for AC on with AC pressure high and speeds below 35 mph similar to the factory programming.
ECM programming is the best way to go, but the low temp switches can work well also. Many also install a manual switch for complete control.
I find it strange that your concerned with coolant temps in the winter time, though. Have a Speight's for me, or a Brewski if you ever go to the south near Wanaka.
Later on, I wired my main fan and aux fan relay grounds in parallel so that both fans would run either via the switch or ecm control.
To avoid having the fan run constantly, I think the higher temp switch that you listed would be desireable 200 on/185 off.
These days I'm a fan of ecm programming so now I let the ecm control both fans (fan switch is unplugged).
I'm running unique programming which runs both fans below 6 mph based on the ac on fan settings currenty 175F on and 170F off.
Above 6 mph, the AC off settings are used which I have set to 205 F on and 200 F off. This permits the fans to turn off while moving above 6 mph after a 2 second delay as long as the coolant temp is below 200F.
If the coolant temp exceeds 205F when moving the fans are turned on again which prevents excessive temperatures.
I'm also running a modified duty cylce: 80% duty cycle at 180F, 90% at 200F and 100% for 220F and above.
I'm pretty happy with these settings, keeps the car cool at stand still and efficient running at higher speeds with minimal fan activity. I rarely see temps below 170F (even in 40F weather) or above 200F on 90F degree days.
If I need any extra cooling, at speed, turning the A/C on at coolant temps above 175F will activate both fans. A 100% duty cycle is employed for AC on with AC pressure high and speeds below 35 mph similar to the factory programming.
ECM programming is the best way to go, but the low temp switches can work well also. Many also install a manual switch for complete control.
I find it strange that your concerned with coolant temps in the winter time, though. Have a Speight's for me, or a Brewski if you ever go to the south near Wanaka.
Last edited by tequilaboy; 06-15-2007 at 12:34 PM.
#16
It is one thing to disagree with an opinion, but the results are in. My statements are backed by proved facts. They are not just an opinion. Just because your car hasn't fallen apart, doesn't mean that you are doing it any good. It amazes me that so many of the "nothing is too good for my baby" crowd that fuels low compression engines with 93 octane gasoline, and lavishes other extravagances, and wastes of money on their cars are so misinformed that they abuse their car by insisting on running it at a temp that is too cool for it's own good. This subject has been covered here on the forum ad nausuim. Do a search and read up on the subject. Then, if with an informed mind, you decide the abuse of your car is worth it for some reason, continue as you have been.
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proved by facts huh? well, lets hear or see them......
and dont repost that silly wear vs. temp chart, that came from God only knows where, and when, and by who, under what conditions....
if i see that thing posted again, as somebody`s "proof", i`m gonna puke...
i have a suspicion that the people who originally did that test, if it ever actually occured, probably died of old age, over 30 years ago....
i have owned several cars that have racked up well over 100,000 miles with 160 stats, (a couple WAY over 100K) with compression thats still good, only to tear them down later for modifications, or repairs that are clearly not related to cool operating temps, only to find cyl. bores,pistons, rings, ect., still in exellent condition....
how about you???
how many engines have you operated at 160 for many years, and many miles have personally inpected. hmm???
Last edited by BigLee; 06-15-2007 at 11:49 AM.
#17
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Hi CFI-EFI, Just wanted you to know the correct spelling is Ad nauseam. It is a Latin term used to describe something that has been continuing "to the point of nausea." For example "This topic has been discussed ad nauseam"; it has been discoursed extensively and everyone is tired of it. Maybe you should take your own advise.
Last edited by Kool88vette; 06-15-2007 at 11:47 AM.
#18
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Originally Posted by BigLee
how about you???
how engines have you operated at 160 for many years, and many miles have personally inpected. hmm???
how engines have you operated at 160 for many years, and many miles have personally inpected. hmm???
The point has been made and proved. I have nothing to gain by trying to convince you. I have told you where to find the info. If you are content in your ignorance or are too lazy to become informed, it does ME no harm. I am only trying to help fellow forum members by giving good, solid, truthful information. I have provided you with one of the sources of information. If you prefer to ignore it, you are the only loser.
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#19
I'm smarter than that. I can't say that I always was, but some just catch on sooner than others. Those that don't learn from history are destined to repeat it. One of the engine wear tests you will find during your research, was done by Continental Engine, (once, if not still) the largest manufacturer of internal combustion engines.
The point has been made and proved. I have nothing to gain by trying to convince you. I have told you where to find the info. If you are content in your ignorance or are too lazy to become informed, it does ME no harm. I am only trying to help fellow forum members by giving good, solid, truthful information. I have provided you with one of the sources of information. If you prefer to ignore it, you are the only loser.
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The point has been made and proved. I have nothing to gain by trying to convince you. I have told you where to find the info. If you are content in your ignorance or are too lazy to become informed, it does ME no harm. I am only trying to help fellow forum members by giving good, solid, truthful information. I have provided you with one of the sources of information. If you prefer to ignore it, you are the only loser.
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you provided NOTHING....no solid evidence, no experience with cool engines. nothing except a bunch heresay, and urban myths, as your "proof"...
when you have operated, and torn down and inspected a few engines that have been operated at low coolant temps for long periods, as i have, come back and talk to me then....
until then....
#20
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Originally Posted by Kool88vette
Hi CFI-EFI, Just wanted you to know the correct spelling is Ad nauseam. It is a Latin term used to describe something that has been continuing "to the point of nausea." For example "This topic has been discussed ad nauseam"; it has been discoursed extensively and everyone is tired of it. Maybe you should take your own advise.
NOW! Why do you bust into a thread with not ONE word on subject??? Thank you for the spelling lesson. NOT!!!
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