BerniesVette

Thanks for the link!
Bernie

C4forlife

I have a 86E but have a 96 LT1 now so which year brace should I order?

larryfs

I can't tell the difference, brace in or out.

Slalom4me

Yes, when spring and/or sway bar rates are increased.

I am interested in hearing an explanation about the
part the Camber-Brace plays in causing understeer.

.

CentralCoaster

I have an RD brace on my car, but am still skeptical of any advantage it gives.

5abivt

I have the RD brace. I bught another when i put a mezzier pump on. I will NOT ever drive a c4 without one of these on. c4s are wiggly.. and the camber brace tightens up the steering. especially noticeable with the short turn steering rack I have on my 93. Improving the 'feel' is significant to me as it almost feels like I'm driving a different car.

if you don't know what the 'shake' and wiggle is then go drive a bmw.

CentralCoaster

I hammer on my car on bumpy roads with the targa top in back.


But then again, I like overcooked spaghetti too.

ToniH

If you read my reply more carefully, I say: "stiffening front end causes understeer". I was explaining him that what he asked isn't a problem as if something happens it is more likely to happen other way around.

But, to answer your question anyway: flexing front frame is acting effectively as a spring. So, stiffening the front frame (what CB was designed for) has a similar type of effect than installing stiffer front spring or in lesser amount a thicker sway bar. Therefore it is more likely to cause understeer than oversteer. This is very likely not detectable in a street car as there is tons of other things causing both (worn tyres, bad shock/shocks, bad suspension tuning, changing road conditons etc) but in any case he doesn't need to worry camber brace causing oversteer.

PS. remember that 99.9% of the cars installing CB are not pro race cars which are tuned to prevailing road and temp conditions every time before they start their engines. They just have bits bolted on them and then driven. So, every bit is going to change something a bit to some direction. With pro race cars they want to eliminate frame flex so they can concentrate tuning the actual suspension. In these conditions they might end up with more font end grip if they are successful. Does not work that perfectly with road cars running in public roads with parts in differing stages of their life span and virtually no tuning.

Aardwolf

I don't have any trouble driving mine and I do not want any extra weight or more understeer at the track. So for me I don't see any advantage to it. There is so much understeer stock.

If someone has one close by I'll track the car with and without one to test it.

5abivt

Ask ferrari, porsche or any other exotic car manufacturer if having a stiff chassis is a good thing. Having your control arm upper mounts flop back and forth over bumps and flexing through turns might not be measurable in seconds as horsepower but the advantages are definitely there. How about like allowing the suspension to work 'properly' and without flex.

BerniesVette

I can't speak for the C4, but the improvement my C3 had after installing the camber bar was gigantic! If anything there was a bit more oversteer; but that could be my perception based on the better feel I had and the fact that the steering was more responsive. I definately want to try it on my C4 to see if there is as much noticeable difference.
Bernie

ToniH

Don't get me wrong. I am not saying that CB will induce you a lots of understeer. It will stiffen up the front frame, which is a good thing, and then you can tune your suspension out of the understeer condition to more neutral feel.

teufelhund

I talked to dave about that because I was going to buy a later brace for my 86E that was a used one. The newer brace will work in the older vetter because they never changed the frame of the vette. You will just have a bump in your brace that you don't need.

He just happened to have a slightly damaged (paint chipped) X brace that a guy sent back because of the chip that he offered me at a REALLY low price. So I snatched that up. Now I can't find a 17/32" drill bit to install it to save me ....

ToniH

Well the solution is to go Metric like the rest of your car. That is about 13.5 in millimetres. So buy a 13.5mm (direct fit) or 14mm (a quite common metric bolt size) drill bit and make it fit!

tequilaboy

Do you need to drill anything???

Or are you just using the drill bit to push the bolt through without dropping shims?

If that is the case, you can use just about any long bolt that will slip through to hold the shims in place while getting the brace in position before running the original bolts back through.

teufelhund

It's the crush nut that I'm worried about so just how close is the difference between 17/32 and 13.5MM???

And yes I have do drill some holes to get it to work on the bottom side of my car. If it was a vert then I wouldn't need to drill but since I have a couple there is drilling involved.

Kinkajou

When I need that kind of solutions I use Travers.com, they have a lot of sizes: numeric, standard, metric. High speed, cobal, Ti,etc.

They will have the drill bits you need, remember to use low speed and lots of cutting fluid for a trouble free perforation.

ToniH

The difference is 0.0002756 inches.

1" = 25.4mm.

Slalom4me

teufelhund has gone off-topic.

Translation
- X brace ==> R-D Cross-Frame
- crush nut => Nutsert

The Cross-Frame is an x-shaped brace fabricated from rectangular
tubing that mounts under the car. Convertibles came with an OEM
version made from stamped strip.

When adding a C-F to a coupe, four holes need to be drilled for the
two rear mounting points. The hole diameter needs to be accurate
because Nutserts go in them and must fit snugly in order to grip so
they can self-rivet into place. If the hole is too large, installing the
Nutsert can become a bit of a headache.

.

conv90

...too late...
Yes I mean cicch95..