C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Golen 383 - 4 bolt splayed caps, forged SRP Pistons and cylinder surface

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Old 09-04-2007, 01:47 AM
  #41  
5abivt
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Originally Posted by resipsa
I stored a freshly bored and honed engine block in my garage for two years on an engine stand in a plastic bag with WD-40 on the cylinder walls and they never rusted like that. Improper shipping prep, main bearing cap nuts not fully engaged with the studs, and the wrong mains and coatings. Who knows what else is wrong with that motor (e.g., bearing clearances, cam specs, rod clearance, etc). Golen should take that motor back without question. If Golen refuses to cure these defects, I personally will never do business with or recommend them (I know plenty of potential customers). Hopefully, they will live up to their good reputation and insist on replacing that motor for you with one that has the correct parts, is not rusted, and that looks like it was bolted together correctly. Good luck.
Old 09-04-2007, 06:07 AM
  #42  
93 ragtop
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As the old saying goes, (Lets give the Devil his due's) In all fairness to Chad, this post was started on Saturday, in a weekend of a holiday, so it may take a little time for Chad to answer.
This does not appear to be the norm that Golen operates by.
I must admit that my experience with them has been the purchase part only. I still have not installed the motor yet, but never the less, I would like to share it with you.

When I ordered mine, I spoke to Chad about wanting a 383 LT1 blower short block, which does not include the cam. Chad went into detail about the main caps not being splayed, that the dipstick would not work with them. I went with the billet 4 bolt caps instead.
I told him I was interested in the custom cam he uses in his complete blower motor, and we discussed this. Chad offered to give me the grind no. so I could order direct from Comp. Cams if I would like. I choose to get the cam from him, as he had them on the shelf, and he could install it in the block before shipping.
Chad told me it would take 4-5 weeks to build. He called me 25 days latter and wanted to go over the build sheet again to verify it was the way I ordered it. It was.
He shipped it out, and I received it exactly 1 month from the day I ordered it.
Chad called to verify I received the motor and to assure me, he was there when I started installation. He gave me felpro gasket no.'s to purchase for assembly.
I told him, it was going to be awhile before assembly started, and he assured me, if it was a year latter, he was there to answer any questions or problems that may come up. Chad even told me to call prior to actual start up to go over everything again, just to be sure everything was in order.
My experience so far, has been, that Chad is committed to giving quality service.
I hope this experience of yours turns out to be a positive one as well.
Old 09-04-2007, 08:21 AM
  #43  
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Chad is a grade A guy. I met him in person twice, to drop off parts and pick up my motor. He walked me through everything and explained everything to me as well as came in early and on a Saturday just to accomodate me. He usually does not work Saturdays and being a Holiday weekend, he was probably off yesterday.

Give him a call as that will probably get you a quicker response. He personally answers every call and email and you have to remember, he is only one person, while there are thousands calling and emailing him.

I'm running a 396LT1 he built for me and I can only say good things about him.
Old 09-04-2007, 11:20 PM
  #44  
crossfire7
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There is no excuse for a reputable company slapping together a turd motor. Where is their quality control?

I WAS going to go with them for a new 383, but after seeing this, FORGET IT !!

Not worth fighting over. They can keep their junk. You are only as good as your last motor.
Old 09-05-2007, 02:32 AM
  #45  
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Old 09-05-2007, 03:06 AM
  #46  
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This is gonna be good. Im interested to see how it plays out, as I've considered a golen engine and only heard great things till now....

Old 09-05-2007, 06:52 AM
  #47  
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I'm just home from work and I have an e-mail from Golen. I've sent a link to this thread, too. Here is what he says:

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner I was away for the long weekend.

Looked at your order and you are 100% right I did not have the splayed caps on there but did charge you for it, this is my mistake. I do not make many but I screwed this up big time and for that I am truely sorry.

As for the pistons Mahle did not have the 16cc dish available at the time so we went with equal or what I feel is a stronger SRP/JE piston and then had the coating done to that. I will have to check on our PO and invoice to see what was ordered and paid for on the coatings. I should have sent you an email informing you about the pistons and Mahle's lack of stock at the time.

As for the surface rust you can take some Scotch Brite and some WD-40 or any other lube and lightly clean it out, this staining will not hurt anything. We bag these engines really good but sometimes the moisture will get in there and do that.

Please let me know how you would like to resolve these mistakes and I will take the steps to correct them for you as quick as I can.

Sorry for the trouble.

Chad Golen

And the second answer:

I do have a very good rep to protect as we can both see from this forum. I build about 300 performance engines per a year and know that my customers are the most important part of my company. I feel extremely bad for mixing your order up and I know how you feel because I had that happen to me a few years ago on a racing transmission that I bought for my car. Unfortunately for me the transmission company screwed me over for a bunch of money and it
felt terrible.

I would like nothing more than to do what it takes to keep you happy and make this right, but please do not take advantage of me it was a mistake and I will make good on it as long as it is fair.

Looking forward to your response.

Thanks
Chad Golen
Old 09-05-2007, 08:08 AM
  #48  
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Personally, I think you should have waited untill he answered you before making this thread. Yes in the end it goes to show that Chad is a stand up guy, but for the people that believe everything they read on the internet and don't get this far into the thread, will go out and tell everyone how Golen sucks.
Old 09-05-2007, 08:18 AM
  #49  
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I agree. Everyone stumbles from time to time. Especially with high performance stuff. Regardless, I hope it works out well in the end. I suspect it will
Old 09-05-2007, 08:52 AM
  #50  
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In retrospect, I suppose the best way to handle this was for Eike to post his questions and fact checking without mentioning the builder until he had been in contact with Chad. But I can understand how upset he would be. Way to go, Chad!
Old 09-05-2007, 10:00 AM
  #51  
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Chad is a stand up guy. Way to go. He sounds genuinely concerned about your needs as a customer, and of the rep he has built up.

I am sure this will be fixed.
Old 09-05-2007, 11:22 AM
  #52  
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The SRP/JE pistons are better. They are about $580 for the set, made of low expansion alloy which means you can run tighter side clearance, and the rings sit way lower out of the fire. I run those exact same pistons.

As far as the splayed block goes, you don't need it. The 4 bolt block will handle a TON of boost, trust me. Been there Just get a credit from Chad and be on your way.

You need the block off plate as suggested, which was on *all* EFI v8's since the early 80s. The Vortec motors didn't have blockoff plates but had a cast that had to be punched out if you wanted to use a mechanical fuel pump. Also as suggested, you need the seal carrier.

I did a block a year ago with ARP studs that looked the same way. I called ARP on it, and spoke to the tech guys. They told me it was fine. I even counted the turns. A year prior I did a block and received the wrong size outer studs. ARP says the nut should go on and reveal at least 1-2 threads. Yours look fine though.


-- Joe
Old 09-05-2007, 12:07 PM
  #53  
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I would also be pretty upset if I had spent that kind of money on an engine that wasn't 100%. A customer should be contacted when any changes to an order are being made. At least an appropriate responce was sent along with an offer to make things right.




Potential Future Golen Customer
Old 09-06-2007, 10:43 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by rickreeves1


I would also be pretty upset if I had spent that kind of money on an engine that wasn't 100%. A customer should be contacted when any changes to an order are being made. At least an appropriate responce was sent along with an offer to make things right.



I think they tried to sneak one under the radar here.
There is absolutely Zero excuse for any of this.
Old 09-06-2007, 10:49 PM
  #55  
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Substituting parts/blocks is common in that industry....Not saying I wouldnt be displeased but Golens' response sounded geuine and sincere and is looking for an amicable solution as well, cant fault him for that...Try finding that with most anyone in the industry these days, wont happen.
That will be good for you and Golens future biz, sounds like this one will have a happy ending.

Old 09-06-2007, 10:53 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by anesthes
I did a block a year ago with ARP studs that looked the same way. I called ARP on it, and spoke to the tech guys. They told me it was fine. I even counted the turns. A year prior I did a block and received the wrong size outer studs. ARP says the nut should go on and reveal at least 1-2 threads. Yours look fine though.
-- Joe
Look at that outer stud on the #3 main cap, I'd be afraid that nut would come off at some point. Just looks sloppily done to me.
Old 09-06-2007, 11:46 PM
  #57  
aboatguy
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Originally Posted by anesthes

I did a block a year ago with ARP studs that looked the same way. I called ARP on it, and spoke to the tech guys. They told me it was fine. I even counted the turns. A year prior I did a block and received the wrong size outer studs. ARP says the nut should go on and reveal at least 1-2 threads. Yours look fine though.


-- Joe
Looking at the pics it looks like there is not even a one thread reveal on some of the nuts and on at least one the stud does not exit the nut.

Seems like someone had an off day which happens in just about every business; however the difference between good businesses and bad ones is whether they stand behind their product or not.

In this case it looks like Chad is a stand-up guy that wants to make it right.

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Old 09-07-2007, 06:37 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
Looking at the pics it looks like there is not even a one thread reveal on some of the nuts and on at least one the stud does not exit the nut.

Seems like someone had an off day which happens in just about every business; however the difference between good businesses and bad ones is whether they stand behind their product or not.

In this case it looks like Chad is a stand-up guy that wants to make it right.
When my browser opened the thread, I did NOT see the first pic, I saw ths one:

http://www.vette91.de/Golen383/KW_Nr01.jpg

The first one must of scrolled off.

The outer studs are wrong. You need to call ARP and get the longer ones. (or have Golen call arp). I 100% guarantee the studs are wrong on the outers. Like I said, been there before. ARP told me there is two different lengths.

I'm sorry about saying it looked OK earlier, I didn't see the top PIC and they look fine in the second pic. My mistake.
-- Joe
Old 09-07-2007, 08:03 AM
  #59  
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In addition to my local mech I asked Golen about the studs, too.
Both said I'm fine using them if I adjust the studs just stick out of the top and torque the nuts down.

So I screwed the studs out to check their lenght. The outer studs are 2 3/4" and the inner studs are 4 1/4".
Surprisingly I could screw out 4 of the 6 outer studs using just 2 fingers against the need of a hex-wrench getting the remaining 2 studs out of the block. I torqued the nuts down to 75 and everything looks right to me.

[...] You can take and adjust the main studs so that when you tighten the nuts they will be flush or the stud just sticks out of the top, then torque the nuts to 75 ft lbs. Make sure that you torque to 75 ft lbs because that is what we torque it to when we do the machine work on the main line.

All of the coatings that we have done are top of the line and will work
great for what you are doing. I am still waiting for the answer on the
coatings and why it was not the gold one. I really like the quality of the
SRP piston but again should have informed you that the Mahle were not
available.[...]
Golen will paypal me the $ I paid for the splayed caps, btw.

Last edited by Eike; 09-07-2007 at 09:19 AM.
Old 12-10-2014, 11:05 AM
  #60  
Eike
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Unfortunately I have to reply this old thread ...

I did not install the 383 until 2014 as I had to manage other stuff according to priority.

After I installed the engine, I got the car to a workshop owning a dyno and which beside mechanical work on Corvette is specialized in scan and tune Corvette engines. I got it there by trailer because I did not want to drive the car without a tune.

The engine did run but not very well. Soon some water at cylinder 1 was detected. They re-installed the intake as we thought there must be a bad gasket or thread-sealant is missing somewhere.

The engine did run better after 15 minutes of idle. So it was shut off after a while. The next day they checked the cylinders by fiberscope again resulting in tons of water inside cylinder 1

So we decided to pull intake and heads ... today I got the latest news:

- cylinder 1 got cracked by about 2 inch
- the material got discoloured by 5mm each side of the crack
- another area of cylinder 1 does look like it got welded and ground

The owner of the shop told me it does look like a botched repair


So at this time, I would not recommend Golen Engine Service to anyone. I feel completely ripped off.

The engine will be pulled and disassembled after christmas. Of course I will take pictures and perform some analysis of the cracked area and the strange looking area ...

Last edited by Eike; 12-10-2014 at 11:14 AM.


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