It's the washers!!
05-31-2009, 12:47 PM
#81
Safety Car
If it were me, depending on the mileage, I would do the U-joints also. (Spicer sealed) I'd hate to get everything back together and still have the clicking or find out after pulling it apart they are shot. Mines a daily drive though so it may not be an issue for you.
Well like I said I have checked it out every things is tight but i will go over it again once i get in there I know U-joints are cheap and good insurance to replace if they are questionable. Thanks
Last edited by floridamale; 05-31-2009 at 12:49 PM.
05-31-2009, 01:02 PM
#82
Melting Slicks
I agree. The word is yoke, not yolk.
You made the problem more difficult than it had to be
You dont have to remove the hub
A torx with an extension will slide in from behind to remove the 3 bearing bolts
This is how I did it (also how it was written up here just enable archived threads and if you have the June issue of Corvette Magazine look in the letters section for th e same thing)
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove spindle nut (the big one in the middle) I found it easiest to do this with the parking brake on
3. Remove caliper and rotor
4. Remove 3 torx bolts from behind that hold the bearing assy on(I used a 6 in extension)
5 when you remove the bearing there it is. I put a little synthetic axle grease on so it would last longer and also lubed up the spline
No need to remove springs or the whole hub assy
Just make sure you put the flared flange facing the correct way (to the inside I believe)
You dont have to remove the hub
A torx with an extension will slide in from behind to remove the 3 bearing bolts
This is how I did it (also how it was written up here just enable archived threads and if you have the June issue of Corvette Magazine look in the letters section for th e same thing)
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove spindle nut (the big one in the middle) I found it easiest to do this with the parking brake on
3. Remove caliper and rotor
4. Remove 3 torx bolts from behind that hold the bearing assy on(I used a 6 in extension)
5 when you remove the bearing there it is. I put a little synthetic axle grease on so it would last longer and also lubed up the spline
No need to remove springs or the whole hub assy
Just make sure you put the flared flange facing the correct way (to the inside I believe)
06-08-2009, 01:12 AM
#83
Safety Car
can i use antisieze on the splines and washer or should I leave the washer dry and let the teflon do it's thing and use regular ( I'm cheap) axle grease for the splines after I wire brush and wd 40 them clean
06-08-2009, 06:43 AM
#84
Safety Car
BTW part # is 14076924 and is about $7 from a dealer
Cheapest part I ever got from a stealership
The torx is a T55 and I used a 3/8 drive with a 6 in extension from behind
There are 3 of them I used a 3/8 breaker bar about 18in long to loosen them
The first one was a 45 min job the second (I did both) was about 20 min
Cheapest part I ever got from a stealership
The torx is a T55 and I used a 3/8 drive with a 6 in extension from behind
There are 3 of them I used a 3/8 breaker bar about 18in long to loosen them
The first one was a 45 min job the second (I did both) was about 20 min
I was going to do this on my 87 over the weekend are you sure the torx is a T55? I was not able to get that size to fit to large and the T50 I have was to small. Can some one confirm the size. Thanks
09-01-2010, 09:02 PM
#85
Burning Brakes
T55 it is. I did both rears this spring, and no washers. Now I'm going to break out that T55 and a couple of extensions and take it all apart to put the washers on. Like the other guy said - why didn't they include the washers in the hub assembly?? At $200+ per side they couldn't afford it?
10-05-2010, 09:34 PM
#86
Burning Brakes
Clicking Hub and Chevrolet washers
It worked for me. I put new hubs in months ago, before reading this thread, and there weren't no washers in there then, so I didn't put any in. Then I heard the clicking noise. $8.00 per washer and a few hours of labor later, I have quiet hubs.
Thanks to all who posted to this thread. This has cut by 50% the extraneous noises that my 93 convertible makes.
Thanks to all who posted to this thread. This has cut by 50% the extraneous noises that my 93 convertible makes.
07-05-2011, 02:33 PM
#87
Racer
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Just want to thank everyone who participated in this thread in the past. I was having the same clicking noise from my left rear (the car's left reat that is), saw this thread, ordered the washers and had them installed this morning at Loud Pedal Motorsports in Tempe, AZ. In the process of the installation they found that my car was missing the washers altogether on both sides. Whoever installed my U-joints on both sides apparently forgot to install the washers. In any event, the washers solved the problem completely and for very little cost. Thanks again!
06-19-2013, 09:15 AM
#92
Life Starts at 120 mph
Member Since: Jun 2012
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Quickcat and all fellow CF member,
Great thread, first class, best information. I too have this click noise. This sounds like my winter project.
1. collect correct parts, supplies
2. get knowledgeable (Thanks Guys)
Quickcat, Thanks Again
Great thread, first class, best information.
I too have this click noise. This sounds like my winter project.1. collect correct parts, supplies
2. get knowledgeable (Thanks Guys)
Quickcat, Thanks Again
06-23-2013, 04:02 PM
#93
Instructor
I know this is an old thread, all apologies. Has anyone done this job?
I am in the middle of it, as I need to install new rotors anyway and figured I may as well cure my clicking.
I have the 36mm hub bolt off as well as 1 of the 3 T55 Torx bolts. Is there a way to turn the axle so that I can access the other 2 torx bolts? Must both rear tires be in the air?
If I could turn the spindle, I could access all 3 torx, if I can't I think I am gong to put it all back together and live with the click~
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
I am in the middle of it, as I need to install new rotors anyway and figured I may as well cure my clicking.
I have the 36mm hub bolt off as well as 1 of the 3 T55 Torx bolts. Is there a way to turn the axle so that I can access the other 2 torx bolts? Must both rear tires be in the air?
If I could turn the spindle, I could access all 3 torx, if I can't I think I am gong to put it all back together and live with the click~
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
06-25-2013, 08:06 AM
#94
Life Starts at 120 mph
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Jeff,
Must both rear tires be in the air?
I do bleive you have to have both wheels up inorder to rotate the axle and remove the T-bolts. I don't know your capabilities, but you might lift both, jack stand, rotate to expose the next bolt, then set the park brake tight. One CF member stated he did it wuing the park brake. GLW install.
Boxcar
Must both rear tires be in the air?
I do bleive you have to have both wheels up inorder to rotate the axle and remove the T-bolts. I don't know your capabilities, but you might lift both, jack stand, rotate to expose the next bolt, then set the park brake tight. One CF member stated he did it wuing the park brake. GLW install.
Boxcar
06-25-2013, 10:31 AM
#95
Instructor
Jeff,
Must both rear tires be in the air?
I do bleive you have to have both wheels up inorder to rotate the axle and remove the T-bolts. I don't know your capabilities, but you might lift both, jack stand, rotate to expose the next bolt, then set the park brake tight. One CF member stated he did it wuing the park brake. GLW install.
Boxcar
Must both rear tires be in the air?
I do bleive you have to have both wheels up inorder to rotate the axle and remove the T-bolts. I don't know your capabilities, but you might lift both, jack stand, rotate to expose the next bolt, then set the park brake tight. One CF member stated he did it wuing the park brake. GLW install.
Boxcar
Things I discovered while doing this job that may be helpful.
Impact Wrenches are worth their weight in gold. I purchased an electric Kobalt impact wrench from Lowes for $159 and I don't know how I could have done this job without it. It made short work of the 36mm hub nut.
My washer actually looked ok, I replaced it anyway and the dreaded clicking is gone! So happy about that.
You really don't have to take anything off other than the rotor and the caliper. I didn't drop anything else. There were times while taking the 3 torx bolts out that I could only move the rachet 1" either way, making it a slow process but I stuck with it and they eventually came out.
Don't use a 1/2" extension as it is too large and blocks your view of the torx head, 3/8" is fine.
A 6" 3/8 extension was just about perfect. 5" was too short, 10" was too long.
I only did one side, and it cured the clicking. I hope the other side doesn't start clicking as I don't want to do this job again.
Thanks to all those who posted before me. I know this thread is old but information is timeless, so thanks again!
Jeff
04-07-2014, 12:19 PM
#96
Race Director
Here I am in April 2014. I was coming home from the AutoFair at Charlotte and I started hearing the clicking noise. I thought it was part of the brake system or something was coming apart. Maybe a u-joint letting loose. I pulled over and found nothing unusual. So, I drove home. The noise only seemed to happened when I'd start up from a stop light and slow turns to the left. I did a lot of auto-cross driving several years ago and had to replace the rear bearings. I remember the washer but reused the ones in there. So, I jacked up the rear and took off the driver's side wheel and started my investigation. I couldn't find anything wrong, except a light click when turning the rotor. It felt like it was from inside the wheel bearing, but I really couldn't be sure. Now that I've read this thread, I will replace these washers. Whenever I heard this similar sound in my 57 chevy (some forty years ago) it was the u-joints. But I'll do the washers first before replacing 60K miles old u-joints. BTW, there weren't very many C4s at the auto fair.
04-12-2014, 02:55 PM
#97
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Rear end sounds (no laugh please)??
Excellent write up - I have a noise coming the rear end of my '96 CE Coupe too, but not sure if this is the problem. It is kind of a knocking soon when I go over a rough road, more knock/low rattle than squeal and not centered like a driveshaft U joint problem. Maybe something else??
04-25-2018, 10:20 PM
#100
Le Mans Master
