It's the washers!!
10-23-2007, 10:37 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
It's the washers!!
All,
I have to say after dealing with my rear end noise (no laughing
) for several months I have to say that those who said the teflon coated washers behind the rear hub bearings fixed my aching clicking sounds. I kinda figured it was the case but I tried working other things first and it cost me time and money.
I ordered mine from the local Chevy dealer and they came in quickly. When I went to put them in I could see that the originals were not even there, and upon examining the shoulder of the axle shaft I could see where it was galling against the bearing. This all despite all the torque that goes on the axle nut.
Final thoughts:
1. Grease and antisieze does not fix it.
2. They are cheap and relatively easy to change
3. Bearings and u-joints are often wrongfully blamed
My special thanks to those who have brought this issue out.
Someplace I have pictures of the procedure if anyone is interested.
I have to say after dealing with my rear end noise (no laughing
) for several months I have to say that those who said the teflon coated washers behind the rear hub bearings fixed my aching clicking sounds. I kinda figured it was the case but I tried working other things first and it cost me time and money.I ordered mine from the local Chevy dealer and they came in quickly. When I went to put them in I could see that the originals were not even there, and upon examining the shoulder of the axle shaft I could see where it was galling against the bearing. This all despite all the torque that goes on the axle nut.
Final thoughts:
1. Grease and antisieze does not fix it.
2. They are cheap and relatively easy to change
3. Bearings and u-joints are often wrongfully blamed
My special thanks to those who have brought this issue out.
Someplace I have pictures of the procedure if anyone is interested.
10-23-2007, 10:43 PM
#2
10-23-2007, 10:51 PM
#3
Tech Contributor
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Do you have the part numbers? I have to assemble a rear setup, and I'm missing one of them, and I might as well put in both new ones. Thanks.
10-23-2007, 11:12 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I will share with all.
First lift the car and support. Be safe out there!
Then disconnect the tie rod and spring. Remove the spindle nut.
Now remove the caps from the inner u-joints. Be sure to remove the spindle nut first and be careful not to let the caps to come off and loose needle bearings all over your garage floor. This will cause you to learn new cuss words.
Remove the bolt that attaches the lower control arm to the spindle and move it out of the way.
Now for the tricky part (relatively so I guess)...
Pull the hub assembly with the half shaft toward you and away from the differential unitl the inner u-joint clears the yolk, then lower it. Then while holding the hub assembly out pull the half shaft inward until it is clear of the hub bearing. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING!! but be firm. Be careful with the brake lines, wires, and cables.
The washer goes against the shoulder of the splined shaft.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
For those who want to do the u-joints while the shaft is out...
I have done this to my car many times now and know it works well. I believe the book has you remove more things to get in there and you may choose to if you wish. It takes me about an hour or less per side but plan on a day if you are not experienced and have to borrow most of the tools.
First lift the car and support. Be safe out there!
Then disconnect the tie rod and spring. Remove the spindle nut.
Now remove the caps from the inner u-joints. Be sure to remove the spindle nut first and be careful not to let the caps to come off and loose needle bearings all over your garage floor. This will cause you to learn new cuss words.
Remove the bolt that attaches the lower control arm to the spindle and move it out of the way.
Now for the tricky part (relatively so I guess)...
Pull the hub assembly with the half shaft toward you and away from the differential unitl the inner u-joint clears the yolk, then lower it. Then while holding the hub assembly out pull the half shaft inward until it is clear of the hub bearing. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING!! but be firm. Be careful with the brake lines, wires, and cables.
The washer goes against the shoulder of the splined shaft.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
For those who want to do the u-joints while the shaft is out...
I have done this to my car many times now and know it works well. I believe the book has you remove more things to get in there and you may choose to if you wish. It takes me about an hour or less per side but plan on a day if you are not experienced and have to borrow most of the tools.
10-23-2007, 11:17 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have a pop that some think is the C-beam
Do you have the part numbers?
10-24-2007, 01:20 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
Probably the common clicking, knocking from the rear spindle area.
http://www.artscorvetteparts.com/pro...3-59f3634e182b
Last edited by 86PACER; 09-24-2009 at 03:08 PM.
10-24-2007, 08:49 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What was the noise?
upon examining the shoulder of the axle shaft I could see where it was galling against the bearing. This all despite all the torque that goes on the axle nut.
It seemed like a real bad problem but it was just the tension between the shoulder of the shaft and the bearing giving way. The washers fixed it.
The sound heard and clunk felt at the rear of my car was caused by two things.
First, the splines on the shaft and in the hub are not perfect fit. So there are a couple of degrees of play where the splined shaft engages the hub bearing.
Secondly, when the axle nut is tightened it causes tension between the shoulder of the axle yolk and the hub bearing. This tension can hold some of the torque from the engine. Once the torque from the engine exceeds the tension of the yolk shoulder the yolk rotates until the splines engage the splines of the hub bearing. When this happens a clicking sound is heard by the driver, occupant, and any near passers-by. This makes the car seem like an old piece of junk.
The teflon coated washers prevents the tension from building between the yolk shoulder and hub bearing and allowing then to slip gently and silently. Easy fix for an annoying and seemingly bad problem.
10-24-2007, 10:26 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '06
You made the problem more difficult than it had to be
You dont have to remove the hub
A torx with an extension will slide in from behind to remove the 3 bearing bolts
This is how I did it (also how it was written up here just enable archived threads and if you have the June issue of Corvette Magazine look in the letters section for th e same thing)
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove spindle nut (the big one in the middle) I found it easiest to do this with the parking brake on
3. Remove caliper and rotor
4. Remove 3 torx bolts from behind that hold the bearing assy on(I used a 6 in extension)
5 when you remove the bearing there it is. I put a little synthetic axle grease on so it would last longer and also lubed up the spline
No need to remove springs or the whole hub assy
Just make sure you put the flared flange facing the correct way (to the inside I believe)
You dont have to remove the hub
A torx with an extension will slide in from behind to remove the 3 bearing bolts
This is how I did it (also how it was written up here just enable archived threads and if you have the June issue of Corvette Magazine look in the letters section for th e same thing)
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove spindle nut (the big one in the middle) I found it easiest to do this with the parking brake on
3. Remove caliper and rotor
4. Remove 3 torx bolts from behind that hold the bearing assy on(I used a 6 in extension)
5 when you remove the bearing there it is. I put a little synthetic axle grease on so it would last longer and also lubed up the spline
No need to remove springs or the whole hub assy
Just make sure you put the flared flange facing the correct way (to the inside I believe)
10-24-2007, 10:39 AM
#11
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '06
BTW part # is 14076924 and is about $7 from a dealer
Cheapest part I ever got from a stealership
The torx is a T55 and I used a 3/8 drive with a 6 in extension from behind
There are 3 of them I used a 3/8 breaker bar about 18in long to loosen them
The first one was a 45 min job the second (I did both) was about 20 min
Cheapest part I ever got from a stealership
The torx is a T55 and I used a 3/8 drive with a 6 in extension from behind
There are 3 of them I used a 3/8 breaker bar about 18in long to loosen them
The first one was a 45 min job the second (I did both) was about 20 min
Last edited by 94ZR1; 10-24-2007 at 10:44 AM.
10-24-2007, 12:10 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 94ZR1
You dont have to remove the hub
Matt
10-24-2007, 04:12 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
Thanks quickcat, you did an excellent write up and a great service to many of us with the same problem. I ordered new washers this morning right after I read this thread.
10-24-2007, 10:53 PM
#15
Yeap, me too. Props. I think my clicking noise is exactly what you described. This is going to save me from a huge headache.
10-26-2007, 12:56 PM
#17
Safety Car
Uh.... See below.
However... if you read the whole thread and didn't get it... see below yet:
The sound heard and clunk felt at the rear of my car was caused by two things.
First, the splines on the shaft and in the hub are not perfect fit. So there are a couple of degrees of play where the splined shaft engages the hub bearing.
Secondly, when the axle nut is tightened it causes tension between the shoulder of the axle yolk and the hub bearing. This tension can hold some of the torque from the engine. Once the torque from the engine exceeds the tension of the yolk shoulder the yolk rotates until the splines engage the splines of the hub bearing. When this happens a clicking sound is heard by the driver, occupant, and any near passers-by. This makes the car seem like an old piece of junk.
The teflon coated washers prevents the tension from building between the yolk shoulder and hub bearing and allowing then to slip gently and silently. Easy fix for an annoying and seemingly bad problem.
However... if you read the whole thread and didn't get it... see below yet:
The sound heard and clunk felt at the rear of my car was caused by two things.
First, the splines on the shaft and in the hub are not perfect fit. So there are a couple of degrees of play where the splined shaft engages the hub bearing.
Secondly, when the axle nut is tightened it causes tension between the shoulder of the axle yolk and the hub bearing. This tension can hold some of the torque from the engine. Once the torque from the engine exceeds the tension of the yolk shoulder the yolk rotates until the splines engage the splines of the hub bearing. When this happens a clicking sound is heard by the driver, occupant, and any near passers-by. This makes the car seem like an old piece of junk.
The teflon coated washers prevents the tension from building between the yolk shoulder and hub bearing and allowing then to slip gently and silently. Easy fix for an annoying and seemingly bad problem.
I will replace my washers when I do my u-joints this week.
10-26-2007, 08:53 PM
#20
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Nice write up, but I don't see how the washer is the cure. The way I see it 
, is the washer is there so there is no metal to metal contact. Instead of the shoulder of stub and face of bearing unit taking the wear from friction caused by backlash, the washer is there taking the wear and is serviceable(replace).
As you say, the backlash is still there. Lubing the splines and more torque on the axle nut is the answer for the click.
Flame suit on
, is the washer is there so there is no metal to metal contact. Instead of the shoulder of stub and face of bearing unit taking the wear from friction caused by backlash, the washer is there taking the wear and is serviceable(replace).As you say, the backlash is still there. Lubing the splines and more torque on the axle nut is the answer for the click.
Flame suit on