stick105

Ok I think I got it solved! Thanks to all that helped me. This is what I did. I disconnected the positive cable from the battery terminal and jumped a VOM set on 20m DCA with my red lead plugged into the A plug and the black lead set into the COM plug on my meter. I read a .o3amp until the curtisy lights timed out and went off and then the meter read .01amp. The digital dash is the only electrical component missing. I think these readings are below the 50 mill. amps required. CFI and JFB your input would be well appriciated. And thanks for all you advice guys.

I hope I did this correctly. I have been celebrating all afternoon!!!

LouisvilleLT4

So your problem is solved? Or you just found out that you have a leak? If so this is the way you track down an amperage leak:

Watch amps at the battery as you mentioned. If there's a little amperage that won't stop flowing, connect your battery back up, and then pull the fuses in the engine bay one at a time, using the VOM to bypass the fuse and read the amps there. Once you've found out which fuse is causing the amps to flow, go to the more specific fuses downstream of it in the interior fusebox and do the same thing. The FSM's wiring diagrams really help for this, especially in figuring out what parts are powered by what fuse.

CFI-EFI

It sounds as though the problem may be solved. What did you do to fix it? I am suspicious of that .03 amp reading with the courtesy lights on. They draw more amperage than that. I'm concerned about your test methods and/or readings.

RACE ON!!!

LouisvilleLT4

I think my glovebox lamp drew 3 amps alone. It was the source of my amperage leak when I did this (I didn't know it was on a tilt-based switch and I had it stored upside down)

RACE ON!!!

stick105

thanks for the replys guys. I found 7 wires that were frayed under the drivers side hush panel that went into the door. I soldered the wires and tested the amp leak like CFI and jfb recomended. The blue point meter I have measured .03 amps with the timed interior lights and underhood lights on. After the lights went off I was drawing .01 amps. My dash cluster is not in the car so that may add more draw. I used my Fluke meter to confirm my test and it measured .0375amps with both interior timed lights and underhood lights and .0175 amps with just the underhood lights. Thank you guys for all the advice. Again, I hope I got it this time.

jfb

I think you aren't reading your ammeter correctly. The courtesy lights draw a heck of a lot more current than .03 amps when they are on. You have the test leads plugged in correctly to measure current, but some ammeters require you to multiply the reading by 10 or 100 when you use the separate jack for amps. Most ammeters allow measurement up to 100 milliamps (.1 amps) using the jacks meant for volts and ohms. Read your multimeter instruction book, the section on measuring amps with the test probe plugged into the AMP terminal.
What model Fluke meter do you have?

stick105

jfb, my mistake. my backup was a ideal not fluke both are yellow. I will try to find my book for the blue-point. If I am drawing .03a and multiply it by 10, I would still be within the 50 milli amps wouldn't I?

stick105

jfb please be patient with me. I switched my meter to the red lead into the mAuA (milliamp) port and my dial to the 20mDCA setting and when the lights went off and the hood closed I drew 14.75 milliamp. I opened the hood and the metered spiked. If I read this thing correctly I am drawing under 15 milliamps at rest. Do you agree?

jfb

Now I agree with you! 50 milliamps is .05 amps and your meter responded as I would expect when you open the hood. Check that you didnt blow out a protective fuse when you pinned your meter.

stick105

ALRIGHT!!! jfb thank you! my meter and car are a-ok. at 14 milliamps I can rest! I should get a fresh dash cluster back this week and I will recheck for draw. Thanks for your help!!!

coupeguy2001

you still have a problem........you should only be drawing miliampswith the doors shut after 2 minutes.
the courtesy lamps should draw.75 amps each. if 4 are burning, that's 3 amps. if all 6 are burning, that's 4.5 amps.
2 under the dash, 2 in the doors, and 2 in the halo. verts have the ones in the mirror.
who knows what else operates with the door open. the flashing security lamp and associated electronic circuitry as well. The vats is armed, ready to be activated.

jfb

He does not have a problem! My 87 draws 27 ma. and I have my cluster in place and I have no trouble with the battery discharging. I suspect when stick105 gets his cluster in he will measure about 27 ma. of leakage current. GM says leakage must not be larger than 50 ma.

stick105

When I get the cluster in I will take another reading and post in this thread. Thanks again for your help jfb!

stick105

OK. I got the cluster in and I am drawing between the 17.70's and 19.30's milliamps. It fluctuates arround there. I left the meter hooked up for a half hour or so. I do believe I figured out my drain problem. Thank you all.

John (stick105)

fnsblum

I have only had my Vette a week and learned the hard way that the interior lights will drain a fully charged battery in less that 12 hours. My Duramax will shut everything that I forget off in 20 minutes. Later! Frank

Hotred94

I replaced several of my interior lights with LEDs to help reduce the drain problem. It does make a difference.

stick105

Happy Thanksgiving Guys!!!