new 4 bolt roller engine project
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LQQK- new 4 bolt roller engine project started now...
hi guys,
well i have now started my collection of hp parts for my 2008 1991 L98 vette engine project.
i have just placed a very nice order with www.cnc-motorsports.com for alot of the parts.
first of all i brought a late model 4 bolt roller block.
high performance melling 10550 oil pump
melling 8 " deep oil pick up tube/screeen
oil pan baffle plate
Lokar billet flexible oil dip stick up grade
arp sbc oil pump drive shaft
arp pump shaft stud
arp 4 bolt mains stud kit
arp pro series flywheel bolt kit
arp oil pan bolt kit
arp balancer bolt kit
arp cam bolt kit
arp high performance head stud kit
chevy dura bond high performance heavy duty cam bearing kit
chev power plus 6" light weight harmonic damper ,5.8 lb weight
brass freeze plug kit
eagle 6" esp 3-d h beam "feather weight" forged 4340 rods
eagle 3.75 " esp 4340 forged "light weight "stroker crank shaft
clevite 77 rod and big end main heavy duty high performance ,large journals bearing kit
victor reinz quality engine build gasket set
corteco brand perfromance race head gasket set ,.029" thickness
probe brand srs Molculite 10.91.1 flat top -short skirt forged 4340 " light weight" pistons with 4.060 " bore size
perfect circle brand plasma moly steel pro racing low tension ring set
danny bee brand block protector bearing/plate
cam locking plate kit
cam shaft bushing kit
oil gallery screen kit
and they are doing the engine internal balance rotating for me.
already i have so far ,
comp cam hydraulic roller 230/236 duration @ .50 " cam/280/288 adavanced duration/580 lift and 112 degree lobe seperation
comp cam 1.6 ratio pro magnum roller rockers
comp cam roller lifters,
cut 8 " naca hood air ducts along with a/o engineering forced air filter scoop thru front bumper bar into engine bay.
180 degree robert shaw/emp modified/balanced thermo stat with 195 degree low temp fan switch.
long tube 1/3/4" diameter headers,high flow cats,x-pipe,2.5 " True duel mandrel bend exhaust pipes with magnaflow rear mufflers
aeromtoive hp adjutable fuel regulator
good year gator back performance serpentine belt
under drive pulley kit
deleted a/c,deleted air pump
comp cam one piece forged push rods,
22 lb lighter weight steel single mass flywheel
cloyes true roller double row timing chain/sprocket kit
csr hp electric water pump
8 throttle body cross ram intake manifold which has 8 x 50 mm diameter throttle bodies
heltech e6x after market fully tuneable ecm set up
msd remote coil and small billet distributor
ngk irrdium spark plugs and plug indexing washer kit
10 mm performance spark plug leads
8 x uni filter performance air filter sponge kit
walbro 255 l/per hour hp fuel pump
k&n oil filter and full synthetic oil
so next years parts i still need to buy are
Air flow research ported 210 cc inatke / 64 cc combustion comp Elimnator heads,
high performance clutch
heated oxygen sensor
large 7 quart oil pan kit
50 lb injectors
either a 3.73 or 3.90 reear ratio diff to go with my zf 6 speed box !!
and finally head stud girdle and lower block girdle and that should see me thru guys.
i would of liked too of brought a light weight 3.875 " stroker crank but they didnt have one so i settled for the 3.75 instead but with light weight components which you cant go wrong !!
for a nice light weight 388 c.i fast engine package that should at least produce 450 rear wheel screaming horsepower hopefully...
any way thanks for looking
merry christmas guys
cheers
shae
well i have now started my collection of hp parts for my 2008 1991 L98 vette engine project.
i have just placed a very nice order with www.cnc-motorsports.com for alot of the parts.
first of all i brought a late model 4 bolt roller block.
high performance melling 10550 oil pump
melling 8 " deep oil pick up tube/screeen
oil pan baffle plate
Lokar billet flexible oil dip stick up grade
arp sbc oil pump drive shaft
arp pump shaft stud
arp 4 bolt mains stud kit
arp pro series flywheel bolt kit
arp oil pan bolt kit
arp balancer bolt kit
arp cam bolt kit
arp high performance head stud kit
chevy dura bond high performance heavy duty cam bearing kit
chev power plus 6" light weight harmonic damper ,5.8 lb weight
brass freeze plug kit
eagle 6" esp 3-d h beam "feather weight" forged 4340 rods
eagle 3.75 " esp 4340 forged "light weight "stroker crank shaft
clevite 77 rod and big end main heavy duty high performance ,large journals bearing kit
victor reinz quality engine build gasket set
corteco brand perfromance race head gasket set ,.029" thickness
probe brand srs Molculite 10.91.1 flat top -short skirt forged 4340 " light weight" pistons with 4.060 " bore size
perfect circle brand plasma moly steel pro racing low tension ring set
danny bee brand block protector bearing/plate
cam locking plate kit
cam shaft bushing kit
oil gallery screen kit
and they are doing the engine internal balance rotating for me.
already i have so far ,
comp cam hydraulic roller 230/236 duration @ .50 " cam/280/288 adavanced duration/580 lift and 112 degree lobe seperation
comp cam 1.6 ratio pro magnum roller rockers
comp cam roller lifters,
cut 8 " naca hood air ducts along with a/o engineering forced air filter scoop thru front bumper bar into engine bay.
180 degree robert shaw/emp modified/balanced thermo stat with 195 degree low temp fan switch.
long tube 1/3/4" diameter headers,high flow cats,x-pipe,2.5 " True duel mandrel bend exhaust pipes with magnaflow rear mufflers
aeromtoive hp adjutable fuel regulator
good year gator back performance serpentine belt
under drive pulley kit
deleted a/c,deleted air pump
comp cam one piece forged push rods,
22 lb lighter weight steel single mass flywheel
cloyes true roller double row timing chain/sprocket kit
csr hp electric water pump
8 throttle body cross ram intake manifold which has 8 x 50 mm diameter throttle bodies
heltech e6x after market fully tuneable ecm set up
msd remote coil and small billet distributor
ngk irrdium spark plugs and plug indexing washer kit
10 mm performance spark plug leads
8 x uni filter performance air filter sponge kit
walbro 255 l/per hour hp fuel pump
k&n oil filter and full synthetic oil
so next years parts i still need to buy are
Air flow research ported 210 cc inatke / 64 cc combustion comp Elimnator heads,
high performance clutch
heated oxygen sensor
large 7 quart oil pan kit
50 lb injectors
either a 3.73 or 3.90 reear ratio diff to go with my zf 6 speed box !!
and finally head stud girdle and lower block girdle and that should see me thru guys.
i would of liked too of brought a light weight 3.875 " stroker crank but they didnt have one so i settled for the 3.75 instead but with light weight components which you cant go wrong !!
for a nice light weight 388 c.i fast engine package that should at least produce 450 rear wheel screaming horsepower hopefully...
any way thanks for looking
merry christmas guys
cheers
shae
Last edited by emo-vet; 12-23-2007 at 03:01 AM.
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#4
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '05
You are better off with a stock weight crank for the street, anyway. Lightening the rest is good IMO.
You could get by with some 195 Comp Elims, too if you wanted.
You could get by with some 195 Comp Elims, too if you wanted.
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hi there guys,
thanks for your replies.
yeah i was thinking about going 195 afr heads ,but bosch vette reackons the way the 8 t/b intake breathes as in breathers very well, might as well go larger heads for that extra breathing capacity.
r.e low tension oil rings, yeah i heard some thing along those lines as well,but i have had a few reputable guys not say any thing bad about them so i left them as they were i guess.
try and see.
but thre light parts should work real nice and rev like theres no tomorrow.
but i would think i should at least gain 450 rear wheel or more plus horsepower for sure would be real nice.
infact some guys reackon i will sh*it my pants with this set up.
cant wait to se that happening,lol.
r.e the lt1 version come out well they make these 8 t/b intakes for all types of chev motors actually guys.
any way cheers for your replies.
regards
shae
#8
Drifting
I would't have gone with .060 over bore if I could avoid it. .030 leaves stronger cylinder walls, and allows for a rebuild later on. Other than that, It sounds like you've got some good parts to work with. Luck to you on your project.
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hi curveit,
how are ya!
yeah i would of liked to only have to only bore block out to .030 " myself ,but the 4 " standard bores in this second hand block were fairly worn and will have to be taken out .060 " that is .30 " each side of bore that is to clean up very nice.
the main problem is there was a wear lip made at the top of each bore unfortunelty.
but on these blocks they can take .060 " ok and still be alright.
especially running full synthetic oil and high flow electric water pump there to keep things running cool.
but yeah then this will be the last time of boring for this block and then i will have to convert my 2 bolt roller block in to 4 bolt main splayed caps engine for my next engine.
buy yep im pretty happy with the list of parts i have chosen and brought.
cheers mate
shae
how are ya!
yeah i would of liked to only have to only bore block out to .030 " myself ,but the 4 " standard bores in this second hand block were fairly worn and will have to be taken out .060 " that is .30 " each side of bore that is to clean up very nice.
the main problem is there was a wear lip made at the top of each bore unfortunelty.
but on these blocks they can take .060 " ok and still be alright.
especially running full synthetic oil and high flow electric water pump there to keep things running cool.
but yeah then this will be the last time of boring for this block and then i will have to convert my 2 bolt roller block in to 4 bolt main splayed caps engine for my next engine.
buy yep im pretty happy with the list of parts i have chosen and brought.
cheers mate
shae
#12
Drifting
hi curveit,
how are ya!
yeah i would of liked to only have to only bore block out to .030 " myself ,but the 4 " standard bores in this second hand block were fairly worn and will have to be taken out .060 " that is .30 " each side of bore that is to clean up very nice.
the main problem is there was a wear lip made at the top of each bore unfortunelty.
but on these blocks they can take .060 " ok and still be alright.
especially running full synthetic oil and high flow electric water pump there to keep things running cool.
but yeah then this will be the last time of boring for this block and then i will have to convert my 2 bolt roller block in to 4 bolt main splayed caps engine for my next engine.
buy yep im pretty happy with the list of parts i have chosen and brought.
cheers mate
shae
how are ya!
yeah i would of liked to only have to only bore block out to .030 " myself ,but the 4 " standard bores in this second hand block were fairly worn and will have to be taken out .060 " that is .30 " each side of bore that is to clean up very nice.
the main problem is there was a wear lip made at the top of each bore unfortunelty.
but on these blocks they can take .060 " ok and still be alright.
especially running full synthetic oil and high flow electric water pump there to keep things running cool.
but yeah then this will be the last time of boring for this block and then i will have to convert my 2 bolt roller block in to 4 bolt main splayed caps engine for my next engine.
buy yep im pretty happy with the list of parts i have chosen and brought.
cheers mate
shae
#14
hi curveit,
how are ya!
yeah i would of liked to only have to only bore block out to .030 " myself ,but the 4 " standard bores in this second hand block were fairly worn and will have to be taken out .060 " that is .30 " each side of bore that is to clean up very nice.
the main problem is there was a wear lip made at the top of each bore unfortunelty.
but on these blocks they can take .060 " ok and still be alright.
especially running full synthetic oil and high flow electric water pump there to keep things running cool.
but yeah then this will be the last time of boring for this block and then i will have to convert my 2 bolt roller block in to 4 bolt main splayed caps engine for my next engine.
buy yep im pretty happy with the list of parts i have chosen and brought.
cheers mate
shae
how are ya!
yeah i would of liked to only have to only bore block out to .030 " myself ,but the 4 " standard bores in this second hand block were fairly worn and will have to be taken out .060 " that is .30 " each side of bore that is to clean up very nice.
the main problem is there was a wear lip made at the top of each bore unfortunelty.
but on these blocks they can take .060 " ok and still be alright.
especially running full synthetic oil and high flow electric water pump there to keep things running cool.
but yeah then this will be the last time of boring for this block and then i will have to convert my 2 bolt roller block in to 4 bolt main splayed caps engine for my next engine.
buy yep im pretty happy with the list of parts i have chosen and brought.
cheers mate
shae
Low tension rings on a street motor is an almost 100% problematic.
Sounds like your mind is made up. Hopefully the dice roll in your favor.
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hi guys,
how are ya!
ok im listening to what you are saying and i will exchange low tension oil rings for some thing else as parts havent been sent of yet thanks pete k,next i found out that flywheel is neutral balanced thanks rod and i will get block sonic tested before i go ahead with the block!
so r.e sonic testing, do you get this tested after the bores are bored and honed or before work is stared please ???
can any one please reccomend any race quality plasma moly rings set then please for me to buy ??
cheers
shae
how are ya!
ok im listening to what you are saying and i will exchange low tension oil rings for some thing else as parts havent been sent of yet thanks pete k,next i found out that flywheel is neutral balanced thanks rod and i will get block sonic tested before i go ahead with the block!
so r.e sonic testing, do you get this tested after the bores are bored and honed or before work is stared please ???
can any one please reccomend any race quality plasma moly rings set then please for me to buy ??
cheers
shae
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i know,im looking so forward to hearing,driving,seeing dyno results as well mate.
so any rough idea on what this motor might produce/put out in rear wheel horsepower guys please ???
450 rwhp is a rough guess and thats what boschvettes 8 t/b intake 11:1.0 comp motor puts out at rear wheels.
cheers
shae
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Need Help On Which Rings To Buy On Your Advise Given ??
hi guys,
i need some quick help please now on your new advise given on not to buy" ultra low tension " piston rings as they are no good.
so do i buy then please?
they need top be good quality race rings please.
here is a couple of brand names in quality,
total seal
hastings
mahle
perfect circle
then there is diffrent types in standard tension
gapless rings = i heard can break easily when filing down on piston and just a pain in the *** !!
high tension
and ultra low tension rings = no good,too much oil consumption.
remember that i need them to be 4.060 " bore size please with gap size to suit pistons of 1.2,1.5,3.0 mm.
any ideas or help,links please ??
thanks
shae
i need some quick help please now on your new advise given on not to buy" ultra low tension " piston rings as they are no good.
so do i buy then please?
they need top be good quality race rings please.
here is a couple of brand names in quality,
total seal
hastings
mahle
perfect circle
then there is diffrent types in standard tension
gapless rings = i heard can break easily when filing down on piston and just a pain in the *** !!
high tension
and ultra low tension rings = no good,too much oil consumption.
remember that i need them to be 4.060 " bore size please with gap size to suit pistons of 1.2,1.5,3.0 mm.
any ideas or help,links please ??
thanks
shae
#20
All of the brands you list make quality piston rings. I am a Hastings fan, but only because I have used them without issues many dozens of times.
Standard tension, moly rings are all you need. Here in the us, they are a $40 ring set.
What does your engine builder prefer? His opinion is the most important.
When I am building one, and the customer brings me a printout of internet recommended parts, I usually show him the door. Be sure the builder is on the same page as you.
Standard tension, moly rings are all you need. Here in the us, they are a $40 ring set.
What does your engine builder prefer? His opinion is the most important.
When I am building one, and the customer brings me a printout of internet recommended parts, I usually show him the door. Be sure the builder is on the same page as you.