emo-vet

hi guys,
i have brought a new style melling # 10550 high volume oil pump.
i also by mistake appear to of brought the wrong darn oil pick up screen/tube.
i brought part # 12559.
is this the wrong tube please ??
sure does look like it to me, the bolt holes distance are diffrent.
so which pick up tube/screen do i need then to suit m-10550 oil pump please ??
hope so one can help please soon
cheers
shae

rodj

what oil pan depth you using?

emo-vet

hi rod,
thanks for the reply.
im going to buy a 7 quart large oil pan that would proberely around 7-8" deep i guess.
still not sure what brand to buy yet.
cheers
shae

Slalom4me

The following Melling Screen Assemblies are intended for use with
Melling pumps that have a 3/4" bolt-on inlet.

• 12557 USE W/7" DEEP STOCK TYPE PAN. MESH IS IN STOCK
  LOCATION USE W/7" DEEP STOCK TYPE PAN. NOTE:
  CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE BOLTS AND HOLES ALLOWS 3/16
  TO 1/4" ADJUSTMENT UP OR DOWN TO CUSTOM FIT YOUR
  APPLICATION. BOLT ON SCREEN FOR 10555 PUMP.
• 12558 USE WITH 7 1/2" DEEP STOCK TYPE PAN. NOTE: CLEARANCE
  BETWEEN THE BOLTS AND HOLES ALLOWS 3/16 TO 1/4"
  ADJUSTMENT UP OR DOWN TO CUSTOM FIT YOUR
  APPLICATION.
• 12559 USE WITH 8" DEEP STOCK TYPE PAN. NOTE: CLEARANCE
  BETWEEN THE BOLTS AND HOLES ALLOWS 3/16 TO 1/4"
  ADJUSTMENT UP OR DOWN TO CUSTOM FIT YOUR
  APPLICATION.

Be aware that these screens are unlikely to be compatible with the
baffles in a Canton RR pan - due diligence is suggested. I recommend
deciding what pan depth will be used before settling on a screen
assembly.

Melling's catalog describes the 10550 pump as having a 5/8" press-in
inlet. The 10555 is described as having a 3/4" bolt-on inlet and also
has the characteristic of 25% volume increase, similar to the 10550
(if that's what you really want/need)

Also, the catalog states that a lower pressure yellow spring is included
with several of the pumps. I have yet to hear from someone who has
received this spring in the oil pump package.

.

emo-vet

hi slalom,
how are ya!
thanks mate for your reply and help/info.
jegs also list in there catologue to use #12559 that i have to suit the # m-10555 hp 25% oil pump with 8" deep pan, which i will get soon,
but the bolt holes dont line up though on it.
the bolt holes on the oil pan pick up tube are not as wide as the oil pump bolt holes!
why is that ?
what do i do then?
im confused how it bolts up then now ??
can i still use the # 12559 then?
my m-10555 pump only has two bolt holes looking from the top of the pump near where the dist slides into!!
on the side near the bottom there is the 3/4" hole i belive ,but no install holes what so ever.
any ideas please.
thanks very much
shae

rodj

"I recommend deciding what pan depth will be used before settling on a screen assembly."


The clearance of the screen from the bottom of the pan is the most important factor

Slalom4me

Post #1 - 10550

Post #5 - 10555

Which do you have? These are two different pumps.

I provided a link to the Melling catalog - see pages 3 & 4 for concise
descriptions and a chart listing P/N's and features.

Also, provide more detail about the problem. What are the center-to
-center distances of the holes in the flange on the screen assembly
and what are they on the pump body (10550/10555)

.

Slalom4me

I repeat

I am going to speculate as follows.

• Your pump is a 10550.
  
• It has a 5/8" inlet and there are no bolt holes adjacent to the inlet
  in the side of the bottom plate that bolts to the main pump body.
  
• The holes on the top you are refering to are the holes in the leg
  that extend up ffrom the main pump body and which are intended to
  receive the dowel pins that are fixed in place in the rear main cap.
  
  Altogether, you see four holes in that location: 2 small ones at the
  perimeter (dowel holes), 2 larger ones in the center (one through the
  leg from the gear cavity and the other through to the spot-faced
  backside of the leg where the attachment bolt or stud passes through.)

.

rodj

You need a regular press in pickup to SUIT what ever depth pan you are running.
As you say the 12559 pickup you have is only for 10555 / 10552 pumps with bolt on pickups.

emo-vet

hi guys,
yep i have the 10550 pump.
exactly rite i have found out i have the press in 5/8 "pick up .
so cnc motor sports sent me the wrong pick up ,oh well.
at least i know now what to buy and that it is a press in fit type.
thanks very much for explaining to me slalom and rod.
cheers
shae

staugur

Shae,make sure you weld in that pick up when you do your build.Too many push in's have fallen out and blown engines.

JLeatherman

Always always always spot weld a press-in pickup. It's easy, cheap, and a good insurance against losing a motor.

Also, I have typically shied away from high-volume oil pumps. Be sure that your pan is large enough and your heads drain back properly to avoid the risk of sucking your sump dry. Why exactly are you using a hi-volume pump?

Slalom4me

emo-vet

Check to ensure that the fastener you intend to use to install the pump
is long enough to securely attach the pump to the rear main cap. A
longer-than-stock bolt or stud may be required.

On pumps here, the casting that the bolt/stud must pass through is
approx 35mm (1-3/8"), how thick is the casting at this point on your
M-Select 10550?

Measure
-from the surface where the pump meets the main cap
- through the bolt hole
- to the surface that the bolt head or stud nut tightens against.

.

Slalom4me

emo-vet

About selecting the screen assembly.

As mentioned, it needs to be compatible with the intended oil pan. Not
too close to the pan floor or it is likely to cause pump cavitation &/or
starvation. Not too far or it is likely to draw air under conditions like
high RPM, high accel/decell/lateral maneuvers or low oil levels. Not
located in a position or sized so that it interferes with any baffles,
trap doors or windage screens/trays/scrapers.

If you intend to buy a pan, consider buying a matched pan/pickup
combo.

However you proceed, be sure to understand the requirements before
ordering. Besides having a 5/8" press-in inlet, your 10550 pump has
+25% volume (did I mention that I think this is unnecessary.) The
significance of mentioning the higher volume when ordering the pickup
is that:

• HV is accomplished by making the gears longer,
• this makes the pump body longer,
• this places the inlet hole closer to the floor of the pan,
• this means that the tube for a HV screen assembly ought to be
  shaped differently than the one for a SV versions so that the
  pickup is not too close to the pan bottom.

.

emo-vet

hi there guys,
thanks again for your contined advice and support.
ok well first i shall get pick up pipe spot welded,very good idea,thanks.
secondly i have the spare spring that came with pump in box that i can add back in that is the stock standrd spring .
ok slalom i measured my Arp stud and it is 70 mm long or 2.760" long and then i measured the thickness where the stubolts the pump on and it measures 32.95 mm thick or 1.295 " thick.
is this ok then please ??

so what is the best way to push on pick up pipe onto pump please ??,as it seems it will be a struggle to push the pipe into the pump as the pipe is a nice tight fit!!!
may be lube pump and pipe and put in bench vise ??

but when i order the new 7 quart oil pan i will also buy the matched combo like you said,then i should be ok.
cheers
shae

rodj

Spring changes pressure; not volume.If you have a HV pump ,you can not change back to std volume.
Must remove spring from pickup housing BEFORE welding pickup on otherwise you will kill the spring.

Slalom4me

I believe you have either the ARP 230-7001 (hex) or 230-7002 (12-pt) stud.
I think you will find that if you thread the stud finger-tight to the
bottom of the hole in the main cap, this will only leave 2-3 threads
for the nut (with the washer in place.) The stud won't be long enough
to extend through the nut.

ARP offers their 230-7003 (hex) or 230-7004 (12-pt) studs. These are
about 79.38mm or 3.125".

One way is to chill the pickup and warm (not heat) the pump.
Hold the pump body (not the leg) firmly with soft jaws. Do not tighten
so much as to distort things. Use a soft hammer, possibly wood.

About welding the pickup in place. Some considerations are to avoid
putting too much heat into either the tube or the pump. My vote is
in favour of brazing. Very little material is required, it is not necessary
to go around the full circumference. Removal and disassembly of the
bottom section of the pump is favoured by some - but it is also another
opportunity for something else to go amiss for a novice.

Very likely there are people who get by without the cautions above.
You'll have to rely on your own judgement.

.

emo-vet

hi rod,
how are ya!
is there advanatage to changing springs at all then please ??
also good tip about removing spring first before spot welding pick up pipe on,thanks
shae

emo-vet

hi slalom,
ok mate,thanks for the extra tips and advice.
much appreciated.
notes taken.
cheers
shae

Slalom4me

I am not contradicting Rodj.

I've seen pumps with a small MIG tack weld that hadn't been
disassembled and whose bypass seemed to function normally, but my
vote is against MIG on the steel used for the tube.

I've read of fractures occuring at MIG welds on inlet tubes and every
pickup I've seen has been fabricated by being brazed together.

.