pipe

I just spent 26 bucks for a new Relay installed it and still the Horn won't blow. I took a piece of wire and went from the positive side of the Battery right to the Horn Connector and it worked?????? WHAT'S NEXT Pipe

86PACER

You need the wiring diagram. Perhaps someone with a '90 can oblige.

CFI-EFI

If you have run out of parts to throw at it, you may have to start trouble shooting, like you did when you ran 12 volts directly to the horn. "The horn blows. How about..." Is the fuse good? Is the relay powered? Is the relay getting the proper ground from the horn button? Step by step you have to go through the system until you find the problem.

RACE ON!!!

COPO

remove steering wheel and behind that is a connector that goes in like a tail light bulb that pushes in and turns.....its a common thing that breaks.

Muffin

What CFI said. I just went thru this. My fuse was bad,contact was bad in the horn button and both horns were bad. I found each my following the fsm .

Why did you spend so much on a horn relay? Ecklers is only $15, and you get kissed with the screwing. I bought one at a local parts house and paid less than $5.00.

Ray Quayle

Pipe, use the alarm system (CCM) to do the test. Open the window and driver's door, hit the power lock button to lock the doors, SECURITY light should go from flashing to solid on, shut the door to complete the arming sequence. Then reach in through the open window and unlock then open the door. Horns should sound, if they do, time to look behind the wheel as COPO described or the horn buttons themselves 'cus everything else is workin'. If not, there are two fuses on your '90 for Horn operation. 5 amp LCD Fuse (for Relay Solenoid) and the 15 amp Theft Fuse (for the Horns themselves). You could have tested them while you had the Horn Relay out. The Horn Relay socket has an Orange wire (from the Theft Fuse) and a Red/Black wire (from the LCD Fuse). They are both hot at all times, so by testing each to ground, you'd know if the fuses were good.

schrade

WHAT???

Actually FIND THE PROBLEM??? ARE YOU CRAZY??? It's easier to just buy parts

Didn't you know that?

It's called 'Fully Automatic Assault Wallet'.

Troubleshoot?

SAFETY OFF

pipe

Sorry Guy's for not posting it was a 90. I tried opening the Window locking the door then reaching in and opening it and the Horns did sound! (a little weak) but they sounded. So the problem is somewhere in the Steering wheel? Is it hard to remove the Steering Wheel or the Buttons? Could it also be that connector the guy mentioned? THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP GUY'S Pipe

Ray Quayle

It could absolutely be the connector COPO mentioned. It's the most common problem.

pipe

How hard is it to remove the steering wheel ? Pipe

kmillar

Had the same problem with my '90. The connector in the steering wheel wheel cracked and was not making contact. Follow the FSM instructions and you should be fine. Remember to disconnect the airbag wire (yellow) it's by the bottom of the column. There are quite a few posts out there, procedure wise (search engine). Good Luck, it's not too hard.

88JDO

You can "rent" a steering wheel puller from most auto parts retailers. Give them a deposit, use the tool, get your deposit back.

schrade

Yup.

UN-seize the wheel at the store, bolt it back on with light lube, and you'll be able to pull it off by hand when you get home.

pipe

Ok Guy's a few questions. I got the 2 torx head bolts out behind the wheel and the center pad with the airbag came out. I just have it laying there for now. Do I unhook the Yellow wire at the airbag or at the base of the column? Does it just pull apart or slide off a spade connector? I'll get a steering wheel puller somewhere and once it's off what does the connector look like and what color wires go to it. Seems like it don't show much in the FSM. THANK YOU FOR THE HELP GUY'S IT'S APPRECIATED Pipe

COPO

unhook battery!!!1st!!!!..the connetor is yellow and unplugs. loosing the big bolt that holds the sterring wheel on. if you dont have a puller...take a brass hammer lay on th nut and with the nut even with the threads or a lil higher than the threads...tap with a steel hammer and in most cases it will lossin up..but not all the time depending on how tight a fit it has. have someone pulling on the wheel as you tap. if it does NOT with a few taps you willl have to have a puller or a jerk bar to get it off. when you get the wheel off you will see the connector...push in and turn...dont kno the colors of the wires but its the only thing that will be there. also look down in the slot where the connector is and make sure it is making contact...it is brass and should show marks where the wheel turns. the twist connector should be black an the part it goes in will be white. its fairly simple once you see what is goin on. more than likely the black twist in connector is broken. it has tabs on it like a 1157 twist in bulb and seem to break easy when they get old and fragile from sittin the the hot sun and temps get hot inside .

pipe

THANKS COPO should I unhook the connector at the airbag or at the bottom of the column. Also can you buy this connector new from GM or another parts house? Pipe

COPO

ok if you have the bag laying out 1st check connections on the horn buttons and make sure all are intact and clean with no corrosion. the wires commming on the horn buttons should be black and go into a fuseable link that is maroon in color and then to a tan or brown wire. im just going on memory. shine a light behind it to see if the wire is still going all the way thru if not that wiring harness needs to be replaced. if you follow that wire it will go into the sterring wheel on the left side right above a bolt hole that you use a puller on to remove wheel. also use a test light to see if your gettin a connection.....I think it should be hot all the time but all cars are different...when it grounds out that is what sends power to the horn relay I will have to check up on this just to make sure. you can pull that connector out and it has a spring on the end of it..should twist like a tail light bulb..look down in the hole and you will see the brass ring that it makes contact to. if that has to be replaced if my memory is correct you will need a commpressor that bolts to the sterring shaft and compresses a spring and remove the c-clip that is holding a round metal peice that is rite above the white connector that holds the wire with the spring on the end. if you just want to get the bag out of the way unhook the yellow connector that is on the back of the air bag with the battery unhooked!!!! i am not totally sure about if this type of horn uses a ground to make the contact...i will check on that to be sure. use the test light to see if you have power. start from the horn buttons and work you way down to the brass ring in the coloumn. if the brass ring does not have power you will have to go futher into the column.....but can be check at the bottom of the column with out tearing it all apart 1st.

Livin the Dream

If you have the tilt wheel slop - now while you are digging into the column would be a good time to fix it.

pipe

I have the Steering Wheel off and the White connector that goes down into the column is partially broken. The other half black connector is completely missing so the wire with the spring on it is just sitting in the broken connector. I tried pulling the broken white half of the connector out of the column with a pair of needle nose pliers to no avail. Will I have to go deeper into the column. I see the snap ring at the base of the steering shaft. Will I be able to remove the snap ring without the shaft compressor? What will happen if I don't use the compressor? It looks like it holds in a black round plastic piece with a spring in it. Must this be removed to get to the broken connector? I assume it will come out the bottom. THANK YOU FOR ALL THE HELP GUY'S Pipe

COPO

i sent you a pm the other day with a link to the tool. ill see if i can send it again.

Originally Posted by COPO
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

there is a link to a sterring wheel lock plate remover. it was a quick find for me on hear, but available cheaper at other places for bout 10-15 bucks at most. it installs on the end of the shaft and the nut tightens down to push a spring down under the plate that the wire went thru to allow a c-clip to be removed on the shaft. it is not under a lot of pressure..enuff that you cant press down by hand...well you can but it is hell to do it that way and not worth trying like that. just back the nut off after you remove the clip and unscrew the tool that is on the shaft.. after you get the clip removed and the lock plate off, it should be just screws after that and fairly easy, the hardest part will be running the wires down the colum. you may have to remove the turn signal switch which has a screw behind the lil plastic cover located right behind the turn signal switch. pay close attention when all that comes apart as if it is not installed correct the dimmer switch will not work and will bind up. it should have a fair amount of grease on it and will make a mess...so keep a rag handy. let me kno how things work out or if you need more help.