Oil temp high
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Oil temp high
The oil temp seems to be running hotter than the water temp.
I think it's because the oil filter is by the header.
When it gets hot, the pressure drops.
Any suggestions?
I think it's because the oil filter is by the header.
When it gets hot, the pressure drops.
Any suggestions?
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I'm waiting on my scan tool to come to get exact temps. According to the guage it's over 1/2 way mark. I'll check the numbers.
The oil is castrol synthetic 5-40
I'm thinking of going 20-50 to keep the pressure up.
It gets real hot when I nail it and run it up to 5k or better.
The oil is castrol synthetic 5-40
I'm thinking of going 20-50 to keep the pressure up.
It gets real hot when I nail it and run it up to 5k or better.
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OK, then the issue is when the car gets hot, the pressure drops....I'm going to 20-50.
I don't recall specifically, but it appeared the oil was cooler than the coolant temp.
What do you consider "too high"?
Thanks Pete.
I don't recall specifically, but it appeared the oil was cooler than the coolant temp.
What do you consider "too high"?
Thanks Pete.
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It gets real hot when I nail it and run it up to 5k or better.
Does it still run hot with the new O2 sensor?
BTW, my oil temp usually runs about 10-15deg F above coolant temp in warm weather.
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I believe the new, original, non heated O2 sensor is working and going into closed loop. See other thread.
#8
Drifting
Oil temperature will run lower than coolant for the first period of driving, then higher by 15 to 20 degrees. It should stay 15-20 degrees hotter indefinitely. That seems to be true regardless of thermostat used, fan settings, or whatever.
Oil pressure will drop as temperature increases. It's thinner. You are OK as long as real pressure is about 20 lbs. per 1,000 RPMs. I say "real" because the gauges aren't necessarily correct.
Forget the 5 weight oil if you're in the northern hemisphere now. If you have a 5 weight oil, it has lots of additives to allow it to continue to work effectively as temperatures increase. If those additive (protections) are lost for any reason (regular wear, overheating) then you're running on 5 weight oil. Switch to a 10 or 20 base oil for warmer temperatures.
Remember, lower base weight oil is specified to help achieve high government MPG fleet ratings. Not because it is better for your engine.
Oil pressure will drop as temperature increases. It's thinner. You are OK as long as real pressure is about 20 lbs. per 1,000 RPMs. I say "real" because the gauges aren't necessarily correct.
Forget the 5 weight oil if you're in the northern hemisphere now. If you have a 5 weight oil, it has lots of additives to allow it to continue to work effectively as temperatures increase. If those additive (protections) are lost for any reason (regular wear, overheating) then you're running on 5 weight oil. Switch to a 10 or 20 base oil for warmer temperatures.
Remember, lower base weight oil is specified to help achieve high government MPG fleet ratings. Not because it is better for your engine.
#9
Team Owner
How long does it take for the temps to really climb and what RPM? Is the motor under constant load (high RPM and speeds like a track day)?
One track day I ran at Portland International Raceway got the oil temps in my 87 (I run Mobil-1 5W-30 and the4 stock "oil cooler") up to around 270. But the ambient air temp was 102 and the track surface was around 140. We did 10-lap groups (20 miles) and it took almost 5 laps to get the oil to 270. Once it got there it stayed constant with coolant temps around 205-210. On the cool-down lap, temps dropped to normal (190 coolant and 210 oil) in less than one lap.
With a full synthetic, I would think that oil temps around 250-270 may be a bit on the warm side. Beyond that, it's time for an oil cooler.
If the oil filter is too close to the headers, then maybe try a remote filter??
One track day I ran at Portland International Raceway got the oil temps in my 87 (I run Mobil-1 5W-30 and the4 stock "oil cooler") up to around 270. But the ambient air temp was 102 and the track surface was around 140. We did 10-lap groups (20 miles) and it took almost 5 laps to get the oil to 270. Once it got there it stayed constant with coolant temps around 205-210. On the cool-down lap, temps dropped to normal (190 coolant and 210 oil) in less than one lap.
With a full synthetic, I would think that oil temps around 250-270 may be a bit on the warm side. Beyond that, it's time for an oil cooler.
If the oil filter is too close to the headers, then maybe try a remote filter??
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How long does it take for the temps to really climb and what RPM? Is the motor under constant load (high RPM and speeds like a track day)?
One track day I ran at Portland International Raceway got the oil temps in my 87 (I run Mobil-1 5W-30 and the4 stock "oil cooler") up to around 270. But the ambient air temp was 102 and the track surface was around 140. We did 10-lap groups (20 miles) and it took almost 5 laps to get the oil to 270. Once it got there it stayed constant with coolant temps around 205-210. On the cool-down lap, temps dropped to normal (190 coolant and 210 oil) in less than one lap.
With a full synthetic, I would think that oil temps around 250-270 may be a bit on the warm side. Beyond that, it's time for an oil cooler.
If the oil filter is too close to the headers, then maybe try a remote filter??
One track day I ran at Portland International Raceway got the oil temps in my 87 (I run Mobil-1 5W-30 and the4 stock "oil cooler") up to around 270. But the ambient air temp was 102 and the track surface was around 140. We did 10-lap groups (20 miles) and it took almost 5 laps to get the oil to 270. Once it got there it stayed constant with coolant temps around 205-210. On the cool-down lap, temps dropped to normal (190 coolant and 210 oil) in less than one lap.
With a full synthetic, I would think that oil temps around 250-270 may be a bit on the warm side. Beyond that, it's time for an oil cooler.
If the oil filter is too close to the headers, then maybe try a remote filter??
The temps aren't over 250 as best as I can tell with the stock gauge.
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Oil temperature will run lower than coolant for the first period of driving, then higher by 15 to 20 degrees. It should stay 15-20 degrees hotter indefinitely. That seems to be true regardless of thermostat used, fan settings, or whatever.
Oil pressure will drop as temperature increases. It's thinner. You are OK as long as real pressure is about 20 lbs. per 1,000 RPMs. I say "real" because the gauges aren't necessarily correct.
Forget the 5 weight oil if you're in the northern hemisphere now. If you have a 5 weight oil, it has lots of additives to allow it to continue to work effectively as temperatures increase. If those additive (protections) are lost for any reason (regular wear, overheating) then you're running on 5 weight oil. Switch to a 10 or 20 base oil for warmer temperatures.
Remember, lower base weight oil is specified to help achieve high government MPG fleet ratings. Not because it is better for your engine.
Oil pressure will drop as temperature increases. It's thinner. You are OK as long as real pressure is about 20 lbs. per 1,000 RPMs. I say "real" because the gauges aren't necessarily correct.
Forget the 5 weight oil if you're in the northern hemisphere now. If you have a 5 weight oil, it has lots of additives to allow it to continue to work effectively as temperatures increase. If those additive (protections) are lost for any reason (regular wear, overheating) then you're running on 5 weight oil. Switch to a 10 or 20 base oil for warmer temperatures.
Remember, lower base weight oil is specified to help achieve high government MPG fleet ratings. Not because it is better for your engine.
#12
Le Mans Master
I'm waiting on my scan tool to come to get exact temps. According to the guage it's over 1/2 way mark. I'll check the numbers.
The oil is castrol synthetic 5-40
I'm thinking of going 20-50 to keep the pressure up.
It gets real hot when I nail it and run it up to 5k or better.
The oil is castrol synthetic 5-40
I'm thinking of going 20-50 to keep the pressure up.
It gets real hot when I nail it and run it up to 5k or better.
Of course you can run whatever you want, but the Owner's Manual for my 96 specifically advises against 20w50. 10w40 is the highest recommended viscosity.
Also the Manual says:
The gauges are NOT linear, so don't think that when the gauge needle is at the mid-point on the gauge the temp is half way between full cold and full hot.
Pressure can drop to as low as 6 psi on a fully warmed up engine, in gear, car stopped at idle.
Those are normal.
"real hot" isn't particularly helpful in trying to determine if you have something to be concerned about or not.
I don't know if a scan tool can monitor oil temp. The ones I've used couldn't. Oil temp in the pan is what you'd be concerned about.
In normal conditions, the oil will run hotter than the coolant, as others have already said.
Jake
#13
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,
Of course you can run whatever you want, but the Owner's Manual for my 96 specifically advises against 20w50. 10w40 is the highest recommended viscosity.
Also the Manual says:
The gauges are NOT linear, so don't think that when the gauge needle is at the mid-point on the gauge the temp is half way between full cold and full hot.
Pressure can drop to as low as 6 psi on a fully warmed up engine, in gear, car stopped at idle.
Those are normal.
"real hot" isn't particularly helpful in trying to determine if you have something to be concerned about or not.
I don't know if a scan tool can monitor oil temp. The ones I've used couldn't. Oil temp in the pan is what you'd be concerned about.
In normal conditions, the oil will run hotter than the coolant, as others have already said.
Jake
Of course you can run whatever you want, but the Owner's Manual for my 96 specifically advises against 20w50. 10w40 is the highest recommended viscosity.
Also the Manual says:
The gauges are NOT linear, so don't think that when the gauge needle is at the mid-point on the gauge the temp is half way between full cold and full hot.
Pressure can drop to as low as 6 psi on a fully warmed up engine, in gear, car stopped at idle.
Those are normal.
"real hot" isn't particularly helpful in trying to determine if you have something to be concerned about or not.
I don't know if a scan tool can monitor oil temp. The ones I've used couldn't. Oil temp in the pan is what you'd be concerned about.
In normal conditions, the oil will run hotter than the coolant, as others have already said.
Jake
Is the L98 different since it's a Gen1 small block?
The temp sensor is right after the filter.
#14
Race Director
You drained out 20-50, then put 5-40 in, now your back to 20-50? Are there any leaks?
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#16
Le Mans Master
'
So my thoughts first turn to:
Bad sending unit
Bad oil pump
Partially block oil pump pick-up
Excessive bearing clearances and maybe some others
I'd definitely go with 20W50 just to keep the reading out of the red until the cause could be tracked down.
Isn't your gauge reporting pressure not temperature?
Jake
#17
Check your tune up.
Lean or advanced timing will cause elevated oil temps.
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Wow, that's a different story.
'
So my thoughts first turn to:
Bad sending unit
Bad oil pump
Partially block oil pump pick-up
Excessive bearing clearances and maybe some others
I'd definitely go with 20W50 just to keep the reading out of the red until the cause could be tracked down.
Isn't your gauge reporting pressure not temperature?
Jake
'
So my thoughts first turn to:
Bad sending unit
Bad oil pump
Partially block oil pump pick-up
Excessive bearing clearances and maybe some others
I'd definitely go with 20W50 just to keep the reading out of the red until the cause could be tracked down.
Isn't your gauge reporting pressure not temperature?
Jake
The motor has 30K on it, and is in perfect shape. On bad bearings. Guaranteed.
I had the oil pump out when checking the bearings, put back and triple checked. Oil pump good.
Sending unit? Perhaps. It cold starts at about 60. Then goes down as the motor heats up.
When I turned the oil pump with the primer tool, it went to 60PSI every time. This indicates to me that both the pump and sender are working.
I am going to clean the electrical connector on the sending unit.
There are two gauges, temp and pressure.
Last edited by jsup; 05-17-2008 at 09:05 PM.
#19
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I was getting no reading from the O2 sensor when we got did a scan.
Timing is at 6*.
#20
Race Director
Does your year car not give an exact temp? If not I have an idea, measure the sensor itself. There was a chart if I remember in the service manual that converted volts to a temp, that could help tell you where it actually is for a temp.